Post pics of your DIY stands - Page 26 - The Planted Tank Forum

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post #376 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 01:11 AM
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My cheapo stand for 20 gal

Find 2 pallets. Break pallets apart. Salvage the best pieces of wood. Cut & assemble. Took about 2 hours, and hardest part was breaking the pallets apart without destroying the wood. Cost about $5 for screws. No stain, or finish, just plain industrial look.
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post #377 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 02:03 AM
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my new 55g stand.


30 in high and built in light on the top need to get a pic of it finished
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post #378 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 06:32 AM
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6ft 125G Stand










The stand under the 40B is getting the back of it covered in plywood, i am also going to cover the sides in plywood. Going to put 2 shelves in there, one traveling the full width of the stand the other only going half way across leaving room for my XP3.

The 6FT stand is going to get a full plywood and trim job. Ive still got to add in the center brace for the front. It will have 2 or 4 doors, havent decided yet.
Both stands will be spray painted with high gloss black.
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post #379 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 05:35 AM
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my flatback hex build

Friend of mine gave me this 40g flatback hex tank- it ws in pretty rough shape so I cleaned it up and resealed it.
Decided to go saltwater, but after finding out i didnt have enough room for an adequate sump I needed to figure out a way to hide the protien skimmer hanging off the back of the tank.
Solution: I flipped the tank around and used the flat back as the display side, and the protien skimmer fit nicely on the angled side of the hex front.
I used 2x4's for the frame, and wrapped it in 3/4 inch birch. Its my forst attempt at a DIY stand but everything seems to be coming together nicely- I even managed to build the doors from ripped scraps of the birch-
Heres my progress so far:

Frame:








SKimmer fit!

Dry fit:





Doors:



Side cutout:



Will post more as I complete her...
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post #380 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 06:01 AM
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I see a big big biggggg flaw in your stand.


Your aquarium is not being supported by wood, it is being supported by screws or nails.
You need to ad 6 possibly 10 more 2x4s to the outside of each leg and center brace.
This will put wood inbetween the top frame and the bottom frame instead of on the inside or outside of the bottom or top frame.

You can ad 2 2x4's to each corner which will ad a tremendous amount of strength.



Take a look at my framework and everyone else's framework. You will see what i am talking about.
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post #381 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 04:21 PM
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EB has a good point. You overbuilt nicely, if those are screws and not nails, but all the weight is just held up by scews. At minimum put a 3/4 plywood sheet over the top, under the tank, with screws into all the horizontal beams wood every 4 inches. That would tighten everything considerably.
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post #382 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 10:33 PM
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This is very important to do, as stated by ElectricBlue. The extra pieces need to be in at least 6, preferably 8 places, so there is a direct wood load path from top frame to bottom frame.

Hoppy
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post #383 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 12:48 AM
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Hopefully he hasnt filled the tank with water yet.



I see he is new here, just trying to help him out and save him from having a disaster.
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post #384 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 12:52 AM
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This stand will be just fine with only a piece of ply on the top. Securing it with screws to the joists. There are six uprights supporting the weight of the tank, plus the side panels (make sure these screwed to frame as well). This is assuming you used screws throughout the build.
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post #385 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 01:36 AM
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A nailed or screwed together joint will not withstand a load that tries to shear off the screws or nails. What will happen is the wood will fail in compression along the sides of the fasteners, allowing the wood piece to shift position to ease the load. Eventually, the stand will fail as a result. (Or the tank will be supported unevenly and it will fail.) It just isn't worth the risk, given how easy it is to fix it.

You can drive apart two nailed or screwed together boards by hammering on the edge of one board. It gradually moves down until the screws break or the nails bend enough to release the joint.

Hoppy
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post #386 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 03:34 AM
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Yep i totally see your point EB. It shouldnt be hard to cut a few 2x4's and get them in there, thank god for kreg jigs cause if I had glued that sucker there would be no way out. I did have the tank filled with water in the garage for about a week LOL- was leak testing the seals.

Great advice all the way around- thats the reason I posted here! thanks guys!
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post #387 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 03:50 AM
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Here is my DIY stand it's 18" x 18" and was built from edge joined panels of Aspen it went together really easy and hit the look I wanted which was all the hardware (hinges & knobs) hidden.





Len
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post #388 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 04:24 AM
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Hey Len, did you make your copper tube light support too? I really like it. If you did, how about a closeup of the hardware used to suspend the light fixture? Pretty Please? lol
~ Cindy ~
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post #389 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 05:08 AM
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You need one more board - a "header" under the top front edge of the door. It can be glued in place, with no fasteners through the outer skin. Without that the front edge of the top will sag and make the door stick shut, and it leaves the front edge of the tank unsupported. I have had this problem more than once.

Hoppy
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post #390 of 607 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j_rizzo View Post
Yep i totally see your point EB. It shouldnt be hard to cut a few 2x4's and get them in there, thank god for kreg jigs cause if I had glued that sucker there would be no way out. I did have the tank filled with water in the garage for about a week LOL- was leak testing the seals.

Great advice all the way around- thats the reason I posted here! thanks guys!

Very wise choice on making the changes, will definitely save you from headache later on down the road.


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