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Good idea for a diy stand?

3K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  GraphicGr8s 
#1 ·
I need to build a stand for a 45 gallon long tank I have.
I found plans for a shelf unit that I think may work for me and I wonder what you all might think about it.

http://ana-white.com/2012/05/plans/rustic-x-console
My thoughts on it:
It is my understanding that the tank is supported almost entirely on the four corners so the fact the the horizontal boards aren't sitting on top of the 2x4's shouldnt matter, right?
Would I require an 'X' across the back too?
Do you think that the top planks would tend to warp enough to give me a hassle? (The boards in a pic on the website seem to look a little bowed)
Would putting a piece of 3/4" plywood under them stop that? mdf board?
 
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#2 ·
Thats a good design to work off of. For a 45 long you shouldn't need extra x-braces in the back. Your biggest concern will be to make absolutely sure the top is flat and level so you don't break any of the seams in your tank. It wouldn't hurt to put a nice piece of plywood on top to provide a flat level surface for the tank to sit on.
 
#5 ·
If it's a glass tank with a rim the top won't matter a hill of beans. The tank only sits on the edges. Putting a nice piece of plywood will only appease your own mind. The tank won't be resting on any part except the edges. You don't even need a top at all. Just 2 x 3 framework will take care of it just fine. If he doesn't put a skin on it I would wholeheartedly recommend X bracing to help prevent racking. 2 x 4 legs are more than adequate. Don't use pressure treated on any part of it.
 
#3 ·
Looks like it will be sufficient, but if you're concerned, you can add corner reinforcement brackets. Or go overboard & use 4x4 fence posts on the 4 corners.

Not sure if you want to leave shelves below completely open, because it wouldn't give you any place to hide the equipment/wires.
 
#4 ·
I would use the middle shelf on only half the unit, and leave the other bay larger, more open for canister filter, CO2 or other large things.

2 x 4 is plenty strong enough. No need to go to 4 x 4 in the corners.

X across the back, or even a sheet of plywood as a shear panel would be a very good idea.

I also would not use the 2 x 6 top, 3/4" plywood would be very strong, or add perhaps 1/2" or thinner plywood on top of the 2 x 6 for a more uniform surface. Even a sheet of Styrofoam might be enough if the top was well made, very uniform.

Most of my stands are 2 x 4 on edge, boxes that exactly fit the bottom rim of the tank. Most of my tanks are glass tanks designed to sit on their rim.
Sit those boxes on concrete blocks. Add 1/2" Styrofoam to even out any irregularities in the wood.
My acrylic tanks are fully supported. I used manufactured stands and sheets of Styrofoam for them.
 
#10 ·
People use glue, pocket joinery, and straps all the time to make box lids, table tops, simple barn-style doors, whatever, without any breadboard edges. My picnic table sat out in the yard for ten years, and none of the boards ever warped or cupped.

evilhorde, IMO you are overthinking it a little. Unless your lumber is not all the way dried for some reason, you should not develop any spots that would be high enough to be fatal to the tank.
 
#11 ·
People use glue, pocket joinery, and straps all the time to make box lids, table tops, simple barn-style doors, whatever, without any breadboard edges. My picnic table sat out in the yard for ten years, and none of the boards ever warped or cupped.

evilhorde, IMO you are overthinking it a little. Unless your lumber is not all the way dried for some reason, you should not develop any spots that would be high enough to be fatal to the tank.
Was it pressure treated lumber? Because it sure wasn't the joinery that kept it from cupping. And it's not a "new" problem. It's been happening ever since people made stuff from wood.

I never said that everything needed breadboard edges. It is however a tried and true technique to hide wood movement. There are others of course.
And in some places you don't need to hide the problem. Like on a picnic table. Or barn doors. But have you ever noticed that a solid wood top on a table (like a dining room table) is never glued down. And in fact the screws that attach it are in elongated holes? Or in clips in grooves? That's to account for wood movement.
Dry wood to start is great. But it needs to be acclimated before the first cut is made. And it should be acclimated again after the last is made before it's glued up. Especially if it's been face planed.

If a piece is kept in a home with a relatively consistent moisture level than any warping would be minimal any way.
 
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