You have two issues to deal with. (1) Prevention and (2) Eradication.
Prevention: The first thing is to figure out what's allow the BBA to grow. The BBA spores are in your tank, and I have never found a way to get them back out. Just about everyone gets them at some point. They come on the fish we buy or a plant we traded with someone or maybe the decor. However it gets in our tanks, it gets in. Once in, it's there forever. So you have to create an environment that the BBA does not like.
To accomplish this you need to focus on your plants. Make the environment as happy as you can for your plants. You're already doing a great job with dosing ferts and injecting CO2. To battle BBA, you may need to increase your CO2. You need to get it to 30ppm to stop BBA from spreading.
The way I did it was to creep up the CO2 very slowly and carefully until I noticed that it affected the fish. At that point, I dropped the CO2 down one small notch and that was my setting. I also used a pH controller which I found invaluable in ensuring that the CO2 levels remained stable all day and all night.
You'll know when the environment is no longer BBA friendly as the BBA will just stop spreading. New leaves on plants will grow and not get it on them. You'll bleach a rock and it will remain BBA free. At that point, you've won half the battle.
Eradication: Now you have to deal with the second problem: getting rid of the BBA already in the tank. There are a lot of different ways to do this, but my preferred method is to use the regular 3% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). It's really cheap at any drugstore or grocery store. I like to do the full tank treatment which means to use between 2-3% of the tank size. For example, on my 75g tank, I would dose a total of 2/3 to 1 cups of H202 in the tank.
2 * 75g = 150ml (which is the same as 5oz or about .63 cups) = 2/3 cup of H202
3 * 75g = 225ml (which is the same as 7.6oz or about .95 cups) = 1 cup of H202
To prepare for the H202 treatment, turn off the tank's filters and lights. After measuring the total H2O2 you'll be using, get a large syringe or a turkey baster and squirt the H2O2 onto the worst areas of BBA in the tank. Once you've used up all the H202, wait about 15 minutes. Then turn on the filters and lights again. Allow the H202 to circulate throughout the tank. No water change is needed! The H2O2 breaks down into H2O + O which is water and oxygen!
I've done this twice a day on my tanks without any problems. Be sure to start off at the lower dose and work your way up, checking to be sure everything's fine. I've even gone as far as 4% applications without problems.
While you're doing this, be sure to take out anything you can easily remove, such as rocks, spray bars, etc. to clean outside the tank. Soak in bleach for half an hour or so. I've heard 5% solution suggested, but to be honest, I just fill up my kitchen sink and pour in bleach without measuring. Once the've been bleached, scrub clean and then remove the bleach with a dechlorinator like Prime.
As long as you have corrected the situation in the tank that's allowing the BBA to grow, you will get rid of it for the most part because it won't grow back on the areas you've cleaned and treated. There will always be a few little traces of it here and there, but that should be about it. Nothing to detract from the tank. If you start to see more, then you know to fix the environment very quickly so it can't spread and to spot treat it right away.
Vicki —Rena Filstar pimp #142 (four XP4s/three XP2s/one XP1) • Eheim pimp #301 (Pro II 2128) • Victor pimp #27 (VTS-253B-320)
• 90g - Journal
Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe' ——
• 75g - Journal
Pelvicachromis pulcher 'Lagos Red' Better Pics 8-24
• 29g - Journal
Pelvicachromis pulcher 'unknown' —--
• 29g - Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe'
• 5g - RCS colony ——————————————————
• 2.5g - Journal