The official EDGE thread - Page 52 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #766 of 2149 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newman View Post
manual removal, and frequent water changes will get your algal troubles under control in a few months. excel will help as it lets the plants grow faster and take over instead of the algae taking over. so do those 3 things and you'll be good.
would this kill staghorn too?
also got a small amount off thead in the tank too
how much excel would be safe in an edge?
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post #767 of 2149 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011, 08:49 PM
Mxx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tener View Post
would this kill staghorn too?
also got a small amount off thead in the tank too
how much excel would be safe in an edge?
After trying to do a fair bit of reading up on the use of Excel, I've ended up using about a half-capful a day. I appreciate this is certainly more than recommended, and I started testing that when I had just some dither fish in the tank. I haven't seen any problems from doing that in any case. I still have a little big of green algae growing here and there, but not enough that it's a problem at all.
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post #768 of 2149 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011, 10:49 PM
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As of Today, Before i sell it.






my Fluval Edge **SOLD**
Mr Aqua 11.4 **coming soon to a thread near you**
i have the BUG!
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post #769 of 2149 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 05:45 PM
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Awesome job on fixing the Edge's light problem. I'm thinking about doing this now. I have been wondering for quite some time about how to go about it...thanks again for sharing.
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post #770 of 2149 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 09:08 PM
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there are a whole bunch of ways to add on a fixture above this tank. some people place a small model of the Current USA PC fixture on the hood of this tank.
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post #771 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 06:13 PM
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EDIT:

Hi all

I want to add a coralife 50/50 to my tank. Does anyone know what size fitting I need for this? And to wire it, does it just go plug > fitting > bulb. Like no protection or transformer?

Is it not dangerous having 240v in a damp environment?

EDIT 2:

OK, I finally managed to establish that it's an E27/ES (E26 in the US) fitting.

If I just pull an old lamp to bits, seal as I feel appropriate and put the coralife bulb in, am I going to kill myself and everyone I love?
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post #772 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 10:11 PM
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Hi all,

On the market to purchase an EDGE, and I stumbled onto this forum.

I have a couple noob question.

Will these MR16 LEDs fit the stock EDGE fixtures?

http://www.heroledstore.com/ultra-br...50w-p-563.html

I've read some threads saying that socket should be replaced. Others say MR16 can be jammed into the stock fixtures with a little brute force...

Also, do these LEDs need to be sealed in any way?
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post #773 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 03:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkbmxr18 View Post
Well, I finally got my lighting all figured out! I added a 10w Walmart aquarium bulb to my LED for some extra power for the plants. Man oh Man does the tank look awesome with the lights on now! We'll see how the plants do with the lighting I am running. Now it's time to start making the inside of the tank look cool! Thanks to everyone that helped with suggestions.

(I assure you that the tank looks waay better in person. The camera captured the lights a little bit weird!)
A few pictures of the setup:
the fixture

turned on underneath

and the FTS with all the lights on

Awesome job on the tank! I have one as well but I was wondering if you had a link for the base of the cfl bulb? Can't find those white ones anywhere. Thanks.
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post #774 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 03:01 PM
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just go to your local home depot or lowes.. they have tons of them. i bought one where all you do is just screw the bottom to the extension cord

my Fluval Edge **SOLD**
Mr Aqua 11.4 **coming soon to a thread near you**
i have the BUG!
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post #775 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 03:46 PM
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Slowly building it.. just need to design an acrylic shield.




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post #776 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 12:28 PM
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Here's my newly planted edge. What you think? Been running for 2 weeks.

Sorry for my newbie camera skills!
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post #777 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 08:39 PM
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it looks fine
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post #778 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-14-2011, 04:46 AM
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I don't know if everyone's already seen this, but I stumbled across it on youtube a while ago...

Wall mounted fluval edge:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vYClBpGG3Y
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post #779 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-14-2011, 05:11 AM
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nice floating edge. a bit overstocked tho IMO...
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post #780 of 2149 (permalink) Old 03-25-2011, 01:43 AM
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After reading through everyone's modifications which I'd found to be quite helpful, I thought I should respond in like by sharing my own set-up as well with my fellow hobbyists.



However, mine is sort of an experimental work in progress, so I suggest you not try this at home! My goal is to achieve a decently balanced system through the principles of overstocking, overfeeding, overplanting, overfiltration, and low maintenance. The tank has been running for about five months now and water conditions remain quite good actually, despite that I'm basically breaking every accepted rule of aquarium keeping, (albeit in as informed a manner as I can).

I have a Fluval 305 canister filter which has its intake and return tubes mounted to the underside of the stock hang-on-back filter. The media in the canister is primarily biological, including Seachem Matrix which should thus eliminate Nitrates as well. (I only just added it and denitrifying anerobic 'live-rock' type media takes quite a few weeks to mature). The filter and media are of course for a tank up to fifteen times the size of mine, but it happened to be the used filter I found cheap on Ebay so the excess size doesn't seem detrimental. I suspect in my set-up that despite very heavy planting, the plants themselves wouldn't be able to utilize all the nitrogen (ammonia/nitrites/nitrates), which is why the large biological filter is required. Whether I will need to use Phosguard for phosphate removal I'm not sure, but I took it out of the filter for now after realizing to what extent it was limiting my plant's growth. The filtration won't however remove the trace elements coming in from the food, so I'm hoping those will prove to supply enough for the plants without requiring extra nutrients to be dosed. And topping off for evaporation should remineralize the water as necessary, hopefully. (I'l add a little bag of crushed coral to the filter as well if my hardness and PH start to fall in time).

The canister filter tubes, wiring and everything run through the stock rear housing, and the shelf is drilled to allow all the tubes/wires/cords to be hidden behind the books on the lower shelves, which I'm happy about with the Edge's design as I didn't really want to see any equipment visible anywhere.
With the stock lighting set-up being completely rubbish in terms of light spread (especially after having added the dense planting) and with how it didn't shown any of my fish's iridescence as they were all backlit and looking washed out, what I needed was to add light from the front edge and along the sides of the tank. The 9 mm (3/8 inch) thick auxiliary LED housing strip does a good job of providing the desired light spread/angles/distribution, while still being quite discreet and being within the design character of the Edge. The stock halogen bulbs were also replaced by MR11 LED bulbs, and I have three small wands of LED's, in red and a small blue moonlight wand which I leave on 24/7, which are superglued to the stock lighting arm as shown. I built the auxiliary lighting hood by drawing the necessary shapes out in CAD, emailing the file to a lasercutting fabricator who produced the necessary pieces in acrylic. And then I laminated the three layers together to create the thin rectangular C shape which you can see on top and which has a narrow channel to the underside where I've mounted a few inexpensive LED strips I bought off Ebay. I experimented a bit, and am now using approximately an equal amount of warm-white and cool-white LED's, and I estimate that together my lighting is producing about 700 lumen, though despite trying to research it I'm still not sure whether that would qualify as high or low light intensity. The lights are on two cheap timers, with one strip of white LED's on about 13 hours a day, with the rest being on for 8 hours. I'll discontinue the use of the red and maybe even the blue, as especially given the ripple effect at the opening, the coloured likes look a bit distracting. I could have made the acrylic auxiliary lighting housing much narrower if I had used only the edge-lit/side-lit/side-shine LED strips, and they would have been much easier to fit around the corners of the housing, but I've only seen those come in cool-white.

I've been dosing heavily with Excel, and tried DIY CO2 but found it to be too risky. (By the way, the surface agitation provided by the stock filter is quite necessary for ensuring that an Edge has sufficient oxygen levels). I now also have a pressurized CO2 system ready to go, as soon as I replace my check valves which don't seem to work very well. And the substrate is black Flourite sand. I occasionally need to scrape the front and top glass which get a little green algae, and there is a little on some of the leaves, as well as a lovely coat on the driftwood but it hasn't in any case been a bother. I've been dosing with Seachem Flourish, and put in some root tabs initially to try to get the plants started.

The flora is a Dwarf Hairgrass carpet, 5 Amazon swordplants, 3 Corkscrew Vallisneria, African Tiger Lotus, a few Pygmy Chain Swords, American Lizard Tail, a few Cryptocoryne Lucens, some other Cryps to front left which I bought earlier at the LFS and following these pictures replaced with Blyx Japonica. I definitely had wanted to achieve something close the dense jungle look, but I may need to start to do some trimming shortly as the swordplants are starting to overshadow much of the tank and I will likely replace them in time. All the plants, apart from the Lizard Tail seem to be doing fairly well. It was a real pain to plant everything through such a small opening, (and especially so with the hairgrass), and I had to replant a number of things which floated up but eventually everything stayed put. The platies weren't there at first, but they are frequently pulling up some of the hairgrass, despite that it seems to remain relatively thick still.

And the fauna is one Betta, three Platies and a baby now, six Cardinal Tetras, and a pair of Dwarf Ram Cichilds (which I don't recommend as despite seeming to be a pair, there has nevertheless been a fair amount of discord, so I wish I'd gone with Apistogramma instead). I had two Otincinulus, but as is the experience of many aquarists, I eventually lost them. I will be trying a few cherry shrimp, and am hoping they'll be able to survive without being eaten.

It's just recently that I finished my lighting set-up, so I'm not sure what further adjustments will need to be made. I'm monitoring the conditions though, and am generally happy with everything for the moment, apart from the Lizard Tail which I'm going to pull and replace with Limnophila Aromatica.












Red strips for plants to balance out the disproportionate blue from the LED strips. And a blue/white 4 LED moonlight kept on 24/7. All mounted with superglue onto stock lighting arm

Lasercut acrylic custom LED lighting strip enclosure, with 1 warm white LED strip, and 3 cool-white, (though I'm only actually using 1 or 2 of the cool-white at a time).



My canister filter not yet out of sight when I was first setting the tank up.

Last edited by Mxx; 03-25-2011 at 10:07 AM.
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edge, fluval, hagen, nano, neoheater, seneye

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