Calling all DIY LED "Junkies" - Your opinions wanted! - Page 4 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #46 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Groovy man What are you using for a power supply, by the way? Anything special or just a wall wart?
Most people, Myself included, use MeanWell power supplies. I've got three 24V/6.5 amp supplies powering my original LED build. They've been going strong for nearly 3 years now so I can't complain lol. I helped a local fish store owner set up an LED lighting system for his stock tanks last year. He "cheaped out" and didn't buy the MeanWell's and went with some Chinese knock offs instead. Everything worked fine for the first couple of weeks until, as reported by a store employee, "one of the power supplies let out a bang followed by a 4 foot tall flame!" Lesson learned - "You get what you pay for". The store owner replaced all his supplies with MeanWell units and has not had any more failures to date.

225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ dual Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Makers 72" heat sink w/ 12 NanoBox V3 led arrays, custom built CC drivers. All controlled by a BlueFish "mini" Led Controller. iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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post #47 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 06:59 PM
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Very nice a screen with menu and buttons would be great - easier to program for some!
I use a combo of a 16x4 LCD and a Logitech harmony remote to control my Arduino controller. The circuit for the remote is quite simple, just a cap,resistor and a IR receiver so as long as this device has a free pin and free memory for the IR code, that would be an easy add on as well
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post #48 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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I use a combo of a 16x4 LCD and a Logitech harmony remote to control my Arduino controller. The circuit for the remote is quite simple, just a cap,resistor and a IR receiver so as long as this device has a free pin and free memory for the IR code, that would be an easy add on as well
Hey that's a great idea! who wouldn't want the ability to adjust their lighting from across the room? Do you think you could provide me a schematic and the coding to add that function? I'd love to be able to do that.

225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ dual Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Makers 72" heat sink w/ 12 NanoBox V3 led arrays, custom built CC drivers. All controlled by a BlueFish "mini" Led Controller. iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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post #49 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 11:52 PM
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Hey that's a great idea! who wouldn't want the ability to adjust their lighting from across the room? Do you think you could provide me a schematic and the coding to add that function? I'd love to be able to do that.
Yeah it's handy for lazy people like me

I used a TSOP 1138 chip and pretty much exactly the example circuit described in the PDF.
http://www.vishay.com/docs/82006/tsop11xx.pdf

Here are the details on the library and the download. Terahz @ RC has some nice IR programming/menuing code that is also useful from the hydra project over there.
I had a bunch of old remotes lying around that I tested but about 20% of them didn't work with this library for whatever reason. I just picked one that did and cloned it on my harmony remote.

http://www.arcfn.com/2009/08/multi-p...e-library.html
http://arcfn.com/files/IRremote.zip
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post #50 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 05:39 PM
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Hmm. This controller seems great Aaron. With the typhoon controllers I just use the lcd to make changes since I know nothing about typhoon.

With this controller we can just modify the code and upload it via usb? I may have to add a usb hub to my "ballast".

Ideally though, I'd like to add an lcd and buttons. Is there any tutorials on this that you could link me to?
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post #51 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 05:47 PM
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I was thinking about the general setup for the lighting that we have been using... fade duration, max and on time/off time.

If we can figure out the coding, I think a more ideal setup would be like ATIs programs, where you set everything incrementally. For example.

Time: 1000-1100, 40%
Time : 1100-1400, 40%
Time: 1400-1500, 100%
Time: 1500-1600, 40%
Time: 1600-1900, 40%
Time: 1900-2000, 0%

This program would do a 1 hour ramp to 40%, stay at 40% for three hours, ramp up to 100% and back down to 40% over the next two hours (mid day burst), back to 40% for three more hours and fade off over the last hour.

The only thing I don't like now, is if I want a mid day burst it has to be super long if I want that string on all day, or I have to leave the "burst" string off until mid day.

Just an idea.
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post #52 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Justin-

I know there's already someone that already created a 6 channel code for the "Typhon Controller". I haven't been able to locate it yet, as I haven't had enough free time to do so. I know that it's buried somewhere in the Typhon thread over on RC. That software would work nicely for you with this design, as it would behave just like the "typhon controllers" that you already have. Once I get this new driver/controller tested and sorted out, I'll try to get a collection of different sketches put together and post them in this thread. That way people who want to use this design will have enough software options to choose from.
I'm going to concentrate for now on the hardware side of this project. There could be problems with it that I didn't catch before having the boards made. I have to make sure that the Arduino, DS1307, and all six CAT's will "play nice" with each other reliably, before I pass these out to other user's. Once I'm sure of the hardware design, we'll get to the software side of the project. My "day job" and my two small kids are keeping me quite busy right now, so this could take a while.

225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ dual Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Makers 72" heat sink w/ 12 NanoBox V3 led arrays, custom built CC drivers. All controlled by a BlueFish "mini" Led Controller. iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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post #53 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 07:23 PM
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Hey Aaron liking the Idea of using one of these on a future build! Will be watching this for updates, also I have your plants bagged if you want to meet at ob or somewhere with nice angels? I don't think I have as many stems for you this time around by the quality is higher. I also got the power supply and I figured out how long the line from the controller to the driver needs to be, I'm gonna have it at 8'6" hoping the curren will still get to it, if you feel I need a thicker wire I don't mind I'd rather have the led run correctly. Let me know if and when today I work at 3
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post #54 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 07:36 PM
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By the way your 225 is super impressive, saw a few for the first time last night on someone's thread about LEDs. Looking forward to seeing the new scape
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post #55 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-29-2012, 12:05 AM
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Hope you can build more of these, as demand surely will be there.
Would love 1-2 of these ;D
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post #56 of 156 (permalink) Old 07-29-2012, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Hope you can build more of these, as demand surely will be there.
Would love 1-2 of these ;D
I've never shipped anything to Norway..... yet! Give me some time to sort this new driver out and I'll see about getting you a copy.

225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ dual Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Makers 72" heat sink w/ 12 NanoBox V3 led arrays, custom built CC drivers. All controlled by a BlueFish "mini" Led Controller. iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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post #57 of 156 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 04:08 PM
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this is just what i was thinking about a ph sensor and temp etc. this is a good idea
doc
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post #58 of 156 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 04:10 PM
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Can You guys think of anything else I should add? I'm thinking that I'll add a transistor to switch the 12v output off/on. That way cooling fans can be controlled directly and can be programmed to follow the Off/on times of the LEDS. I"m also thinking that I should "breakout" more pins on the micro-controller chip so that all the analog inputs can be addressed and used. I can see a situation where someone may want to add a temp sensor to their LED rig, measure Ph, or add an LCD display. I guess the possibilities are only limited by ones imagination. I just want this gadget to be as feature packed as possible before I pull the trigger and order the PCB's
this is just what i was thinking about a ph sensor and temp etc. this is a good idea
doc
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post #59 of 156 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 05:37 PM
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I have some memory problems and didn't realize you were the one posting on my cheapo Chinese led thread the other day or I would have blown you up with compatibility questions.

I would have to reread the thread to make sure but I think you stated earlier that your wonder driver could be applied to running the higher wattage arrays I'm using. If you don't mind saving me the time of rereading, could a single PCB power all 3 of the 50w arrays I have on each of my panels? 2 CATs per array should work right?

I have another question about dimming arrays but I'll have to work on reminding myself what question I had and get back to you.

Thanks!
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post #60 of 156 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 05:44 PM
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Hey O2 any update on the board?
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