the boraras look nice, but theyll look nicer after a few weeks the males should turn a darker red-orange color (not as red is the brigitae however). theyll color up better if you feed live food that was enriched with astaxanthin (i used "red" microworms). its the same pigment that gives shellfish their red color when cooked, and flamingos their pink hues.
feeding a betta and feeding shrimp are 2 separate things. bettas eat off the surface, shrimp off the floor.
feed your betta staple of good pellets (atisons betta pro is the best, omega one and hikari are also good) with some frozen/live food to keep him happy.
let the shrimp forage for its food. betta food is bad for them anyway, WAY too much protein.
The Maculatus have gotten pretty nicely red with the AP-1 Gold as their staple diet. I think they may actually be getting fat already, so I'll scale back their feedings (not because they don't eat it all, but rather, so they don't become gluttons!).
I plan on mixing foods in with a staple of AP-1 Gold (small size, easy digestion is win), with a few microworms like you mentioned. I might actually use some spirulina.
I'm a major proponent of keeping fish healthy with a varied diet.
Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish
Instead of the 50% a week water change, would you be able to split that, maybe 25 , 25 in one week?
My painted red don't like a massive amount of water change.
Also, since the new growth is not entirely a lust green, isn't that a sign of a trace problem? Micro-nutrients ? I been told N might be lacking since I keep it at 5 - 10 ppm.
You can do 25% twice weekly, sure. The idea is to do as many as is necessary to keep things balanced. You need to consider the health concerns of your animals as well, so if 25% twice a week is less stress than 50% once a week, go for it.
Go ahead and up your dosing of micro's to compensate with the increased potassium and iron. The idea here is you're slowly increasing amounts to eliminate deficiencies, so if one has a problem, you increase it, then the other might need to come up a bit.
If you're lacking N, can I ask what soil you're using? If it's aqua soil, you very rarely lack in N or Phosphorus.
That is some seriously healthy looking HC and riccia. Bravo.
HC looks to be about 3/4"-1" thick...any real threshold for a necessary trimming?
Thanks freph! The oxygen bubbles from Riccia in that quantity do a lot for the health of the system's organisms.
Normally I'd trim HC at about here, and will probably do so soon, but basically you want to sculpt HC to your desire. If you want it tight with the substrate you trim very early when it tries to mound this makes a tight, clean carpet.
Me? I want some mounding to balance the Riccia (which grows taller), so I want the level of Riccia to almost match the level of HC.
Thanks! You should enter as well.
Honestly I'm just throwing my hat in the ring if it comes to fruition by that time just to throw my hat in the ring. A nano tank -might- break top 100, but just due to scale alone isn't going to win (since you have many, many people who can win based just on scale and applying the same detail work of the layout).
Ironically Nano tanks are more "macro" scenes, and larger tanks are more "micro" scenes.
thats awesome! good luck!
Throw your hat in!