Coffee sounds great right about now...too bad my brewer is terrible.
You have an email in your inbox chief.
Also, how does the P1 outflow do for surface film or do you have to raise it like the regular lily pipes to see any removal of it? Also, how does the CO2 density thing work by changing the location of the diffuser? I thought it would be the same throughout as long as the current is dispersing it around the tank.
I need to find a time to escape to recruit coffee beans.
Generally, with an eheim 2211, surface film isn't too much of an issue, however it does occur. There are two methods to solving this: one do a small daily water change even when you are past the 1 major water change a day week (basically at night you would lower the water level to the lily pipe's output surface). Two: you can raise the lily pipe at night by using essentially a chop stick to raise and suspend it (this is kind of the jury rig version and just something I do every now and again, not a real ADA solution).
The other solutions for aeration at night is to manually add an air pump / stone.
Honestly, I'm more a fan of the drain a little bit of water at night and fill in the morning. However, it usually isn't as big an issue in these small tanks due to size and volume.
Where the diffuser sits in the aquarium makes a massive difference to distribution effectiveness. For example in the 60-P at ADG, every 2 weeks we switch the side the diffuser and filtration are on, because the side OPPOSITE of the diffuser will grow thick and tall, while the side WITH the diffuser will stay shorter and not grow as quickly, due to how flow maneuvers co2 through the water before it's fully diffused.
So sometimes if you're experiencing problems with one side of the aquarium not fully growing like the other, simply switch where the diffuser and flow are.
Thanks! I'll do that!!
is there a substitute i can use for the bio rio, maybe something cheaper and easier to get without having to worry about shipping? or would this we've an instance of "doing it right the first time" where nothing competes with bio rio?
what does tourmaline F do?i dont use any ADA additives. maybe there is something i can use instead? or would i be alright just not using either one when I clean my filter.
There are certainly alternatives to Bio Rio on the market: every major aquarium company produces a biological filtration media. However, I have found Bio Rio to be hands down the best in my experience, even over ehfi substrate (eheim's version, which is more expensive).
The reason is, from the get go Bio Rio has beneficial bacteria in a dormant state caked on it (e.g. quick start when you make the transition without sabotaging your biological much), has the highest microscopic surface area on it for biological, and basically has a little nutrients with it (it's a bit earthy).
If you take care of Bio Rio, you'll be able to use it for years to come. Just rinse it in aquarium water on a regular basis and it will last and last and last. Not a bad buy for $10 for 1l and $20 for 2l. So if you're in it for the long haul, invest in Bio Rio and a netting material to hold it together (i'll find a link somewhere).
Tourmaline F is a high quality water polisher and is a bit more perishable than Bio Rio, so if the choice was Tourmaline OR Bio Rio, go with Bio Rio, although shipping dollars is about the same when you get the two together. Tourmaline F allows you to not have to use carbon to remove any impurities and is much longer lasting than carbon as it is raw Tourmaline Stones.
I would begin a track of investing in ADA additives for their effects and uses, but take it in steps, learn what they're useful for and apply them for effectiveness.
In a 10 gallon tank:
Green Bacter: $18, beneficial bacteria stabilizes aquarium during cycling and helps during water changes to maintain bacteria. In a 10 gallon it will last you 1 - 1 1/2 years with the proper dosing.
Cost: $0.033 a day
Bacter 100: $16, Substrate additive + cyanobacteria killer & additive for algae problems. For Nano tanks, typically lasts 4 layouts.
Cost: $4 / layout
ECA: $18, fertilizes iron and organic acids to encourage bacterial growth, dosed once a week 3-4 drops. In Nano tanks, will last 1 - 1 1/2 years.
Cost: $0.033 / day
Green Gain: $18, contains trace elements, minerals, amino acid, as well as plant hormones to help plants recover quicker after trimming. In Nano tanks, lasts 1 - 1 1/2 years.
Cost: $0.033 / day
Phyton Git: $18, contains Phytoncide and no chemicals. This is a natural solution to algae, when it breaks out dosing to water column helps kill algae by strengthening plants natural auto-immune systems
to fight algae. You can apply this with a brush directly to anubias leaves to kill BBA. Lasts 1 - 1 1/2 years in Nanos.
Cost: $0.033 / day
Then of course, the fertilizers themselves when you switch over to them, each 500 ml bottle will last about a year in a nano tank (I had one bottle of Brighty K, Step 1 and Step 2 last about 2 years across three different tanks. But we'll just say each $20 bottle will last 1 year to be conservative.
Cost: $0.05 / day between 4 total fertilizers (i'd just do Brighty K, Step 1 then buy Step 2 later, then Step 3 down the road.
So your daily cost to run the TOTAL ADA system would be: $0.18 / day and $4 per layout (well, $20 per layout if you did all the substrate additives).
P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!