CURRENT SPECS 20G-long Fluval Shrimp Stratum SunSun Cannister Filter (fully cycled already) Coralife Light (med/low light for low tech tank) Large Sponge Filter Manzanita Java Fern Xmas Moss Peacock Moss Frogbit (and prob Duck Weed, but not if I can help it!). Cholla Tubes IAL
Water will be RO reminerialized with Nutrifin Cichlid Conditioner (as per Speedie)
Am I missing anything? I really want these guys to do well. They're my first expensive shrimp.
This is true… The FSS will buffer your ph around 6.8-7.0 depending on how hard the water is. The Amazonia substrate will allow you to go lower in the ph.
If you can afford it, ditch FSS and get something that will hold up and provide better buffering power.
ADA Aquasoil, UP Aqua Shrimp Sand, Azoo Plant Grower Bed, among others.
Be sure to search around the forum to see what everyone uses as a remineralizing product. There are several that are great and clean. Shirakura Ca+, Mosura Mineral Plus Ultra, Salty Shrimp, etc.
I'd let the tank run 4-6 weeks - even if it's cycled - to make sure there are tons of goodies ready when the shrimp arrive.
Liam says that a cause for Taiwan Bee deaths is long gestation periods. There was something else too, but I forgot. Anyway, I would get some Mosura Gravidas because I tried it because it claimed to help berried shrimp not drop their eggs, and it actually worked! Now I have 4 berried CRS (out of 9) and there were two OEBT females that berried, but they never did before.
It's RO water, so soft as soft can be (my tap water is practically RO too). I’m trying to achieve the params Speedie is keeping them at (hence using the same remineralizer and aiming of a close to neutral pH).
Everyone has their own opinion of keeping Taiwan bees. I'm just keeping them in similar params as my source. If you follow what I've advised you, you'll be just fine.
Of course you can change it up and do your own methods as folks give you their advice, but that just means your shrimp will have to readapt even more. There's def more than one way to skin a cat.
My Amazonia brings my pH down under 6. I heard that the new Amazonia buffers around the same as Africana/ Malaya too? Anyway, a lot of people have had success with Amazonia but there are mixed reviews on FSS.
Amazonia NEW or ADA Africana and PH under 6 for breeding. PH under 6.7 for keeping them alive. You can add peat moss to lover PH but it is not permanent solution.
Ph drop with Amazonia is depending on your starting conditions as I have found some bags stronger than others it is currently dropping my 7.4 tap tds 30 I remineralize it to gh 5 tds 150 to 5.1-4.8
I'm aiming for pH 7, as that's what Speedie keeps/breeds his at and I want to try and match my tank as closely to his and his breeder’s as possible. If I use ADA AS, my pH plunges to like 5 and I have to use coral to bring it back up, and it's never "steady". Total PITA. Hence my decision to try the FSS, which many people, including Somewhatshocked, have had good results with. The tank I’m putting them in HAS 1 year old ADA AS in it now, so I could just leave that, rescape for the BKK, and not even bother with the FSS. Decisions, decisions…
I like Fluval Shrimp Stratum because it's cheap and available all over the place. But if I had to pick a substrate for TBs, it would be Aquasoil.
Aside from buffering capacity (I'm not a fan of a pH of 7 for TBs but stability is more important than anything, regardless of parameters), Aquasoil gives you more flexibility for plants. Much easier to keep low maintenance plants healthy in AS than it is in other, less nutrient-packed substrates and you don't have to worry about root tabs for a long time.
I can just leave the Aquasoil I have in there then. Makes life even easier. No need to pull out the million chain swords! I'll just rescape a bit and tidy up. THANKS!
Yep. The wisdom of the forum continues ... I don't know why I was obsessed with a "clean slate" on the tank. Leaving the AS is just so much easier and smarter.
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