Why don't people use 1 kh solution? - The Planted Tank Forum

 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Why don't people use 1 kh solution?

I find it hard to tell different colors of green as I'm sure others do also. Why don't more people use 1 kh solution which will give you bright yellow at 30 ppm?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 12:28 AM
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Yeah happens if you accidentally have 60ppm of co2?
You still get yellow.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Yea true but if 30 ppm is ideal and the drop checker is yellow and your fish are showing no signs of co2 poisoning. Why should the rest matter?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 02:16 AM
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go for it. it's up to you.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
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It sounds a lot easier I just wanted to run it by y'all to make sure it was right. So with 1 kh 30 is yellow.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 04:11 AM
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You can run multiple drop checkers and different kH solutions for more precise measurements due to overlap if you want to. I wouldn't keep them in all the time because it'd look stupid, but to dial in your CO2 it could be helpful for you.

Personally, I'd rather run 4 kH for the same reason as mistergreen, and also because I run really light green or yellow most of the time anyway. I only use my to check from time to time, but I don't leave them in.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 04:40 AM
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Actually this are advantages to using 1 dKH water: Yellow is an easy color for most of us to see accurately. At yellow you know you have enough, but possibly too much CO2. So, you increase the bubble rate slowly, until you get yellow after about 2 hours. Now, slightly increase the bubble rate, watch the fish and plants for a couple of days or so. If the fish cluster at the top, usually near a corner, lay on the substrate or lose their color, you have too much for the fish. If the plants improve in growth, or have more pearling with the increase, they may do even better with more. So, slightly increase the bubble rate again and repeat the observing and reacting until an increase shows no improvement in the plants. You are then as high in CO2 as you need to be. Maintain that bubble rate and all should be well, until you do a major pruning job, which will probably reduce the plants' need for CO2.

When I was experimenting with drop checkers I found I liked using 1.7 dKH water. That turns yellow at around 45 ppm, so you can shoot for "not quite yellow", and still have the ability to see "really yellow". I found that to be easier for me than judging various shades of green.

Hoppy

Last edited by Hoppy; 09-17-2013 at 05:05 AM. Reason: added information
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 02:14 PM
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Check out this site which shows you how to set up dual drop checkers to more accurately reflect your co2 levels. It's pretty sweet.

http://dropcheck.petalphile.com/
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 02:53 PM
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Dual drop checkers is a pretty good idea.

Some people are color blind and green won't register.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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That's sweet!!! Now I just need another drop checker. The 2nd one I bought doesn't have a white background so its really hard to see
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 03:26 PM
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I have used two drop checkers and found it added nothing to the accuracy. You are still stuck with trying to judge greens, something that isn't easy, at least for me. Switching the "trigger" color to yellow worked much better for me.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 04:27 PM
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I still think they cause more problems than they solve.
But the KH reference and pH indicator solution targets are arbitrary.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-20-2013, 09:05 PM
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Drop checkers don't accurately tell you how much CO2 you have in the water. What they can do very well is help those of us who are timid about gassing our fish with too much CO2, by giving us a way to see that we are adding enough CO2 to at least do some good, but not enough to threaten the fish. Once we can do that, we can edge the bubble rate up very slowly, over several days time, to get to the more optimum level of CO2. With yellow as the trigger color, you can see the color progress from blue to green to yellow, and there is no ambiguity about whether you are looking at blue-green or just green, or imaginary green.

People who are very experienced with CO2 have no reason to use drop checkers, and they probably are just a nuisance for them. Beginners with CO2 can use up a whole bottle of CO2, see no results, and just be confused, unless they have something to show them that they truly are putting an appropriate amount of CO2 into the water. A drop checker helps with that.

Hoppy
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