DIY ADA Stand - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 02:36 AM
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Yeah, I added wood glue on the list when you mentioned it haha. I forgot to put it there. And no, the picture was there since I first put this thread up.
Don't know how I missed it. It says Titebond right there on the stupid bottle.

Not my style of stand but it looks like a good build. I hate anything formica. Only thing I would suggest is to add a cleat on the underside of the bottom shelf. Just glue it and screw it. It will give added strength that's not there now.

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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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That's a good idea. I was a bit worried of the tank falling over due to the toe kick because the stand won't be nailed to the back of the wall. I tried leaning on the front and stuff to see if it would move/tip and it didn't so far.
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 04:58 AM
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I have some question, I'm planning to make diy stand for my mr. aqua 12 gallon long.

I have everything drawn, so I will be having 2 doors because of its length.
I would like the stand to be 36L x 9W x maybe 30 H? something like that, still thinking how tall the stand should be... I'm only 5'8"

So question on "higher" quality plywood? may I know the difference?
Sorry, very noobie here on carpentering... never took wood shop on middle/ high scool D:
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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30 inches is standard for everything, including bathroom counters and stuff. My stand is 30 inches including the toe kick I created. Even if your tank was a 55 gallon, the stand would ideally be 30 inches tall imo. But anyway, as for plywood quality, the lower quality plywood is usually warped and the higher quality is more straight. When getting plywood, try going for furniture grade plywood because it's more dense.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 01:05 PM
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I have some question, I'm planning to make diy stand for my mr. aqua 12 gallon long.

I have everything drawn, so I will be having 2 doors because of its length.
I would like the stand to be 36L x 9W x maybe 30 H? something like that, still thinking how tall the stand should be... I'm only 5'8"

So question on "higher" quality plywood? may I know the difference?
Sorry, very noobie here on carpentering... never took wood shop on middle/ high school D:
Higher quality plywood is smooth both sides. The outside veneers are usually a hardwood. My library is oak both sides. The interior plys have no voids so when you cut it you're not going to see anything but plywood. It also has more plys to it making it more dimensionally stable. Even in quality plywood there is different grades which mostly pertain to how the top veneer was cut. You can get rotary which is the cheapest. It's like unrolling the log like a roll of paper towels. You can get rift sawn and also quartersawn.

Regular plywood is usually pine. You can count on voids in the plys and patches in the top veneer. Also there will usually be 3-5 plys. One side will be sanded. Usually.

The big box stores won't (at least none of the ones near me do) carry a plywood labeled "Furniture Grade" Just get the hardwood (oak, or birch) It works fine. Here it's about $45 per sheet.

If you want a really smooth wood for putting formica on try MDF.

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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 01:13 PM
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If you want a really smooth wood for putting formica on try MDF.
I know a lot of people have used it, but I'd worry about moisture around MDF. I would think a marine grade plywood would be ideal, but perhaps overkill.

Nice build on the stand.

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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 01:16 PM
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I know a lot of people have used it, but I'd worry about moisture around MDF. I would think a marine grade plywood would be ideal, but perhaps overkill.

Nice build on the stand.
Marine grade plywood isn't necessary at all.


MDF stands up to the elements. Most of the signs you see around are painted on it. And they're outdoors. Norm even built a mailbox post out of it on NYW. Don't confuse it with particle board.

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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 02:16 PM
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If you are concerned about moisture, there is a product called CPES. I use it alot in boatbuilding applications. It will waterproof any kind of wood. Its an epoxy/solvent mix that soaks into the wood and waterproofs it.

Also marine grade ply is a rip, anyone who has done marine work knows that exterior grade ply with CPES will outlast marine by 20 years. Its just marketing anything marine is more expensive, marine ply is no more waterproof than regular ply it just has fewer knots and voids in it where water can sit.
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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 03:40 PM
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Marine grade plywood isn't necessary at all.


MDF stands up to the elements. Most of the signs you see around are painted on it. And they're outdoors. Norm even built a mailbox post out of it on NYW. Don't confuse it with particle board.
0

I think you might be mistaken. Norm (New Yankee Workshop) uses MDO, NOT MDF.
MDO is Medium Density Overlay. MDO is a plywood with resin impregnated paper surface. It's mostly waterproof and very smooth. Works well outside.
MDF is a wood flour and resin mix. Not waterproof. If water sits on it, it will swell up and fall apart.

MDO is usually only available at a specialty wood supplier. MDF you can get at any big box hardware store.

MDO cost 3 to 5 times MDF!

Only one letter different (O vs. F) but really different stuff.
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 04:24 PM
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I think you might be mistaken. Norm (New Yankee Workshop) uses MDO, NOT MDF.
MDO is Medium Density Overlay. MDO is a plywood with resin impregnated paper surface. It's mostly waterproof and very smooth. Works well outside.
MDF is a wood flour and resin mix. Not waterproof. If water sits on it, it will swell up and fall apart.

MDO is usually only available at a specialty wood supplier. MDF you can get at any big box hardware store.

MDO cost 3 to 5 times MDF!

Only one letter different (O vs. F) but really different stuff.
I both stand and sit corrected! Listen, I can't be right 100% of the time.

Note to self: No more errors until 2013.

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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 04:39 PM
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I both stand and sit corrected! Listen, I can't be right 100% of the time.

Note to self: No more errors until 2013.
You were right in the first place. MDF isn't waterproof any more than wood is. But,it doesn't swell up when wet. I have used it indoors and out with no problems. Wood trim for exteriors is MDF. Most wood strip siding is MDF. I have use MDF for tomato stakes and it didn't swell even though it was damp or wet all summer.

The problems with MDF are that it will take a permanent set if it is stored so it is bent in any way, I doesn't hold ordinary screws very well at all, and most of the tensile strength is in the hard surface layer, so some joints won't work well. You can't use a piece of 3/4 inch thick MDF as a shelf unless it is supported every foot or so, or it will permanently sag. But, if the load on a MDF part is all vertical it is as strong as most wood. If you cut a groove across a MDF panel (for a tongue and groove joint, for example) the panel is very weak in bending at the groove location.

About high quality plywood: oak veneered plywood can be as poor quality as non furniture grade plywood, and the veneer is only about .010 inch thick, so it adds no strength at all. Birch veneered plywood is far superior if you plan to paint it, since the wood doesn't have large pores like oak does. Birch plywood made of all birch plies is the best there is - often referred to as Finish Birch Plywood (from Finland) or Baltic Birch Plywood (from the Baltic States) or Russian Birch Plywood, the cheapest I have found.

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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 07:05 PM
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About high quality plywood: oak veneered plywood can be as poor quality as non furniture grade plywood, and the veneer is only about .010 inch thick, so it adds no strength at all. Birch veneered plywood is far superior if you plan to paint it, since the wood doesn't have large pores like oak does. Birch plywood made of all birch plies is the best there is - often referred to as Finish Birch Plywood (from Finland) or Baltic Birch Plywood (from the Baltic States) or Russian Birch Plywood, the cheapest I have found.
I would say that poor quality oak/birch, etc plywood is the exception not the rule though. I've bought from both a specialty lumberyard and the BBS. 90% of the time the stuff from the BBS is just fine. No. You're not going to get the quartersawn stuff. But the amount of plys and the lack of voids in the plys is still good. I've yet to run into a void in any of the BBS stuff.

Oak, whether plywood or solid would need to be filled. Especially if you want an ultra high gloss, super smooth finish. But that is true of mahogany and other woods also.

Yes. You need to be careful when sanding plywood. You can sand through the top veneer.

Finnish Baltic Birch.

We now return you to your irregularly scheduled programming. Hi Jack over.

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Quote me as saying I was misquoted.
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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 07:13 PM
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very nicely done. great design!

Salmons ADA 75-P Rockscape on DSM / 13g Rimless / 12g Rimless Club / 12g rimless - not yet started / Cannon Pimp Club #009 -T3i
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 09:13 PM
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What are your secrets for handling that floppy fragile sheet of formica? I had more trouble with that than anything else when using formica. All it takes is a minor slip and the stuff breaks.

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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-20-2012, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't have any problem with the formica sheets breaking. The formica can be rolled up and all but if you bend it to a certain point, that's when it breaks.
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