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**plantbrain** · 12-05-2005, 05:56 PM

I've used MDF for about 20 years making stands for up to 300gal, no studs or extra support was ever needed depending on the design you use.
I've always used framing ties(cents), these are much cheaper than angles(dollars). I use a water proof white primer and do 2-3 coats, then add the paint.

If you hit the paint with a good clear ployurethene, the water will never be an issue and the other added benefit, it looks nice/and makes cleaning it much easier.

I typically make the stand top larger than the tank about 1" to 3" lip, then make the base the same as the tank's size. I cut a door hole in the front and and read access hole in the back.

It is heavy, but it's extremely strong.

I do not suggest MDF for hoods, they weigh too much IMO, use the 1/4" popular etc, it's ligth and much more suitable.

Regards,
Tom Barr

12-05-2005, 05:56 PM	#16 (permalink)
plantbrain Planted Tank Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (43) Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: The swamp Posts: 3,807	I've used MDF for about 20 years making stands for up to 300gal, no studs or extra support was ever needed depending on the design you use. I've always used framing ties(cents), these are much cheaper than angles(dollars). I use a water proof white primer and do 2-3 coats, then add the paint. If you hit the paint with a good clear ployurethene, the water will never be an issue and the other added benefit, it looks nice/and makes cleaning it much easier. I typically make the stand top larger than the tank about 1" to 3" lip, then make the base the same as the tank's size. I cut a door hole in the front and and read access hole in the back. It is heavy, but it's extremely strong. I do not suggest MDF for hoods, they weigh too much IMO, use the 1/4" popular etc, it's ligth and much more suitable. Regards, Tom Barr