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post #31 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-07-2014, 05:04 PM
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Are there any devices for the aquarium that uses the Analog write pins?
OOps, nevermind. Analog write is pwm.

I can see a sensor using analog read.

I'm building a controller myself using the arduino but web based.

Last edited by mistergreen; 03-07-2014 at 06:07 PM. Reason: +
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post #32 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-08-2014, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiefston View Post
Fluffles,
I did look into that. With the changes in Arduino 1.0, when they made the millis() an unsigned long, as long as you subtract the previous millis from the current millis, the math works out so that you need not worry about rollover. Or at least thats what I've gathered from reading some posts. I am not entirely positive about that, but thats my understanding

edit: Here is a link explaining. There are many articles explaining this in excruciating detail if you care to read
Working with arduino millis (Easy)
Arduino playground explanation in excruciating detail
Wow, thank you! I didn't know that unsigned long would take care of it. Seems like a very easy and elegant solution to the rollover.
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post #33 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-08-2014, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Box updates

So, I've been working on the project box. I have everything drilled out now, which makes me pretty happy! Now I need to start the final wiring

Top of the box. I have a hole cutout for the fan, which is blowing air out, and the speaker grill which i just drilled a ton of holes for



The front of the box. Here are the pumps and some DIN connectors. The DIN connectors have 5 wires a piece, as well as a gnd if you wanted to use that. 15 connections should be enough for what I'm doing



Here is the USB extension, in case I need to fix some code or add something to it


And the inside of the box as stands. I still need to place the arduino, motor shield, and the perf board in there, but it should all fit easily.
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post #34 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-08-2014, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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More build pics

So, I have the 120v wiring done, and everything has been test fitted. Here are some more build pics for you guys.

Close-up of the back of the plugs. All the neutral and ground wires are ran together in parallel. The hot wire goes from the inlet plug, to the SSR's, and then back to the outlet plug hot terminals.




Here I have the fan and speaker mounted. You can see the DIN connectors up top, ready to be soldered to.



Here is a closeup of the SSR's. I have one side of the 120v all tied together to the main hot, then the other side of them goes to the outlet plugs. These SSR's are entirely overkill, they are 220v/25A. The most power I will be drawing is from the 200W Hydor heater, and at 120v that only pulls 1.67A. The Finnex Ray 2's are 20W lights, which pull .67A. The Eheim 2217 is also 20W, and pulls the same. The CO2 solenoid is so weak, it doesn't even manage to pull the minimum required current to make the SSR work properly! I tested it out, and it sure enough, it did not work Instead it gets a reed relay from RadioShack.



And finally, everythings final resting place. The perf board will get many more things added to it. It needs the relay for the CO2, the resistor for the thermistor, two potentiometers (one for the speaker volume, one for the LCD contrast), and a transistor to control the LCD backlight with PWM.



After this is completed, then I get to cut a hole in my stand. I am very worried that I will screw up making the hole for the display...
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post #35 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-08-2014, 01:43 PM
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There are many ways to cut a square hole in wood. You may want to practice on a piece of scrap. A router pattern cutting bit works well. A full size router may be too big but a 1/4 trim router is very easy to handle. Harbor Freight sells them very cheap.

I had tried a saber saw to cut the pattern or hole out, but could never cut an absolutely straight line. My solution was to cut rectangles of thin wood on a table saw to make a pattern. Then I would run the router base or pattern bit along the straight wood.

Hope this helps,
Joe

Repairing 120XH, building a LED light
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post #36 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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Update

Joe,
I have a dremel with the router attachment... It has a straight edge guide, so thats what I'll be using! Hopefully I don't ruin the cabinet, or make it look awful. My woodworking skills are terrible enough as is, that I dont need obvious screw-ups making things worse

I did get some more wiring done today. Wiring this thing is rather tedious... It was much easier just plugging stuff into the breadboard. Oh well, it'll be worth it when I'm done

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post #37 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 03:52 AM
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Sweet.

You do have separate misspelled however

Dilution is the solution for the pollution.
Quote me as saying I was misquoted.
Once you get rid of integrity the rest is a piece of cake.
Here's to our wives and sweethearts - may they never meet.
If you agreed with me we'd both be right.
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post #38 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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My big screwup

So, I made a pretty huge mistake.
The way I built the box, with the plugs on the long side, leaves no room for the plugs to fit! When I mount the box inside the stand, there isn't enough room on the front and back to for the plugs in the back, and the din connectors in the front! I'm not really sure how I'm gonna go about getting around this. I could just cut holes in the back of the stand for the plugs to feed through, but then that still leaves the front of the box to shallow for the din connectors! I am very very disappointed in my gross oversight on this matter
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post #39 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 05:25 PM
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Yeah, I have no idea where I'd put my box either. I built a drawers for fert and fish food. I could clear that out.

Whats the din connector for? I'm planning to use Ethernet rj connectors. Those wires can bend easily in tight spaces.


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post #40 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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mistergreen,
Ethernet connectors would work great for connecting the LCD display, I wish I would've thought of that! The RGB strips can pull up to 2.4 amps when using four 24" strips, if all of 3 colors are on full brightness. Even though I won't be keeping the strips on full blast, I don't want to risk melting wires.

I guess since the project enclosure box won't be seen, I can cut new holes for the outlets on the bottom, and I will just have huge holes in the back where they used to be. It will be ugly, but I think it will work. I'm not too enthused about ordering a new box and starting over...
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post #41 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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Stand work

Ok, so I attempted to salvage the project enclosure, but I eventually gave up and ordered a new box. I am SO angry with myself for not taking the time to check out obvious fit issues. It is just a painful lesson learned. Always take your time and do things right the first time!!

So, after pouting about that for awhile, I went ahead and tackled the cutout for the stand. All in all, I think I did pretty well for only having a Dremel tool to work with! Heres the final result:


And with the backlight off:


I ended up putting some window tint on the back of the window, which makes the window look nice, however it really dims down the LCD. It's not obvious in the pic, but you can see the overexposure above the stand. I think I will keep the tint on, but it may get taken off or replaced with some less dark tint in the future.


And heres some pics I took while working on it












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post #42 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 05:54 AM
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That's really cool! This is exactly what I plan on doing with my display. I'm happy to see it looks as good as I imagined it would!!!

What dremel attachment did you use to route out the area for the glass insert? Do they make a plunge router attachment?

Whiskey

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10G Arduino Controlled CRS Playground
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post #43 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Whiskey,
Yes, I used the plunge router attachment. I cut the hole for the LCD first, then used a 1/4" router bit set to the depth of the plexiglass. The plexi was 1/8" thick, and I set my router just a hair shallow of that. The Dremel plunge router isn't the greatest tool in the world, as there is a lot of play in it. However, it was great enough to get the job done. It just required a lot of patience and going slow. I had to re-rout the lip for the plexiglass like 3 times to get the depth right.
Also, I used 50% tint for the window, and I feel that is probably too dark. I would go with something a little less dark if you choose to go that route
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post #44 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 09:15 PM
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I just ordered the plunge router attachment and some bits! I am going to get a ton of use out of this little thing I think. I regularly have to spend way too much time doing something by hand that a little router would make a breeze.

Thanks,
Whiskey

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10G Arduino Controlled CRS Playground
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post #45 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Nice whiskey. The little dremel that could! I have competed quite a few projects with just a dremel and a handful of attachments. Good luck with it


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