i'm so proud ... - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-28-2004, 12:18 AM
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Ah...free floating. Good.

BTW, what's with the little tiny face or mask at the bottom of the lower picture? Or am I just hallucinat'n?

29 gal planted tank, 30" FW Aqualights w/ 1x 65W 6700K CF & 1x 55W 9325K CF, 20-lb CO2 w/ Milwaukee SMS122 controller, reverse-flow UGF (bah!), gravel substrate (also bah!), 4 Praecox, 3 Ottocats, 1 SAE, 1 Bristlenose cat, 2-3 C. japonica, 5 Red Cherry Shrimp, & too many detestable pond snails!!!
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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-28-2004, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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i'll take some of whatever you ate for dinner

quintin
--29 gallon--
55w cf, pressurized co2, cheesy hob, layered laterite/peat/profile/pea gravel substrate
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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-01-2004, 11:22 AM
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This may be acardinal sin.. I am no expert on planted aquariums.

However i found an INSTANT cure for green water.

Any water clarifying agent.. such as Acurel F, when used as directed, will quickly clump up the algae, wich will then be sucked into your filter.

A few hours later you can clean your filter, and poof, problem solved.


If there is anything wrong with this approach, I'd like to know, because it worked wonders for me, didn't kill any fish, and a month later the plants are still doing well....

The green water never came back either...
Now if i could ust figure out how to get rid of this brown algae!!!
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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-01-2004, 12:46 PM
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Hello everyone,

I am new to this forum and the only plants that I grow in my tanks are a couple of swords and some grass in my 10 gallon turtle tank, and a sword in a 1.5 gallon Rosey Red minnow tank. I also have a 300 gallon Koi Rubbermaid stock tank pond outside and a 20 gal half whiskey barrel water garden.

But I am very interested in making my 10 gallon turtle tank into a planted tank when I move my turtle to a much larger tank. I don't have specific lighting, gravel, fertilizers or CO2 system but will be looking at it differently since coming to this forum. I do have a 10 Watt coil fluorescent over my 1.5 gal and the same 10 watt coil fluorescent over the plant section of my 10 gal along with a 20 watt basking light on the other end for the turtle...so at the present, the plants in both tanks seem to be doing well in both.

I wanted to introduce myself but I also wanted to comment on the green water problems. I go along with all those that say when you get green water...leave the tank alone with very minimal partical water changes if needed, during the course of having green water. Experiments have shown that conducting water changes over 50% will actually cause the problem to get worse. Here is a link to a project that was conducted by a Koi enthusiast dealing with pond water...but same principle would apply to tank/aquarium water.

http://www.koiclubsandiego.org/GRENH2O.html

Charles
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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-01-2004, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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well ... no sense it posting an after pic ... the blackout did not work. so, this ceases to be a "share" thread and becomes a question thread.

Wasserpest ... so i should let this just run it's course? are there any certain parameters i should pay close attention to? do i increase my water changes? basically ... any tips that would help my tank along??

quintin
--29 gallon--
55w cf, pressurized co2, cheesy hob, layered laterite/peat/profile/pea gravel substrate
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-01-2004, 05:06 PM
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DON'T do water changes for a few days, until it clears up.

Measure NO3 and PO4. High levels of PO4 while NO3 being zero is a sure recipe for green water. Let us know what you get. Do you add any fertilizers?

Continue normally with everything, like lighting and feeding. Except don't do any water changes. Check on your fishies in the morning, to make sure they are not running low on oxygen over night. If so, you might need some aeration during the night time.

IF that doesn't work, your nutrient levels N and P are alright, and after 8 days there is no improvement, you might want to try what Charles suggested.
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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-01-2004, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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i checked my no3 this morning ... it came in at 10. i just checked my po4 and it came in at .2 or .5 (having trouble getting used to reading the color by looking down the tube).

i have the ferts but i have not yet started adding any ... i have KNO3, K2SO4, monopotassium phosphate, plantex csm, and some "Pant Gro" stuff from hagen (came with some plant order). I swaer i had some florish, too, but i cannot seem to figure out where i put it. i planned to do some dosing tonite. should i wait??

other information that i have not disclosed:
55 gallon
2 55W CF 9355K lamps
2 32W T8 10,000K lamps
pressurized CO2

i will take the full range of tests when i get home this evening and let you know.

thanks.

quintin
--29 gallon--
55w cf, pressurized co2, cheesy hob, layered laterite/peat/profile/pea gravel substrate
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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-01-2004, 05:39 PM
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Yeah, I would wait with dosing ferts until that green water episode is over. With 10 ppm of NO3, you don't need to dose that anyway.

Looks like the nutrients are in a good relation, so with some patience, I think you might get it all resolved soon.

"Pant Gro"? Sounds like good stuff

One thing that always helps in battling algae: Lots of plants! Without it, lights and fertilizers and CO2 are all for nothing.
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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-01-2004, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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i do not have enough plants currently but, i have a bunch of fast growers on order:
  • 3 Mexican Oak Leaf (Shinnersia rivularis).
  • 3 Moneywort (Bacopa Monnieri).
  • 1 Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)
  • 1 Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis)
  • 1 Green Temple Narrow (Hygro Corombosa)
they should be here tonite or tomorrow.

hey, Rex ... does that list look slightly familiar ... thanks for a really great FAQ ... ... it's helped me a lot.

quintin
--29 gallon--
55w cf, pressurized co2, cheesy hob, layered laterite/peat/profile/pea gravel substrate
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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-02-2004, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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test results:
NO3 = 10
PO4 = .5
KH = 2.8
PH = 7

i'm having a hard time accepting those KH / PH readings ... they are not where they would normally be ... something to watch, i guess.

quintin
--29 gallon--
55w cf, pressurized co2, cheesy hob, layered laterite/peat/profile/pea gravel substrate
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-02-2004, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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[note to self] CO2 cannot difuse into the water colum unless you plug in the reactor [/note to self] ops:

quintin
--29 gallon--
55w cf, pressurized co2, cheesy hob, layered laterite/peat/profile/pea gravel substrate
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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-02-2004, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
If there is anything wrong with this approach, I'd like to know
The only thing wrong with your approach is that you are clearing up the GW, of this there is no doubt, however you are not addressing the cause of the problem.

ie. nutrient imbalance, improper dosage of fertilizer, lack of CO2, etc.

Mike

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-02-2004, 04:53 AM
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Strange that it didnt come back then....
Perhaps the majority of those nutrients were bound in the algae itself, and once I cleaned the filter those excess nutrients were gone forever?

I dunno... Im just very, very happy that the green water disapeared.
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-02-2004, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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i think more of the point is the lack of attempted discovery of the root problem. a fix that gets one back on track is a good fix if they know where they went off track ... otherwise ... it's just a fix that will probably have to be utilized again.

in my case, i am pretty sure i know what went wrong. it's really a tale of unfortunate incidences that led to an extreme imbalance of fertilizers and CO2.

so, i feel i could safely employ your idea but i'm trying an excessive in patience to see if the tank will come back around on its own.

quintin
--29 gallon--
55w cf, pressurized co2, cheesy hob, layered laterite/peat/profile/pea gravel substrate
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-02-2004, 03:26 PM
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Advantage of the "patience" method is -- besides that there is no cost to it -- it seems to make tanks immune to future greenwater outbreaks.

This doesn't seem the case with the other methods that fight the results, like flocculating, diatom, UV, blackout, water changes...
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