diy 1500 par capable fixure @20" - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2015, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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diy 1500 par capable fixure @20"

Ok guys, it seems silly. I know. Just thinking it would be a fun project to figure out. It's been a while since was familiar with current leds and drivers and would like to hear what would be some possible ways to do this. Big leds? More smaller? I don't have a ton of time to research everything at the moment so some time saving input would be awesome. Even if someone could link me to a calculator that would be great. Off the top of my head with no research involved, it looks like using xm-l2 emitters would be the way to go but I have no idea how'd you drive them.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2015, 09:14 PM
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1500 PAR?! Are you trying to replicate the surface of the sun?! Ha! Seriously, though why would you need that light intensity? I would think any plants underneath that sucker would erupt into flames and boiling steam. Maybe not, but is that even manageable?

I have an AQUARIUM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2015, 09:32 PM
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Skip the XM-L's, at 9000+ lumens each, these could hit the 1500 PAR mark easily- http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...=0&pageSize=25

225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ twin Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters.Lighting- Custom built DIY 600 watt LED system, BlueFish "mini" Led Controller,iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2015, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fishhes View Post
1500 PAR?! Are you trying to replicate the surface of the sun?! Ha! Seriously, though why would you need that light intensity? I would think any plants underneath that sucker would erupt into flames and boiling steam. Maybe not, but is that even manageable?
That's not the point of this thread. I'm just curious as to how to do it.

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Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
Skip the XM-L's, at 9000+ lumens each, these could hit the 1500 PAR mark easily- http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...=0&pageSize=25
I can't seem to find the color maps for these. And how would drive them?

What I'm really wanting to do here is have my light mounted roughly 7'(mounted to ceiling - not hung) above a 4'x4'x2' tank.

Last edited by OG_Plantmore; 01-04-2015 at 10:48 PM. Reason: added
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2015, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG_Plantmore View Post

I can't seem to find the color maps for these. And how would drive them?

What I'm really wanting to do here is have my light mounted roughly 7'(mounted to ceiling - not hung) above a 4'x4'x2' tank.
BridgeLux didn't release the color spectrum chart for the 5600K- 90 CRI version of this led array. From what I've read, the spectral distribution is similar to the 2700K- 97 CRI "Decor" version. You'd need a driver capable of 38V and 2,000ma - 3000ma to power this array properly. Optics would be needed to compensate for the 7' mounting height you mentioned, but Ledil corp should have something available. Check with the fine folks over at Digikey, they should have everything you'll need.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2015, 09:29 PM
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I've seen something similar to this over on some reef forums. I dont know much about it but I do know it can be done with success. From what I recall they were using the smaller LEDs with many of them, plus then some tight optics to focus the light straight down rather than spread.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2015, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fishguy306 View Post
I've seen something similar to this over on some reef forums. I dont know much about it but I do know it can be done with success. From what I recall they were using the smaller LEDs with many of them, plus then some tight optics to focus the light straight down rather than spread.
the Vero's were really designed for this type of situation, more so than small ind. diodes.. 20 degree optics would be a starting point for that height and footprint ..
THAT said you are limited to spectrum.. (had to get that in there for O2)

At this point it is more architectural lighting than aquarium..

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2015, 10:10 PM
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I dont mean to sound like I'm contradicting O2, from what I have seen (s)he knows much, much more than I do in this regard. Just sharing what I have seen on another forum. In any case it seems like a very cool project I would like to see done.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2015, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fishguy306 View Post
I dont mean to sound like I'm contradicting O2, from what I have seen (s)he knows much, much more than I do in this regard. Just sharing what I have seen on another forum. In any case it seems like a very cool project I would like to see done.
No it is a good idea, and more than possible..just a lot harder..

like starting with this:


Quote:
Cool White X1 pin1 -> X2 pin6 1000ma 10.8V CCT:8300-10000K Semileds C35L-W0-A,122-130lm @ 350mA, 3pcs Blue X1 pin2 ->
X2 pin5 1000ma 3.6V 460-470nm Semileds C35L-BN-A, 30.6-35.2lm @ 350mA Turquois X1 pin3 ->
X2 pin4 1000ma 3.6V 510-520nm Semileds C35L-CN-A, 73.9-80.6lm @ 350mA Neutral White X1 pin4 ->
X2 pin3 1000ma 10.8V CCT:3700-4300K Semileds C35L-W1-A, 122-130lm @ 350mA, 3pcs Red X1 pin5 ->
X2 pin2 700ma 2.8V 620-630nm Semileds C35L-R, 51.7lm up @ 350mA Cool White X1 pin6 -> X2 pin1 1000ma 10.8V CCT:8300-10000K Semileds C35L-W0-A,122-130lm @ 350mA, 3pcs -


See more at: http://reefll.com/index.php?route=pr....gZ1pHe1z.dpuf

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 01-05-2015 at 10:59 PM. Reason: multicolor
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks folks. Looks like I'm gonna have to do my homework anyway. Hahaha
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by OG_Plantmore View Post
Thanks folks. Looks like I'm gonna have to do my homework anyway. Hahaha
simplest thing is just a bunch of can lights.. (Track lighting would work as well..

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/11...P3850KNFL.html

Staying 5000-6500k will keep you "white"..
As to measuring PAR.. not really a lot of measurements from those distances..


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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2015, 03:21 PM
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With one Bridgelux BXRA-40E1350-00 and four Luxeon M royal blue, all at 1A (32 watts for the NW, 48 watts for the royals), using Ledil Brooke-W (50 degrees) and Minnie WWW (74 degrees), at 13" PAR was 1518.




With narrower reflectors (26 and 24 degrees, respectively), PAR increased to over 2300 at the same distance, and I suspect that the light wasn't completely blended at that distance so going lower might have increased that reading.

I would still love to do a 'clam fuge' one day since Tridacna clams do not really have a photosaturation point.


In Amber Clad – a 40g reef
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2015, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
what i'm really wanting to do here is have my light mounted roughly 7' (mounted to ceiling - not hung) above a 4'x4'x2' tank.
important info...

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2015, 04:51 PM
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With 108" working distance and 1500 PAR necessary at 20", you will end up with ~51 PAR at the bottom of the tank.


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