Have a Spec V (tank journal
), but just not thrilled with the plastic lid that Fluval provides, and personally I have come to like LED bars right on a glass top - not up on brackets. Also thought that a wood base would help keep the shelf it is on from getting damaged, and look nice too.
Here is the final product, the steps in my very amateur woodworking are below
The stock tank for comparison (still on my wood base though):
Already had a handheld circular saw, drill and jigsaw, a chisel, and no-name small router (really a laminate trimmer, but it works)
A trip to Lowes, a 4' x 10" 'select' high grade pine board (pine, fir, something like that). You can get the base and the top out of one board. , cut to length with a circular saw, put a little bevel on the top with a small router, sand and finish with red chestnut stain, and rattle can Spar urethane satin (3 coats). Buff with really fine steel wool, little felt stick on feet/pads underneath keeps it slightly off the shelf. Tada! One Spec V stand with a fairly water resistant finish. Nice contrasting look too.
One hint - don't get an 8" wide board, it isn't wide enough. The Spec V plastic base is a little bigger than the tank and wood is measured in "before finishing" dimensions. your 8" board is under 7" by the time you buy it and not wide enough (found that out the hard way, started off with an 8" oak board)
The top: Cut the outside to size with circular saw, mark the inside to the INNER dimension of the hole, drill an access hole and cut out the rectangle with a jigsaw.
Using your router, put a flat lip on the inside, at curved relief area for the pump and heater cord, and I added a bevel to the outer top edge just for looks (all with roller guided bits). The inner lip to hold the glass needs square corners (the router leaves them round), cleaned them up with a chisel. I also cut a small groove with a handsaw for the light's power cord to lay in.
Same stain as the base, a day to dry. 4 or 5 coats of spray Spar Urethane, dry for a couple of days and buff with really fine steel wool.
Now a trip to Home Depot - get a replacement window pane glass. I'm very comfortable cutting glass (used to do stained glass) so I got one too big and cut it. Cheap - like $3. (Note to any other glass people, that Kobalt glass cutter from Loews is a piece of crap) You can also go to Lowes (I think the cut to size for free) or any glass shop - just be sure your measurements are right on. If I was doing this over I would get the glass cut and put the edges on BEFORE I stained the wood, just in case it is a little off
So I cut mine to size, and put these black edges on - they are car door edge molding, a small pack of 2 strips was only like $4 at AutoZone. Since the glass doesn't have polished edges I didn't want them to show (or cut me when working on the tank). It is a bit of work to get them on - I worked the groove open with a metal edge before working it on to the glass edge. If the black edging were warmer it might have been easier.
I didn't attached it to the wood, it just lays in the groove. Totally by accident mine is just snug enough to hold it in place.
Take the bracket off the stock light (it's just a few little screws holding the light halves together)