Frank's Planted Tank How-To Mini Novel - The Mini S Returns! New Layout - Page 72 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1066 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 04:15 PM
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Hello driftwood inspiration. Oh 30cm cube, you will be so much fun to setup....

How did you attach the anubias and buces? I see plenty of cotton thread on the moss but I couldn't distinguish any for the buces and anubias except for the brown bit of wood tight on the bolbitis(?) on the branch.
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post #1067 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Yesterday, we left off here in the Mini S:


Wazeter Mini S Driftwood Layout v1 by Francis Wazeter, on Flickr

Elatine hydropiper in the layout - accompanied by Crypt parva.

But today, I'm going to diverge over to the 60-P and the happenings over there

It has been about 40-45 days since the initial setup of the 60-P, and after last night's trimming session, the tank looks like this:


60P Driftwood Layout after Trimming by Francis Wazeter, on Flickr

For stems, the first trimming is the most important, as it will determine at what stem length the stems will branch, so for the first time, you will want to trim low, behind a "trimming line."

As this layout developed, Rotala wallichi was actually the first stem to breach the water's surface, ahead of both Ludwigia sp. "atlantis" and Rotala rotundifolia "green." So in this case, I put up with a few days of Rotala wallichi looking goofy compared to the rest of the layout, in order to time the trimming of all the plants together at the same time.

You can see the results, and the stem density, more clearly here:


View of trimmed stems by Francis Wazeter, on Flickr

A note on Hottonia palustris - did you notice the plant that's off to the right back corner and is creeping to the left? That one right next to Rotala rotundifolia? That's Hottonia. So far, this plant has formed an excellent texture for that "foresty" feel - and I like it. While initially a little brown, with extra nutrition it has stayed fairly healthy. This plant wasn't trimmed yet, as it has displayed a tendency so far to spread horizontally first, rather than vertically, which, fortunately for the way I placed it, works out just fine.

Managing the mixed carpet -


carpet close up 60P by Francis Wazeter, on Flickr

There are a lot of carpet plants and plants used as a carpet hanging out in this layout.

There is:

Riccia fluitans
Hemianthus callicthroides
Glossostigma elatinoides
Fissidens fontanus
Echinodorus tennellus
Eleocharis parvula

...and some stems of Rotala rotundifolia that really want to pretend to act like a carpet plant.

Really, when I evaluate this carpet, it is a much more complicated carpet layout than my last iwagumi here:


Top angle shot of San Marcos River Summer, Francis Wazeter by Francis Wazeter, on Flickr

The reason is, in the Mini M, the only plants that needed controlling was Riccia (a straight trim), Tennellus (cutting runners) and Hair grass (cutting runners / pulling up runners to keep it contained), which didn't take much time.

However, this layout has all those elements - plus glossostigma, which has a tendency to race to cover ground as quickly as possible, and a mix of the glosso and HC just isn't the aesthetic I want across the front, it appears messy.

So, about 30 minutes during this session was spent cutting glosso runners and slowly using pincettes to uproot glosso from the HC areas and making sure the rest of the plants were in line. One of these days, I will make a video that shows this technique of removing a rooted plant without disturbing the substrate.

One more note - I'm very pleased with the Riccia in this layout, finally, after searching for a long time, I found the super-tiny Riccia fluitans sp / mutation that stays small and very fine leaved, versus getting broader leaves over time.

Question and Answer!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayden View Post
This is looking excellent Frank! I really love how the Mini S is coming along. I was actually planning to do a mixed carpet with C. Parva and HC/E. Hydropiper in my next scape! Can't wait to see it filled.
Great plan! I would, definitely though, recommend sticking to a single carpet of E. hydropiper and C. parva, unless you're already familiar with how E. hydropiper grows - since mixed carpets are tricky, due to reasons mentioned above, and I encourage you to try!

Quote:
Originally Posted by freph View Post
Hello driftwood inspiration. Oh 30cm cube, you will be so much fun to setup....

How did you attach the anubias and buces? I see plenty of cotton thread on the moss but I couldn't distinguish any for the buces and anubias except for the brown bit of wood tight on the bolbitis(?) on the branch.
I attached both the anubias and buce's with wood tight. Moss cotton was only used for mosses - I was able to conceal much of the wood tight by using a minimal amount and bunching together the anubias and buce's around the wood tight, while covering up other areas of the wood tight aesthetically with moss.

Final notes!

I have a lot of Rotala rotundifolia, Rotala wallichi, some Ludwigia sp. atlantis and a golfball of peacock moss and a golfball of the super tiny riccia. Send me a PM if you'd like any of it while it's fresh.

All the best,

-Frank
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post #1068 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 05:30 PM
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Frank - Since you are growing glossostigma in the 60p, let me ask:

How would you deal with glosso growing vertically? Also, if the glosso is already growing vertically, how would you let run horizontally? Is it more light? Or trimming techniques? I am currently having problems with this and I want some advice.

Other than that, it is a great tank! The scape makes the tank look a lot bigger than it really is; am I right in saying that it is partly because of the empty space on the right?
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post #1069 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iter View Post
Frank - Since you are growing glossostigma in the 60p, let me ask:

How would you deal with glosso growing vertically? Also, if the glosso is already growing vertically, how would you let run horizontally? Is it more light? Or trimming techniques? I am currently having problems with this and I want some advice.

Other than that, it is a great tank! The scape makes the tank look a lot bigger than it really is; am I right in saying that it is partly because of the empty space on the right?
Good question!

Glosso carpeting, does require good lighting and co2 - but also, good trimming technique. When it starts to pop up, trim it down, and when you plant, plant it deeply so it has to "pop up" into the substrate layer.

As for the scale - it is two things, the empty space, as well as the scaling of the plants, relative to the size of the driftwood - that's a pretty big piece for the size of the tank.
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post #1070 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 06:53 PM
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Hi Frank!

Very nice setup!!! LOVE IT, I have a question regarding the DHG. How you pull out the runner? Doesn't it disturb the substrate and pull out other plants too?

I am having so much trouble with BBA/BGA, and I try to increase the CO2 and lower the light on time but doesn't seems like helping. Does changing the water once every other day help?

Thanks for your help!

Also, where did you get your Cryptocoryne Parva, and do you have any experience planting UG?



Please forgive me for my grammar mistakes!
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post #1071 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 10:37 PM
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Great work Frank, the 60P looks beautiful.
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post #1072 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Returning to the Mini S setup,


Mini S planting progression foreground complete by Francis Wazeter, on Flickr

The planting of the foregound being complete, this angle top-view shot shows the detail of placement between Elatine hydropiper and Cryptocoryne parva.

Next up, we'll move on to the midground, behind Cryptocoryne parva:


Tissue Culture Littorella Uniflora Wazeter by Francis Wazeter, on Flickr

...With Littorella uniflora. For this segment, I wanted something a little more sparse to help create the transition behind crypt. parva to the background, and the thinner nature, yet similar appearance to crypt parva, makes this plant suitable for the job, here, you can witness the slow transition of leaf type and shape to the background, which aids in a feeling of depth.


Mini S with Littorella uniflora added to the midground by Francis Wazeter, on Flickr

Littorella uniflora completed in the layout

Until next time, enjoy the eye candy!

Some Q's, some A's and feedback!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunyang730 View Post
Hi Frank!

Very nice setup!!! LOVE IT, I have a question regarding the DHG. How you pull out the runner? Doesn't it disturb the substrate and pull out other plants too?

I am having so much trouble with BBA/BGA, and I try to increase the CO2 and lower the light on time but doesn't seems like helping. Does changing the water once every other day help?

Thanks for your help!

Also, where did you get your Cryptocoryne Parva, and do you have any experience planting UG?
Easier to reference this question with the picture from yesterday:


carpet close up 60P by Francis Wazeter, on Flickr

When pulling out DHG runners (or glosso runners, or tennellus runners, etc etc), use straight scissors to cut the runner roots itself. Meaning the little white shoots the plants send out to form new plants.

Once this has been cut, take a pair of fine tipped pincettes and grab the base of the plant. Making a gentle swirling motion (by rotating your hand clockwise or counter-clockwise) while slowly pulling upwards, you will dislodge the roots from the soil substrate, without pulling up soil or other plants (though in the case where a plant is entrenched with other plants, you will get some pull out of the other plant).

As for BBA - the best way to remove is manual removal with filter off, scraping it off of every surface it's on, either with a tool, like a pro picker or your fingernail. When it's growing on leaves, cut the leaves. Remove all the BBA with an airline tubing used as a siphon hose. Place any glassware with BBA on it in a clean bottle with superge or bleach to remove the bba and kill it there.

Supplement the tank with Phyton Git, and it will help supress the BBA.

It's a long and arduous process with BBA, and it will never fully go away once the tank is infected, but you can control the amount present so that it's just a tuft or two every now and again that you remove with a water change. Doing water changes daily or every other day for a little while helps with overall algae issues, yes.

For planting UG, plant it like you would HC or glosso - it's a really finnacky plant and has the highest chances of dying when initially planted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Green_Flash View Post
Great work Frank, the 60P looks beautiful.
Thanks! It's finally starting to take good shape!
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post #1073 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 03:44 AM
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hey frank, id like to hear your take on an issue im having with my tank. recently growth has slowed almost to a standstill. the hair algae i almost got rid of is getting worse. and now many plants are showing signs of Ca deficiency (pale and twisted new growth). however, my gh is 8. it used to be 4, and i think my taps gh went up (its at 6). i can only assume the Ca deficiency is induced by a Mg overdose, and that most of that gh is Mg. im bringing a Mg and Ca test kit my dad uses for his reef to check, and getting some CaSO4 from a friend. however, i dont want to have a gh this high. its slaughtering my poor erios. and adding more Ca to combat the deficiency will raise my gh higher. what would you do in this situation?
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post #1074 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 05:43 AM
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Such a beautiful tank! I am speechless!!!
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post #1075 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 05:57 AM
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This littorella uniflora is amazing. Is it import only?
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post #1076 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
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This littorella uniflora is amazing. Is it import only?
i have seen it on sale in the swap and shop before. and now you can get it in and in vitro cup from frank looks like.
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post #1077 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis Xavier View Post


"
Greetings from Singapore! You have got an awesome thread going on here. Thank you for the effort.

May i know how did you attach the plants to the rock in the above picture?
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post #1078 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-18-2013, 04:19 PM
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Frank,

What would you suggest if you see no pearling from your plants?
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post #1079 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-18-2013, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by OKnights112 View Post
Frank,

What would you suggest if you see no pearling from your plants?
You shouldn't worry if your plants aren't pearling. It's not necessarily an indication of healthy plant growth. It could be from the accumulation of CO2 bubbles floating around or from a water change....or from oxygen saturation.
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post #1080 of 1094 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
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Frank,

What would you suggest if you see no pearling from your plants?
if you want pearling, you need more than healthy plants. to get O2 to accumulate on the leaves, you need a high photosynthesis rate (meaning good light and more important good CO2), and you need to have the water column saturated with O2 (or it just dissolves away). so good aeration, and good flow.
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