I add lots of ferts to this tank and have not visible algae anywhere. 30-45ppm NO3, 10-15ppm of PO4, 1-2 ppm Fe added weekly.
BBA has never entered this tank.
Tom, I'm curious to your statement that you have no algae issues in this tank nor have you ever had any BBA in this tank but in your journal thread you stated this.
Originally Posted by plantbrain View Post
"Light, CO2 and ferts, it's in ADA aqua soil amazonia(see AFA or ADG for sales in the USA for ADA products)
I have lots of shrimp, and you will often see it covered with BBA or cladophora infested in the middle of the spikey ball, hard to remove, I take great pains removing any such leaves, algae from them. Bladderwort also can be an issue, or even the moss, like Fissidens.
Fragments get into nice plants like these, or downoi, or ruin a nice stand of Hairgrass belem etc.
Plant weeds in planted tanks are a real serious problem for me, I'm very aggressive about removal and checking plants before and after I add them to my tanks.
I would like to do a Iwagumi with only Erio cinreum."
So what I would like to know is do you or have you had any BBA issues in this tank?
Answer is no, not in the 120 Gal tank. The above statement is taken out of context. I'm discussing prevention: getting rid of algae, moss, Riccia before it comes in from other folks you buy plants from.
Sometimes you miss some, so you get the tweezers and pull it out ASAP!
This does not say or imply that I have/had an algae bloom.
It I take a rock covered with BBA from one tank and add it to the 120, this does not suggest the 120 has BBA or an issue with it. Same thing here in the above text you quoted. Once I remove the few small frags that I did not get before putting it into the tank, end of story. As stated, I've never had any algae issue, this is due to keeping up on the cleaning, algae eaters and keeping good environmentals.
The only algae issue I've seen was cleaning the glass much more often once I bumped the light up 2x.
This is still manageable but I have to clean the glass weekly vs once every 2 months.
Pretty big difference.
But more labor= more growth= more light.
I have seen BBA on flourite grains etc, and on ADA AS grains in some tanks.
the BBA only appears on the old 1/2 dead leaves that will be covered with new growth after I mow the beejesus out of the Starougyne in that tank, but I'm removing nearly 50% of the entire plant biomass. Then there are few/no algae eaters, maybe a few Amanos, but not enough to do anything.
that tank got ick bad and wiped out most of the Cards, so the plants also melted after I jacked the temp to 90F for 3 weeks to help(it did not help), the regrowth got some light BBA, and a little on the wood.
Otherwise, if I simply added say 100 Amano shrimps, or SAE's, or trimmed differently, I could remove 100% of all visual amounts, but it's quite tolerable in my case for that tank.
My non CO2 60p has also never had an algae issue, it grew some nice Cladophora which was welcomed. A little glass algae that was cleaned once every 1-2 months.
I feel that it would be helpful to the rest of the people here to let them know that even you have to deal with some of these algae problems also rather than making it seem like you never get any algae.
I've never once made it seem like I never get algae, folks might read into some piece meal comments and assumed that, but if they want some clarification and ask a follow up, I'm quite honest about it and the solutions.
Always have been.
Still, you can tell folks the solution 1000 times and some will still have algae, statistically, that's bound to occur. I thought folks where not honest also when I started and had issues. Took me awhile.
I get tired of hearing people say the same ol' same ol' response to BBA that it is always TOO MUCH LIGHT, NOT ENOUGHT CO2. I have been battling some BBA on my driftwood the last 2 months and this all came about after I reduced my lighting to half of what I was running. I know my CO2 can't be turned up without risk to my livestock as I cranked it up to the point where I gassed a few fish then I dialed it back down. The last 2 1/2 weeks I turned the lighting back to what I was running and the BBA seems to be less than it was. I have came to my own conclusion that there is more to BBA than the too much light, not enough co2.
Could be, but every time I've cured a tank in person, every time
, I'm talking perhaps 50 tanks over the years for other people, it's been CO2 as the main environmental. But you are correct, it's not just CO2..........(light is mostly independent, but can help CO2 issues indirectly) it;'s also things like algae eaters, the SAE etc........Amano shrimps, manual picking and removal(which was what that quoted text was all about), water changes, beating it back with many small hammers.
Once you get to that stage and it's fairly well eradicated at the macroscopic level, then you back track and see if you can INDUCE it by changing the CO2 and removing it.
I've had CO2 tanks run out mid week, not an issue, if they ran out for 1-2 weeks, then I start to see little tufts. 3-4 weeks, I have some nice fur.
This does not say every reason for BBA or it's bloom/spore germination........but it is likely one and one I've seen many times.
Clients and fellow hobbyists I've helped in person have had 100% success. Recently one in FL had some annoying BBA and he did the work and made the adjustments. CO2 was part of it, not all of it.
But you cannot address the rest of the labor and work without also addressing the CO2, it'll just come back. Maybe the filter got clogged and poor circulation? There's many ways to louse a tank up, so I try and go through everything, often some simple stuff folks over look. Done plenty of that myself.
So I agree, less light/more CO2 is not the only answer. But CO2 is often the root issue, the rest are more methods to get in there and spray, scrape, etc, and algae eaters etc. Folks also use Excel way too much as a cure all as well, you could say the same thing when it comes to advice, many say add Excel.
There's no silver bullet. And that's what many expect and seek when it comes to algae. The only thing I've seen and learned that's been really consistent is to focus on good plant growth. That's the best algae prevention tool.