The CO2 does help slow down the growth (very good) but does not stop it completely. I went through a month long campaigne of sitting in front of the tank every morning and afternoon and removing it by hand. I trimmed and trashed plants that were infested and removed individual pieces of flourite with tongs (my tanks 30" tall and I can't reach the bottom). Now every once and a while a piece of it will show up and I just pull it out, so I guess your never rid of it. The up side is, if there's ever a Aquarium tong competition I will definitely be in the running for first place, good luck.
Well somehow for over a decade it's not infested any tank I've worked on after I made this change.iven the number of tanks, the number of folks I've helped and the time, luck ain't it.
It's also something I can go back and repeat.
Algae is there for a reason, if it's still a problem, you still have a CO2 issue, that's not what you want to hear, but the algae does not lie, your test kit might......
So until ytou address that, you'll keep having it come back again and again.
Or perhaps I have been really really really lucky for a really long time........
I upped the co2 up between 35 and 40ppm now and have been checking it regularly with the lamotte test kit. The kit seems to be reliable. I did a major pruning and cleanup of the bba. Also bleached a couple bolbitis plants that were heavily infested. I think it's possible my co2 has been dipping down pretty low lately. I noticed that my ph probe isn't holding it's accuracy for a month at a time like it used to which would screw up my ph-kh/co2 calculations. I'll test the co2 every other day with the lamotte kit and make sure it stays up and hopfully this bba will finally stop growing so fast and I can get it under control. I'm so burned out on pruning and cleaning up bba it isn't even funny.
You will kill yourself with test kits, my CO2 , "if done by the test kits" tells me I am between 48 and 60ppm of CO2 (closer to 60 ) which by all standards is a deadly range for fish and my fish dont surface for O2 and could care less. So is that an accurate reading ? Dont know , dont care... the fish colors are beautiful, appetite is perfect.
I believe I read Tom saying earlier... forget the kits and up the CO2, I would take that info to the bank. I have been doing it for years and unless I see a photo , I have forgotten what BBA even looks like.
Isn't it true you can control (and virtually eliminate) BBA at 30ppm or more if its kept that high? But it can always come back. So its really a control, rather than a cure. At least that was how I interpreted some advice from Rex regarding defeating BBA. Also, with such high O2 as a result of plant pearling, you don't have to worry about O2 for your fish, even if the CO2 levels gets in the supposedly "dangerous" 40 to 60 ppm occasionally. My fish never seem to have a problem. Now, if I can just get rid of the blasted film algae on my glass.
Three Tanks...Eheim 2128 & XP3-90G, Eheim 2128-65G, Eheim 2232-25G.... Tek 4x54 watt T5-90G, Aqualight 96watt PC 65G low tech, 65 watt Aqualight-25G.... Hydors-90G & 65G ... Flourite in 90, 65, & 25 Gallons, .... Auto Water Change/Auto dosing on 90 & 65 gallon..... AGA member......
i removed all mine by hand and pruning off the plants and ever since my stem plants have adapted I haven't seen much of it, I did introduce some flagfish and they were nibbling at it also, I just have a little bit on my filter intube that's about it =)
upped the co2 to 40-45ppm last couple of weeks and has minimal if any effect on bba. Have mechanically removed as much as possible every day. Added 4 siamese algae eaters yesterday, added a dozen or so stem plants, have kept dosing, nitrates 5-10ppm, phosphates .5-1.0ppm. I'll give this another month and then if nothing is any better I'll bleach the whole tank.