Hey everyone. I want to DIY a co2 regulator... Originally I was looking into getting an aquatek co2 regulator, but then I reminded myself that I am doing things right on this tank... not just going for what's cheap.
Here's my dilemma..... I have no idea what to look for for the main regulator body. I've tried looking online, and have found a fair bit of information, but I just can't seem to figure it all out.
What's the benefit of dual stage over single?
Should I be looking out for specific brand names?
What is a reasonable price for the regulator body if purchased used on ebay?
I see a lot of regs that are for oxygen, or acetylene, or other welding purposes... Are those usable for this? or does it have to be specifically a co2 regulator?
I just have not had a ton of luck finding this stuff in my searches, so I'm really hopeful that maybe this thread will serve as a benefit to me, and anyone else that wants to DIY a regulator for a compressed co2 system instead of buying a pre-built.
This is harder to answer; the demand for regulators has been increasing, while the supply has been decreasing. This results in the price going higher and higher.
I suppose it depends on how lucky you are. I saw some single stage Concoas that went for $15 just a few months ago.
I see a lot of regs that are for oxygen, or acetylene, or other welding purposes... Are those usable for this? or does it have to be specifically a co2 regulator?
Thanks for the reply. Hopefully I got a good deal, cause I ordered a regulator last night! It's a Victor VTS250c reg, dual stage. I think, if I've been looking at the right threads, I'll need to replace the adapter with one for co2 tanks, and then add the extra equipment to make it usable in the tank, but it seems this is one that people have used before for this. It was $45, and looks to be in pretty pristine condition. Do you think $45 is a good deal?
I think I'll need to replace the working pressure indicator, as this one is up to 200, and I've seen most people want one that goes up to 100, so they can better dial in their working pressure.
What do you guys think? Should this work well for me?
Thanks for the reply. Hopefully I got a good deal, cause I ordered a regulator last night! It's a Victor VTS250c reg, dual stage. I think, if I've been looking at the right threads, I'll need to replace the adapter with one for co2 tanks, and then add the extra equipment to make it usable in the tank, but it seems this is one that people have used before for this. It was $45, and looks to be in pretty pristine condition. Do you think $45 is a good deal?
I think I'll need to replace the working pressure indicator, as this one is up to 200, and I've seen most people want one that goes up to 100, so they can better dial in their working pressure.
If the gauge goes from 0-200, then there will be a minimum working pressure as well (check the product specification sheet). Some of them can only go down to (say) 10 PSI, which might not be suitable for smaller aquariums.
This will be a 40 gallon breeder. I want to do an atomic diffuser, which I've heard needs a minimum for 30 working PSI to use... so in that case I'd probably be ok yeah? I figure I'd set it right at about 40 or so working PSI.
I don't really see a need to change out the low pressure gauge then. My personal regulator goes from 0-200 PSI for the low pressure gauge as well, and it works fine.
OK cool thanks. Now my next purchase is going to be the needle/metering valve. I always get sooooo confused by model numbers with this CO2 stuff, probably why pre-build systems are so expensive lol.
I have been reading and reading about which valves, and I'm seeing good things about swagelok, and ideal, but I cannot seem to figure out if certain models will work for me or not? I just don't understand it. I'm seeing some valves for pretty cheap on e-bay, but just don't wanna buy it unless I know it'll work. Well any needle valve model within those top brands work for this? Or is there something specific I can look for?
I think I figured out which needle valve! Parker 2F-H3L-V-SS-TC. Found it for a pretty good price. I've done some research and it seems this is a good valve. It's nice looking, and seems to be well liked.
Anyone wanna chime in on if this is good? Should I jump on it? I'd like to buy ASAP if someone can say yea or nay?
I think I figured out which needle valve! Parker 2F-H3L-V-SS-TC. Found it for a pretty good price. I've done some research and it seems this is a good valve. It's nice looking, and seems to be well liked.
Anyone wanna chime in on if this is good? Should I jump on it? I'd like to buy ASAP if someone can say yea or nay?
Lol, you called it! I bought the one on evilbay for $25. seems a ridiculously good deal for something that normally retails many times that price, but hey.... How can I complain about a good deal?
It does look badass in the pics, I am stoked to see it, and hopefully I can figure out how to put everything together once I get it.
Darkblade- I didn't mention this to you, but I wanted to say thanks for your primer to co2... it's pretty much what I've been following as a base line for research on this project. I use other sources as well, but your thread is a fantastic write-up... So thank you for taking the time to make it
Ok, think I've figured out the solenoid, will be ordering after payday... But here's my next question... Seems like there are always more questions! lol. Sorry if any of them come across pretty stupid...
The reg that I got looks like this in the pic:
And in case that doesn't work, It's ebay item number: 300664732392
So it looks like it doesn't come with the stem or the nut to connect to the tank, which is just as well really, as I will need to buy that anyway, but since the stem isn't on it, can I just buy any CGA 320 nut/nipple and just screw the nipple into the reg where it's normal stem would go? Or is there a different thread pattern I need to worry about?
Just thread the cga-320 into the input threads of the regulator. Make sure to keep the teflon tape out of the co2 flow stream or it can come off and clog the regulator. Only adapter you may need would be pipe thread style to mate the nipple to the regulator if they don't match.
So from what you said Discgo, and from reading in that thread you linked Scapegoat, it would seem I can just go ahead and order the nut/nipple, and that the threads in most cases are pretty universal. Guess there's not much left to do but place the order :thumbsup:
Ok so there is a lot of 8 burkert 6011s for sale on ebay for $70.... If I scoop that up I wonder how hard it would be to re-sell the rest of them. Don't know if enough people do their own co2 to set up a group buy. would anyone be in if I did?
Actually. let me take that back... is this ebay item # 370679965480 the same as the normal solenoids we use? It looks different..... Am I missing something?
What's a burkert 6011? I got fifteen on it if its something I need. Right now I have a paintball tank going to a 80psi fixed pressure co2 regulator followed by a Husky mini adjustable air regulator with gauge I picked at home depot for $22 followed by a cheap needle valve from menards. I look forward to replacing the needle valve soon but wanted to possibly make it operational now. All I need is a full paintball tank and to make sure the hose is the right stuff and it will be ready to fire up.
Regulator and needle valve came in today, waiting on solenoid. Once it all comes in, I think all I need are the pieces to connect them all together. Can I just use regular brass parts from home depot in their plumbing dept?
The Condition of the regulator is decent. On initial "inspection" (which involved me looking at it, and you know... looking at it for a bit longer) it seems everything should work fine. Turns out the low pressure gauge actually goes up to 100 PSI which is awesome... better control. The exterior is a bit rugged, some dings, and scratches, but I used to work in a machine shop, and one of the groomsmen in my upcoming wedding still works at that shop, so he said if I plug all the ports, he will gladly buff it up for me.
Anyway... Overall condition I'd call fair. The needle valve on the other hand... that thing is a piece of art! Absolutely beautiful, brand new in a heat shrink wrapped box and all, couldn't ask for more!
That's awesome Scott...if the working pressure on the low gauge is higher than 100psi it makes tuning a bit difficult correct? If that's the case than one can simply change the gauge to one with a lower working pressure?
You can change the gauge to one that has a finer resolution of lower pressures. Keep in mind though, that regulators also have a range of delivery pressures in which they can work; if the minimum is (say) 40 PSI, then getting a gauge that can resolve finely in a range of 0 - 40 PSI would be pointless anyway.
Thanks for the clarification. Now, lets check for understanding...the PDF for the Victor VTS 250 series indicates the following:
Is the working pressure of the manifold you mentioned, the range I see in this picture? For example, the 250C has a range of 4-80psig and the 250D series has 5-125 psig.
If my understanding is correct, a lower gauge that goes up to 100psi may work for both of these series since, for our purposes, we will never go past the 100psi?
In other words, can a 100psi lower gauge be installed on a 250D series or is a 200psi a best choice?
Is the working pressure of the manifold you mentioned, the range I see in this picture? For example, the 250C has a range of 4-80psig and the 250D series has 5-125 psig.
If my understanding is correct, a lower gauge that goes up to 100psi may work for both of these series since, for our purposes, we will never go past the 100psi?
Yes, it can. You can leave the 200 PSI gauge on as well; I use a Victor that has a 200 PSI low pressure gauge and it increases in (minor) increments of 5 PSI and major increments of 20.
That's hard to say; I've seen decent ones go from $10-20, but stainless steel ones can cost significantly more.
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