Whitespots, but not ich? - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 02:50 AM Thread Starter
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Just read the linked thread, is Quick Cure a bad idea?

I can still take it back.
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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 02:50 AM
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You really need to treat the main tank; the ich will be all in the substrate at this point and continue to infest your fish.

Only other way will be to remove every single one of your fish into a QT tank, treat the fish, and wait a month before moving any fish at all back into the main tank. This will give all the ich time to die off from lack of hosts in the main tank.

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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lauraleellbp View Post
Only other way will be to remove every single one of your fish into a QT tank, treat the fish, and wait a month before moving any fish at all back into the main tank. This will give all the ich time to die off from lack of hosts in the main tank.
This is what I'm planning actually, I should have been more specific.
Thanks for watching out for me, though
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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 06:28 AM
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Just read the linked thread, is Quick Cure a bad idea?

I can still take it back.
I haven't used this, but it is a formalin/malachite green combo. Be careful with concentration. Kordon's Final concentration is 15ppm(15mg/L) of Formalin and 0.05ppm of Malachite Green.

Aerate the tank. The combination of formalin and high temps during treatment will cause a decrease in dissolved oxygen.

A month quarantine is probably unnecessary. Without a fish host, the parasite, and all life stages will die. Quarantining plants for 3-5 days is a good idea not to introduce cysts to your main set up.

I like this site: http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/ich.shtml
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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 10:03 AM
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The Wetspot has Ich Attack. It's on the shelves where the dechlorinator and what not are located. I think it's waist high or lower and over to the right.

I've used the new Maracide at half strength for twice the dosage period with mild stress to plants.

I've used a full dose with moderate stress to plants.


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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 12:03 PM
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I don't think it takes a month Laura. I'm pretty sure the parasite is dead within days if it doesn't reattach. I dunno I'd have to check on that one. Anyway, that's what I do, remove who's infected and their species mates only, and watch the rest in the meantime. After a few weeks and no one else becomes infected, the cured and QT'd ich fish go back in. Has worked that way every time without a hitch, no reinfection. Maybe it's the fisherman in me and I just like to wrangle them up, or it's just that whenever I see a sickly fish in my display tank, my first instinct is to get that nasty sucker out.
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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 03:12 PM
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Thanks for the help everyone.

I couldn't find any Ich attack, and ended up with Quick Cure.
Which means I am stuck catching the fish and treating in a second tank.

I am so not looking forward to catching these guys
PetsMart carries Ich Attack.
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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 02:37 AM
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I don't think it takes a month Laura. I'm pretty sure the parasite is dead within days if it doesn't reattach. I dunno I'd have to check on that one. Anyway, that's what I do, remove who's infected and their species mates only, and watch the rest in the meantime. After a few weeks and no one else becomes infected, the cured and QT'd ich fish go back in. Has worked that way every time without a hitch, no reinfection. Maybe it's the fisherman in me and I just like to wrangle them up, or it's just that whenever I see a sickly fish in my display tank, my first instinct is to get that nasty sucker out.
Once the trophs hatch out, yes, only a few days - but to make sure that they all have time to rotate through the entire life cycle, a month is what I'd do. Especially if the OP isn't planning on increasing the tank temps much b/c of the plants.

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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
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I returned the Quick Cure for Ich Attack, which I didn't see my first pass through the store.

All the fish took being transferred well, so I don't want to compromise their health with toxic chemicals if there is a better option!

We are in the first day of treatment, so we shall see how it goes.

In case anyone is wondering, these micro rasboras are extremely inquisitive fish. Catching them was a dream come true, I just placed the net in the tank, and they swam right in
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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 06:13 AM
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What plants do you have in there anyway? Raising the temp to 31C for 2 days is enough to get rid of ich, then lower it to 29-30 of another 3-4 days. Always treated mine this way.
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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by lauraleellbp View Post
Once the trophs hatch out, yes, only a few days - but to make sure that they all have time to rotate through the entire life cycle, a month is what I'd do. Especially if the OP isn't planning on increasing the tank temps much b/c of the plants.
At 70F it takes 4 weeks for the Ich life-cycle, but only takes 5 days at 80F. Some claim that Ich can't withstand temperatures of ~85F, but I've also read that this doesn't kill all parasites. I would slowly raise tank to ~82F, clean the filter and aquarium of organic material (leave plants, but siphon out debris and replace filter media leaving biological filtration intact), and treat with a form/mal combo every 24-48 hr with a ~50% water change before each treatment. Do two additional treatments after all white spots are gone (most important part). How long you treat will depend on the extremity of the infection. Early detection is best, and I've only had to treat 3-5 treatments.

Good luck. I think everyone runs into this at some point, and there is data that shows fish build immunity (somewhat) to ich after infection.
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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 08:15 PM
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Just out of curiosity, I wonder what condition the water was in when the disease started? Ph, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. ect.
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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 08:46 PM
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Just out of curiosity, I wonder what condition the water was in when the disease started? Ph, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. ect.
Ich has to be introduced into the aquarium and will die without a host. So the saying that it's always present and can arise when water conditions are poor is a myth, those people are likely overlooking something. Bacterial infections do work that way but not any parasitics that I can think of. Camallanus can fester internally and go unnoticed for awhile, appearing to come out of nowhere.
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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Just out of curiosity, I wonder what condition the water was in when the disease started? Ph, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. ect.
I don't measure any parameters once a tank is established.
I am positive the ich rode in on the brigittae. It did take a month for them to show any outward signs, so I'm guessing my water quality is pretty good
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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ich has to be introduced into the aquarium and will die without a host. So the saying that it's always present and can arise when water conditions are poor is a myth, those people are likely overlooking something. Bacterial infections do work that way but not any parasitics that I can think of. Camallanus can fester internally and go unnoticed for awhile, appearing to come out of nowhere.
It seems very possible to me that ich can be persistently present in many of our tanks. If the fish are healthy enough to fight of 99.99% of the parasites, it could exist as nothing more than an extremely mild irritant with no outward signs until the fish become stressed and more susceptible to an outbreak.

That is just a personal theory though, I have no evidence to back it up!
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