DIY LED with MakersLED Heat Sink - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-28-2012, 05:17 PM
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Very nice build
I built mine in the Living Room also, that's where working nights comes in handy with the better half

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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! Yeah, it's a good thing the end product met with her approval, haha...

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Totally forgot to add this here is the hanging hardware I used. All from the same aisle in Home Despot.
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
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There is a lot of green fuzzy stuff on my rocks! Reducing light duration from 10 to 8 hours, increasing ferts and CO2.

It's kind of pretty as it waves in the current, but it is smothering my plants. Grr... Trimmed everything down. Rotala is unstoppable. Looking at this, I think it would look better if the hydro were on the upper level and the grass on the lower front and up the center. I may do this if I get time. Sadly, my schedule goes bonkers this week, so I'll be an infrequent visitor for a while. I'll try to post progress when I have time!

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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012, 10:06 PM
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I got my kit in, it's very very nice. I wish I didn't use thermal adhesive and just stuck to using thermal paste, because I need to add a few more LEDs and now they're stuck to the heatsink so I can't add more screws.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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Oh no! Well, there must be some way of removing it...
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 05:36 AM
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If you used an aluminum oxide based adhesive I found I could easily pop the stars off with a knife blade at the joint - just a bit of prying and they came loose.

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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in MD View Post
Very nice build
I built mine in the Living Room also, that's where working nights comes in handy with the better half

Mike
+1, really nice. Love it. Got a few questions ~ what is the size of the tank? What's the rated power consumption or Watts?

Thanks.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-14-2012, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
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+1, really nice. Love it. Got a few questions ~ what is the size of the tank? What's the rated power consumption or Watts?

Thanks.
Thanks! I don't recall what current I'm running right now, but at full power, it'd be burning 84 watts or so (I'd have to double check my specs). Under half that of my T5HO's. I don't run it at full power, however. Turns out it's a lot more light than I anticipated! I need to get my hands on a par meter to know exactly what it's putting out.

The tank is an ADA 120-P, which is 65 gallons (48x18x18). At the current height and with 60 degree optics, it has pretty much perfect coverage, with the most concentrated beam covering the full footprint at substrate level (plus a few inches).
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-14-2012, 05:33 AM Thread Starter
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If you used an aluminum oxide based adhesive I found I could easily pop the stars off with a knife blade at the joint - just a bit of prying and they came loose.
That's good to know, Hoppy thanks for the tip! I think I'll drop that in the FAQ...
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 09:58 PM
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What is your ratio of cool white to neutral white LED's?
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-16-2013, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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I have changed this recently. I was running 50/50 (14cw 14nw), but this was lacking in the red part of the spectrum. I have added 8 warm whites to make up the difference, and it has balanced it out pretty well.
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-16-2013, 06:36 PM
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I just put together a similar fixture. The combination of cool and warm white on seperate channels gives me excelent control. I did not include any blue LEDs, but if you have fish that have iradecent highlights it is worth adding in a few blues.

Since this thread was started, Ledgroupbuy has started selling a hanging kit. It is very nice and easy to adjust.

What are you using for a power supply? I bought one on their site, but I am not a fan of the exposed line voltage terminals.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 02:16 AM
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very nice build theblondskeleton i love it , i am on my way to make my lights for the same tank as you , well i have some questions you are running 28 CREE XTE leds but at what current ? and is by that you are getting enough light for a high tech system ? and about your NW leds how much its kelvin ?

and after your experiment what do you recommend for the ratio between CW and NW
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudger View Post
I just put together a similar fixture. The combination of cool and warm white on seperate channels gives me excelent control. I did not include any blue LEDs, but if you have fish that have iradecent highlights it is worth adding in a few blues.

Since this thread was started, Ledgroupbuy has started selling a hanging kit. It is very nice and easy to adjust.

What are you using for a power supply? I bought one on their site, but I am not a fan of the exposed line voltage terminals.
I'll have to check out the hanging kit - I have a decent setup for it right now, but I do enjoy tinkering.

I have the Meanwell power supply as well. I'd be more comfortable with it in a box, but it does all right.

I had blues for a bit, but I was getting crazy BBA with them, so I removed them. I have enough blue spectrum with the cool whites to keep the plants happy, so it didn't bother me too much.
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamezawy View Post
very nice build theblondskeleton i love it , i am on my way to make my lights for the same tank as you , well i have some questions you are running 28 CREE XTE leds but at what current ? and is by that you are getting enough light for a high tech system ? and about your NW leds how much its kelvin ?

and after your experiment what do you recommend for the ratio between CW and NW
Thanks! I can't say how much I love the heat sink. It's a pretty well engineered package.

I'm running 36 emitters now (after adding the 8 warm whites). My driver is the SmartyCat designed by O2Surplus (see his thread about that). As I recall, it runs at about 1100 mA, but I have each channel manually dialed down quite a bit. I couldn't say exactly what the current is for each channel, except to say it provides plenty of PAR without algae issues.

As for the ratio of cw/nw, I'd say add the warm whites to the equation. Without them I was getting leggy growth that looked like I just didn't have enough light (which I didn't in the red part of the spectrum). My current ratio is (cw:nw:ww) 1:1:0.5, but my cw are running at about 75%, my nw are dialed down at least 50%, and the ww are running at nearly 100% (of the 1100mA max). They also have 80 degree optics instead of 60 degree optics like the cw/nw.

In other words, a lot of variables going on there.

I'd almost say you don't need nw, except to render your greens. That would be a personal choice.

Those are just my observations based on my conditions, so things may be different for you. Hope that helps!
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