9w Diy led for nano - The Planted Tank Forum

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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Cool 9w Diy led for nano

Hi guys, just sharing this led fixture i made.

i use on of this to put the leds together



used

6 leds 6500k

2 leds 10000k

1 led full spectrum

90 degree lens


the housing





after some test, it was necessary to add some cooling other than pasive with the heatsink



how it looks on



this is how it look on the tank, its a small and new tank so i just put plants from my other tanks to help with cycle.




so far so good by now.

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 05:36 PM
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Excellent job. Can you give an idea of the cost of the components?
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 05:51 PM
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Excellent job. Can you give an idea of the cost of the components?

sorry, probably shouldn't but in here but since most of the shown components I've bought at one time or another..

Somewhere around $30 is my guess..
diodes are under $1 each usually .
heatsink $6
chinese driver $12

Of course any changes in components or suppliers and price changes ..
does not include can, wire, thermal paste or circuit board..

all can be had at the worlds marketplace..

sorry, carry on..

Oh to the OP NICE job..A Kessil clone at 10% the cost..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent job. Can you give an idea of the cost of the components?
hi and thank you,

most of what i used was from leftovers from projects i did before, so will try to give you and estimate.

what there is currently in the lamp, less than 20 usd

mats:

90 degree lens 10 usd for 50 pcs

bridgelux full spectrum led are like 18.00 usd fo 30pcs

6500k led bridgelux for 10 usd for 50pcs

10,000k leds =~ 8 usd for 50 pcs

round heatsink plate 4 usd for 2pcs

recycled computer heatsink 3"

3" PCV pipe 3 usd

recycled computer mini fans

32v hp printer power supply recycled also, i used no driver but this insted, this made a very constant a good power supply for series of 9 leds each.


hope this help you.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 07:21 PM
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Not questioning the value of the fans as you are doing it and know best, but how did you determine the need? By a standard inches per watt, etc. or feeling/measuring the temperature?
My reason for asking was that I recently built a small light and started without a good idea of what amount of heat to expect. I used a temperature probe and set what I thought would work. For future work, I would like a better method. I may never need to know but it can always be helpful.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Not questioning the value of the fans as you are doing it and know best, but how did you determine the need? By a standard inches per watt, etc. or feeling/measuring the temperature?
My reason for asking was that I recently built a small light and started without a good idea of what amount of heat to expect. I used a temperature probe and set what I thought would work. For future work, I would like a better method. I may never need to know but it can always be helpful.
well, i don't have a "method" to determine or some complicated math at all, when test it without the fans the temperature of the computer heatsink will burn at touch can't hold the finger in there for a sec, normally i use a laser temperature gun meter, i always want to keep the temperature below 50c in my DIY lamps , leds last longer too, why did i use 2 fan in here, just to use the most voltage of my power supply, each fan are 12v, and i have a 32v power supply, if i put em in series i will need 24v leaving me 8v that i can kill with a resistance.

so pretty much i measure with the temperature gun (really helpful) or "if can hold it without being burn" hehe, some of the lamps ive done have no fans, but there is much more metal to care off the heat.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by androsk View Post
well, i don't have a "method" to determine or some complicated math at all, when test it without the fans the temperature of the computer heatsink will burn at touch can't hold the finger in there for a sec, normally i use a laser temperature gun meter, i always want to keep the temperature below 50c in my DIY lamps , leds last longer too, why did i use 2 fan in here, just to use the most voltage of my power supply, each fan are 12v, and i have a 32v power supply, if i put em in series i will need 24v leaving me 8v that i can kill with a resistance.

so pretty much i measure with the temperature gun (really helpful) or "if can hold it without being burn" hehe, some of the lamps ive done have no fans, but there is much more metal to care off the heat.
interesting that you put the fans in series w/ the diodes..

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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interesting that you put the fans in series w/ the diodes..
its not with the diodes, they are in their own series, but in the same power supply.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 10:18 PM
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Good enough! Got to love a guy that can do a bit of thinking and then adjust if it is needed>>>
Sounds much like the way I did mine. I had the too hot to touch going and moved it out of the wood further but then I had a temperature probe handy and stuck it in between the fins on the heat sink and felt better about it. When touching it felt much hotter than the temperature I measured. It was only a $4-5 led and sink so not much to risk but I did not want to redesign the whole mount if I burned it and needed to reuse some other parts.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-23-2015, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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When touching it felt much hotter than the temperature I measured.
the probe must be the kind used more for liquids, anyways if does not burn you on touch its good enough
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-24-2015, 12:09 AM
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anyways if does not burn you on touch its good enough
Oddly enough that really isn't far from the truth, but excess heat will shorten the life of the phosphors..and diodes:



That said if you can keep your hand on the fixture and not get burned it is cool enough, for the most part.
localized heating can be much higher though w/ poor thermal transfer from the diode to the heatsink..
In that respect you may be able to hold the heatsink but if you could put your finger on the small spot
behind the diode it would be different story.

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 10-24-2015 at 12:28 AM. Reason: edit
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-24-2015, 03:49 AM
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If your fans fail with an open circuit won't you burn out your leds.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-24-2015, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Oddly enough that really isn't far from the truth, but excess heat will shorten the life of the phosphors..and diodes:



That said if you can keep your hand on the fixture and not get burned it is cool enough, for the most part.
localized heating can be much higher though w/ poor thermal transfer from the diode to the heatsink..
In that respect you may be able to hold the heatsink but if you could put your finger on the small spot
behind the diode it would be different story.

100% agree with you, what why when i solder the leds to the plate (9 leds from 1st picture) i triple check the thermal compound is not that much or to low, i use usually arctic silver (computer uses) and then again when i screw that heatsink plate to the computer heatsink has arctic silver too.

if the computer heatsink getting that hot doesn't mean the heat transfer is good enough. that why i always try to keep em below 50c degrees.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano85 View Post
If your fans fail with an open circuit won't you burn out your leds.
usually when fans fail they don't spin, or spin slow, but the coil keep the flow of current running so the serie's should work, so if one fail the other one will keep it cool and give me enough time to find a replace.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-24-2015, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by androsk View Post
100% agree with you, what why when i solder the leds to the plate (9 leds from 1st picture) i triple check the thermal compound is not that much or to low, i use usually arctic silver (computer uses) and then again when i screw that heatsink plate to the computer heatsink has arctic silver too.

if the computer heatsink getting that hot doesn't mean the heat transfer is good enough. that why i always try to keep em below 50c degrees.
you certainly understand it well enough but the whole process is quite complicated on a real physics level. Most of the complications have to do w/ not knowing many of the real physical factors such as thermal transfer rate (actual) of the specific heat sink you are using. Even different types of aluminum are different in thermal transfer coefficients...

Of course using fans mitigates a lot of the problems.

Point is if the heat sink temp is recorded the actual temp the diode is at can be 10-30C hotter. That is what plays into the lifespan part. Of course as a DIY and diodes at under $1 each a shorter lifespan is really not important, to a degree...

How to calculate your LED heat sink

As I understand it you have die to base: base to heatsink compound:
Heatsink compound to heatsink and last heatsink to air.

Each having some resistance to heat transfer..

So what ever your heatsink temp is you are pretty much guaranteed your die temp is higher, no matter how you cool it short of ice or refrigeration of course.
Sometimes much higher than you may think..

with fans all you do is make sure that the heatsink doesn't become "saturated" as you would in a free air arrangement and allows more effective transfer of heat..

I ignored for the most part the role in the ambient air plays in this but that really is the more crucial with a contained light or fan-less ones (where ambient could come close to heat sink temp thus slowing greatly any heat transfer) than a more open frame and of course the fact that rooms are rarely above 90 degrees F in my world..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."

Last edited by jeffkrol; 10-24-2015 at 05:12 AM. Reason: edit
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-24-2015, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
you certainly understand it well enough but the whole process is quite complicated on a real physics level. Most of the complications have to do w/ not knowing many of the real physical factors such as thermal transfer rate (actual) of the specific heat sink you are using. Even different types of aluminum are different in thermal transfer coefficients...

Of course using fans mitigates a lot of the problems.

Point is if the heat sink temp is recorded the actual temp the diode is at can be 10-30C hotter. That is what plays into the lifespan part. Of course as a DIY and diodes at under $1 each a shorter lifespan is really not important, to a degree...

How to calculate your LED heat sink

As I understand it you have die to base: base to heatsink compound:
Heatsink compound to heatsink and last heatsink to air.

Each having some resistance to heat transfer..

So what ever your heatsink temp is you are pretty much guaranteed your die temp is higher, no matter how you cool it short of ice or refrigeration of course.
Sometimes much higher than you may think..

with fans all you do is make sure that the heatsink doesn't become "saturated" as you would in a free air arrangement and allows more effective transfer of heat..

I ignored for the most part the role in the ambient air plays in this but that really is the more crucial with a contained light or fan-less ones (where ambient could come close to heat sink temp thus slowing greatly any heat transfer) than a more open frame and of course the fact that rooms are rarely above 90 degrees F in my world..

ohh yeah at physics level, great page tho, thanks, to much for a DIY fixture man... this one have the physics laws of a bollywood movie.
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