Algae please help!!!! - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Algae please help!!!!

Hi my names josh I just started up my 20g dirtied tank 8 weeks ago and all was going well till about 2 week ago the brown algae started!! As you can see in pic 1. So to make it go away temporarily I cleaned my rocks off every 3 days with a 30% water change when just recently it's been taking over the back wall and getting outta hand. When I started the tank it had no plants in it for a week cause they were beening shipped. Everything was going so well and then just boom I wasn't paying it much attention and it just came outta no where. I went to the pet store and bought some Nitrate and nitrite removing pads and they've been in the for 3 days. I also Bought tetra algae control seen in pic 2 the bottle says DO NOT USE IN NEWLY ESTABLISHED FILTER LESS THEN 3 MONTHS OLD. Any help would be great cause I really don't wanna restart the tank but if need be I will. But anything I can get to rid of the algae I will get. Thanks!

My test read
Ph 6.8
Ammonia 0.25 always at that
Nitrite 0.
Nitrate 0









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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 07:53 AM
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That Tetra thing is not going to help you. It looks like just diatoms and it should go away on it's own. If you're impatient, you can scrub it off easily or get some otocinclus catfish, they love that stuff. But FIRST take care of that 0.25ppm ammonia.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burito View Post
That Tetra thing is not going to help you. It looks like just diatoms and it should go away on it's own. If you're impatient, you can scrub it off easily or get some otocinclus catfish, they love that stuff. But FIRST take care of that 0.25ppm ammonia.


My ammonia is always 0.25 don't get higher or lower it's the same in my other 20g I started 2 weeks ago I'm just as puzzled!!


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 08:39 AM
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Cap over the soil look's like fluorite or safe-t-sorb ?
If so,,then dust from these product's can leave residue on substrate and leaves.
Can't never get either product to rinse clear IME, but some rinsing to knock off the majority of the dust and sifting through hardware cloth can make sizeable difference in amount of particulates in/on the substrate which also reduces that which floats around with the flow from filtration or disturbance by you/me while moving or uprooting plant's.
Looks to be Emperor or penguin HOB filter and swishing the filter material from them around in some old aquarium water or dechlorinated water can help remove dirt and provide good flow.
Would keep water level in tank high enough to prevent water flow effect from the HOB filter but rather have just good surface ripple from the filter output.
Believe some type of consistent nutrient delivery scheme would be my aim.(in addition to nutrient's in soil).
In low tech,you might could get away with Flourish comprehensive at suggested dose twice a week.
Would maybe run lighting no more than six or eight hour's total for the day especially in NON CO2 injected tank.(a few more week's)
Seachem Excel would not be too expensive to use daily as directed for 20 gal tank ,and it can help plant's by providing more carbon than soil's alone.
Gotta use it near daily.
If the brown stuff is indeed diatom's which easily rub's off leaves/glass,rocks with your finger's,then as the tank matures ,the stuff goes away on it's own with nothing but patience.(some more stubborn than in other tanks)
Meanwhile,,I would add more plant's even if it meant removing a portion of them later due to crowding.
The relatively new soil should provide for the plants along with fish poo,fish food's,
But might take some time for root's to reach the soil dependent on how deep the cap is over the soil.
Is why I would hedge my bet with the afore mentioned Flourish comprehensive,or macro/micro package from Planted Aquarium Fertilizer - Home
All bet's are off however if the soil you are using is loaded with root tab's,osmocote like product's outside what soil might contain.
Hope some of this help's.

P.S., Would not use nitrate reducing pad or algae control but add more plant's as mentioned.
Nitrates will be used up by plant's which could lead to deficiency(depending on how well the pad work's) and algae has a tough time in heavily planted tank where plant's are actively using same nutrient's as algae for growth.

Last edited by roadmaster; 02-03-2017 at 09:03 AM. Reason: additional
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 08:41 AM
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So you may have just a bad test or there's a source of ammonia that your cycle cannot handle and you can have bigger problems than just diatoms. Either way, don't put Otos in there untill you sort it out. Seems to me your tanks are not fully cycled yet.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 12:44 PM
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As far as ammonia goes for us, we have a little bit of ammonia in our regular water - I just add an ammonia neutralizer at every water change and that seems to work wonders. Hope that helps!

________________________________________________


Everglade Lagoon: 60gal, heavily planted with CO2 system, EI dosing, and a variety of freshwater fish.
Congo Cove: 40gal, medium planted, low tech, one Congo Puffer (https://www.facebook.com/CongoCove)
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Baby Tank: 10gal, lightly planted, low tech, three snails, Amano and Cherry shrimp, and a ton of Molly fish fry
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 01:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadmaster View Post
Cap over the soil look's like fluorite or safe-t-sorb ?

If so,,then dust from these product's can leave residue on substrate and leaves.

Can't never get either product to rinse clear IME, but some rinsing to knock off the majority of the dust and sifting through hardware cloth can make sizeable difference in amount of particulates in/on the substrate which also reduces that which floats around with the flow from filtration or disturbance by you/me while moving or uprooting plant's.

Looks to be Emperor or penguin HOB filter and swishing the filter material from them around in some old aquarium water or dechlorinated water can help remove dirt and provide good flow.

Would keep water level in tank high enough to prevent water flow effect from the HOB filter but rather have just good surface ripple from the filter output.

Believe some type of consistent nutrient delivery scheme would be my aim.(in addition to nutrient's in soil).

In low tech,you might could get away with Flourish comprehensive at suggested dose twice a week.

Would maybe run lighting no more than six or eight hour's total for the day especially in NON CO2 injected tank.(a few more week's)

Seachem Excel would not be too expensive to use daily as directed for 20 gal tank ,and it can help plant's by providing more carbon than soil's alone.

Gotta use it near daily.

If the brown stuff is indeed diatom's which easily rub's off leaves/glass,rocks with your finger's,then as the tank matures ,the stuff goes away on it's own with nothing but patience.(some more stubborn than in other tanks)

Meanwhile,,I would add more plant's even if it meant removing a portion of them later due to crowding.

The relatively new soil should provide for the plants along with fish poo,fish food's,

But might take some time for root's to reach the soil dependent on how deep the cap is over the soil.

Is why I would hedge my bet with the afore mentioned Flourish comprehensive,or macro/micro package from Planted Aquarium Fertilizer - Home

All bet's are off however if the soil you are using is loaded with root tab's,osmocote like product's outside what soil might contain.

Hope some of this help's.



P.S., Would not use nitrate reducing pad or algae control but add more plant's as mentioned.

Nitrates will be used up by plant's which could lead to deficiency(depending on how well the pad work's) and algae has a tough time in heavily planted tank where plant's are actively using same nutrient's as algae for growth.
I have 1 and a half inches of dirt and same with the cap. I'm using Flourish but I stopped it for 2 weeks now cause I don't know if that could make the algae worse. Would it help control algae if I use diy co2 cause I was using it but stopped and that's when it all started. Any advice on the algae controls you can buy or what fish will eat it??




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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 04:52 AM
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Would reduce lighting period to no more than eight hour's and resume with the flourish comprehensive and DIY CO2 or product EXCEL mentioned.
I have suspicion that stopping the CO2 no matter how little one might be able to add this way has/had, direct effect on plant's and made for prime condition's for algae as plant's begin to do more poorly.(see rubisco mechanisim in aquatic plant's).
If the DIY CO2 is too much of a bother,then the Seachem Excel will help a little so long as you use it near daily as direction's call for.
Any additional CO2 provided will only help plant's.
Stability is the key plus...not too much light for NON CO2 method if that is what one has chosen.
Light is driving demand for CO2 nutrient's no matter what method is chosen but few want to reduce their $$ lighting most of the time or so it seems to me.
Fewer yet,have too little light being an issue.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 09:45 PM
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don't stop the Flourish. Your plants need it and growing plants will help control algae.
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