The official EDGE thread - Page 110 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1636 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-11-2012, 05:55 AM
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2 of these

MR16 Specifications:
Base:MR16
Light Color: Cool white
Color temperature: 6500k , Cool white
LED Quantity:19 Pieces SMD5050
Voltage: AC/DC 12V
Power:3W
Luminous Flux:190-210 lm
frequency:50Hz
CRI >70
Lifespan:30,000h
Beam Angle:140
Size:50 x 47.5mm(Dia x H)

4 of these 1 for back up


Specification:
Casing material: Aluminum
Number of bulbs(each): 6
Color of light: Pure White
Each LED bulb 1w
Input voltage: 12V
6000k

I just started my first dsm yesterday with one 10w stock halogen and a 18w cfl from an old tank Eco on a thin layer and activ-flora on top with API root-tap and misting daily with my 30l tank (dry ferts)


Last edited by daygoboiz; 06-11-2012 at 06:21 PM. Reason: More details
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post #1637 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-11-2012, 05:30 PM
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Hi all, I am new to this thread and have one of the original edge's that has been just sitting around. Was really unhappy with how hot the halogen lights got...

So I am ready to make some changes would like to just have some plants and shrimp for it, what would you recommend for substrate and mods for lighting; I have tried to read the whole thread but it seems like there is conflicting info...looking for any advice/suggestions

Thanks!

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post #1638 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-11-2012, 06:27 PM
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I think most people upgraded to mr16 led with new sockets and zip tied it with a 10w cfl, I'm new to hope that helps
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post #1639 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-11-2012, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daygoboiz View Post
I think most people upgraded to mr16 led with new sockets and zip tied it with a 10w cfl, I'm new to hope that helps
Or you can just buy the MR11s or MR16s and forgo the compact florescent (which will also generate quite a bit of heat). That's what I did and I've been very happy with the results. Of course, this has also meant that I have been somewhat limited with my plant choices but understanding this from the start allowed me to plan accordingly and I have had great results

This gets me thinking....

While there are lots of different mods discussed in this thread and elsewhere I think that you can assess your needs by asking yourself the following two questions:

Am I okay with having to modify my plant selection to meet the requirements of the Edge?
If yes, follow Path A. If no...
Am I willing to modify my Edge to meet the requirements of my plant selection?
If yes, follow Path B. If no, slap self in the face and return Edge to the store.
Path A: Accept the Edge for what it is... a low light tank.
  1. This means mod the lighting only if you have an older model and get rid of those terrible halogens. Buy some MR11 or MR16 LED bulbs -OR- Splurge a little by ordering one of the new LED lightbars as a replacement part (even if you buy the one made for the 12 gal and install it on your 6 gal you will still only have low to middle intensity light).
  2. Accept that low light can be nice too and make your plant choices accordingly
  3. Also accept that no matter what you do, your plants will not grow nearly as fast as you want them to
  4. Discover that the payoff to exercising extreme patience while waiting for your tank to really fill in is getting to enjoy less frequent maintenance, ie. pressurized CO2 is optional and you don't have to dose frequently or perhaps even at all.
  5. Enjoy tank

Path B: Decide that the plants you want to keep are more important than the tank you are keeping them in and mod the crap outta your Edge
  1. Decide what kind of tank you want it to be and what kind of plants you want regardless of the Edge's innate limitations.
  2. Research the requirements necessary to grow the plants you want and get them to look the way you want them to. For example, do you want a carpet of HC? Maybe consider dry start method. Do you want clusters of stem plants? Better look into pruning methods and if you think you are not going to be able to perform these through that little hole maybe you'd better remove the top of the tank.
  3. Find the lighting mod you can both afford and install yourself that best meets the needs of your desired plants. If you want that HC carpet you are probably going to have to at least zip-tie a compact florescent bulb up under the hood. If that makes things too hot for you then maybe look into adding more LED strips. If that HC carpet fails to do well in the corners of the tank because the hood is in the way then perhaps look into some mods that are external to the hood.
  4. Find (if necessary) the pressurized or DIY CO2 method and or mod that best meets the needs of your desired plants. The higher the light you have in your tank the more CO2 you need to control algae. See other sections of the forum for details on CO2
  5. Maintain the tank as needed taking into account your amplified lighting and CO2 levels... this will probably mean more frequent fert dosing and water changes. Again, refer to other sections of this forum for these details
  6. Enjoy tank

Keeper of plants, shrimp & oddball 'monsters'.
30gal X2 Journal | 'Ebiwagumi' EDGE

Last edited by raven_wilde; 06-11-2012 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Obsessive formatting ;)
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post #1640 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-11-2012, 10:21 PM
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[QUOTE=raven_wilde;1898715]Or you can just buy the MR11s or MR16s and forgo the compact florescent (which will also generate quite a bit of heat). That's what I did and I've been very happy with the results. Of course, this has also meant that I have been somewhat limited with my plant choices but understanding this from the start allowed me to plan accordingly and I have had great results

This gets me thinking....

While there are lots of different mods discussed in this thread and elsewhere I think that you can assess your needs by asking yourself the following two questions:

Am I okay with having to modify my plant selection to meet the requirements of the Edge?
If yes, follow Path A. If no...
Am I willing to modify my Edge to meet the requirements of my plant selection?
If yes, follow Path B. If no, slap self in the face and return Edge to the store.
Path A: Accept the Edge for what it is... a low light tank.
  1. This means mod the lighting only if you have an older model and get rid of those terrible halogens. Buy some MR11 or MR16 LED bulbs -OR- Splurge a little by ordering one of the new LED lightbars as a replacement part (even if you buy the one made for the 12 gal and install it on your 6 gal you will still only have low to middle intensity light).
  2. Accept that low light can be nice too and make your plant choices accordingly
  3. Also accept that no matter what you do, your plants will not grow nearly as fast as you want them to
  4. Discover that the payoff to exercising extreme patience while waiting for your tank to really fill in is getting to enjoy less frequent maintenance, ie. pressurized CO2 is optional and you don't have to dose frequently or perhaps even at all.
  5. Enjoy tank
Thanks for the advice! I am definitely the Path B, don't really care which live plants, just want live plants that will do well.


Now on to another question, how about substrate? I was thinking aquasoil since I have a naturally high ph out of the tap and can't ever get it down. I see there are different types of aquasoil so my question would be what type and how much? Where is the best place to buy from?


Do you just use the stock filtration that came with the tank?


How about CO2, I don't have any on my tanks (want to but want to do it right). I do have one of those nutrafin systems kicking around somewhere I was thinking of putting on the edge, what do you think?


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post #1641 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EllynE View Post
Thanks for the advice! I am definitely the Path B, don't really care which live plants, just want live plants that will do well.
Ehh... Path A is the one where you don't kinda don't care which plants you end up with and you choose them based on the limitations of the tank.

Additionally, I hope you don't think that my post meant to suggest that one path was better than the other. Plants will do well both ways, its just the rate of growth that will differ and the types of plants that can be kept.

Quote:
Now on to another question, how about substrate? I was thinking aquasoil since I have a naturally high ph out of the tap and can't ever get it down. I see there are different types of aquasoil so my question would be what type and how much? Where is the best place to buy from?
I've never used aquasoil so I don't know what to tell you other than everyone seems to love amazonia. I am sure though that there are TONS of threads about it over in the Substrate section of the forum.

Quote:
Do you just use the stock filtration that came with the tank?
I do and I think that it has worked just fine.

Quote:
How about CO2, I don't have any on my tanks (want to but want to do it right). I do have one of those nutrafin systems kicking around somewhere I was thinking of putting on the edge, what do you think?
If you not upgrading your lights (other than perhaps swapping out halogens for LEDs) then the nutrafin system will probably do alright for you. If you add more lights then you should probably venture into pressurized CO2, either paintball or something more professional. However, I recommend you search around the Fertilizers and Water Parameter section of the forum and learn about the relationship of light, CO2 and ferts before you start buying anything.

Keeper of plants, shrimp & oddball 'monsters'.
30gal X2 Journal | 'Ebiwagumi' EDGE
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post #1642 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EllynE View Post
Now on to another question, how about substrate? I was thinking aquasoil since I have a naturally high ph out of the tap and can't ever get it down. I see there are different types of aquasoil so my question would be what type and how much? Where is the best place to buy from?
Keep in mind that if you don't use aquasoil (or if it ends up not helping to lower your ph) that you can also lower your ph by including driftwood in your tank. The slow decomposition of organic matter produces CO2 which in turn uses up some of the calcium carbonate (aka KH) in the water and lowers your ph over time. Its a slow process and not harmful to your fish (as opposed to sudden ph drops due to over injection of pressurized CO2) but it can help to counteract hard tapwater.

This can also be accomplished to some degree by placing indian almond leaves, peat moss or pellets in your filter.

Keeper of plants, shrimp & oddball 'monsters'.
30gal X2 Journal | 'Ebiwagumi' EDGE
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post #1643 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 03:22 AM
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Bump for a great edge Raven
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post #1644 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 11:07 AM
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hello, it took me couple of days to read through the 100+ pages of this edge thread... a lot of information to know

anyway, for those who use the MR16 bulb instead of the stock MR11, how close it is between the bulbs and the water surface? as far as i know, the MR16 is bigger than MR11.
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post #1645 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 05:04 PM
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My New Fluval Edge

So I thought Id be a complete dork and post about my new Edge that I just set up a few weeks ago. Ive been eyeing the tank up for years, but I think they just discontinued it so I got it for a great price, and I didn't want to miss the chance of owning such an awesome and unique tank. Thats Hygrophila Compact in the middle, its definitely growing, sending roots down and putting out new leaves. The plan is to train it to look like a big green clump in the middle without the lower stalks showing. Some of the new leaves are all twisted and deformed though, any ideas why? The plant on the left is a lily grown from a bulb. It is really taking off. It put off all that growth in about a week. The substrate is just plain old aquarium gravel, will be adding root tabs soon. I have 6 neon tetras which are doing great. I do weekly water changes and I treat the new water with FloraPride. Also have the edge heater in there. Any advice? Like I said this is my first attempt at aquascaping so any suggestions would be great!

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post #1646 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 06:58 PM
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Pomacea diffusa

Hi ,i'd like to know if some of you have pomacea diffusa in an edge is the snail able to find the opening to breathe?

Thannks for your help
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post #1647 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 07:38 AM
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Hi all, I have been reading a lot about these tank but still undecided on which light exactly to fit to grow hc. Anyone have a solid and manageable DIY hood mod please advice me thanks!
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post #1648 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 11:18 AM
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post #1649 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 09:50 PM
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I recently went topless do to a crack on the top glass. Wondering how safe are the seams on the fluval edge. Planning on making it a work tank and would probably be in a world of hurt if this tank busted on me. Also, as far as pressure is involved, would there be more pressure in the tank if there were contents such as rocks and wood and filled with water or would the pressure be the same or greater if the tank was just completely filled with water? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Phil.
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post #1650 of 2165 (permalink) Old 06-26-2012, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philosophy View Post
I recently went topless do to a crack on the top glass. Wondering how safe are the seams on the fluval edge. Planning on making it a work tank and would probably be in a world of hurt if this tank busted on me. Also, as far as pressure is involved, would there be more pressure in the tank if there were contents such as rocks and wood and filled with water or would the pressure be the same or greater if the tank was just completely filled with water? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Phil.
I would imagine that there would be less pressure on the seams of the tank were it filled with rocks and wood. Like if you had one large 5 gallon sized rock centered in the tank, seems like there'd be only 1 gallons of water pressure on the tank. I dunno, sounds logical to me but I'm no expert.
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