DIY PAR meter, Yeah you heard me - Page 11 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #151 of 733 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 09:28 PM
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I think I may have something of interest for you.
It is a part off of a photography light meter - there are two different kinds and either may be of interest.
Sekonic L - 398 M Lumidisk
or
Sekonic L - 398 M Lumisphere

The lumisphere provides cosine corrected light readings for individual light source measurements.
I don't know what the lumidisk does, it might be good for readings with multiple light sources?
There is also a lumigrid which has lots of small holes in it, which on the light meter is useful for measuring reflected light, but probably not useful to you.



This is the lumisphere

You could probably find a way to silicone it to the rest of the housing and make it waterproof, and maybe you could find a way to make the cable come out of the side so it could lay flat.
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post #152 of 733 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chlorophile View Post
I think I may have something of interest for you.
It is a part off of a photography light meter - there are two different kinds and either may be of interest.
Sekonic L - 398 M Lumidisk
or
Sekonic L - 398 M Lumisphere

The lumisphere provides cosine corrected light readings for individual light source measurements.
I don't know what the lumidisk does, it might be good for readings with multiple light sources?
There is also a lumigrid which has lots of small holes in it, which on the light meter is useful for measuring reflected light, but probably not useful to you.



This is the lumisphere

You could probably find a way to silicone it to the rest of the housing and make it waterproof, and maybe you could find a way to make the cable come out of the side so it could lay flat.
Can people buy this component?
I'm limiting to parts people can buy cheaply.

The piece of acrylic I'm using seems to work pretty well.

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post #153 of 733 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 10:24 PM
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post #154 of 733 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 10:27 PM
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Here is a picture of mine next to a quarter.
its fairly deep and hollow too.
Would certainly look more similar to a real par meter if you care about looks ;]

P.S. Doesn't the angle of this photograph make you feel upside down? Muahahaha
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post #155 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, I finally got around to drawing out the diagram for this.



Does anybody want to design the printed circuit board?

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post #156 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistergreen View Post
Ok, I finally got around to drawing out the diagram for this.



Does anybody want to design the printed circuit board?
I'll take a crack at it. Did you want an Arduino compatible "shield" or better yet, a Stand alone board with it's own AVR, LCD display, and on board Battery power? I could build you a PAR meter with similar construction to the LED controller that I built last year. Here's a photo of the "guts" and another with the LCD attached. I could probably shrink everything needed for the PAR meter to fit on a board no larger than the LCD. Let me know what you think.

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post #157 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

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Did you want an Arduino compatible "shield" or better yet, a Stand alone board with it's own AVR, LCD display, and on board Battery power?
Whichever is the cheaper/easier route. Let's mobilize this thing!

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post #158 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 05:15 PM
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having recently had some experience with O2's boards, i say we go for the all inclusive one. I'm doing some builds off of his work for my LED drivers, and it's, well, legit. if we (using the we term FAIRLY liberally here can eliminate the arduino, and slot in the LCD screen, this thing would be much more manageable to encase and use. but that's just my vote
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post #159 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 03:37 AM
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Mistergreen-

I'm going to design the PAR meter Pcb to be as small as possible and power it off a standard 9v battery. I'll probably use the ATMEL328-AU, as I have 20 of them already flashed with the Arduino "Optiboot" - Bootloader. I'll include a connection for a FTDI adapter as it will be needed for the initial programming. If you could do me a favor- please post your wiring diagram with a little more info as it will save me some time. I need to know what size jack plug you want ( 1.8mm, 2.1mm, 2.5mm ect.) Also a copy of your "sketch", so that I can confirm the exact pin/wiring configuration used. I'll get to work on this and send you PM's if further questions arise.
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post #160 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 04:11 AM Thread Starter
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info as it will save me some time. I need to know what size jack plug you want ( 1.8mm, 2.1mm, 2.5mm ect.)
The Jack is a bulky home depot 6 pin phone jack. Not sure what you mean by 1.8mm,2.1mm etc... It can be any jack, ethernet etc..

Here's the code for you to confirm pins.

What's the cost estimate on this?

Code:
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>

float average = 0;
float output = 0;
float factor = 1.52;
unsigned long time;
int counter = 0;
// initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins
LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);


void setup() {
  time = millis();
    // set up the LCD's number of rows and columns: 
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  // Print a message to the LCD.
  lcd.print("2noodles PAR");
  
}

void loop() {
  int sensorValue = analogRead(0);
  average += sensorValue;
  counter++;

  //every second or 1000 millis
  if(millis() > time+1000) {
     //corrections to fit par
   average = average/counter;
   
   if(average <= 560) {
     factor = 1.55;
   } else {
     factor = 1.36;
   }
   //corrects for high PAR
   output = average * factor;
   
    // set the cursor to column 0, line 1
    // (note: line 1 is the second row, since counting begins with 0):
    lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
    // print the number of seconds since reset:
    lcd.print(output);
  
    //reset timer & counter to get ready for the next second.
    time = millis();
    counter = 0;
    average = 0;
  }
}

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post #161 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 02:06 PM
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What's the cost estimate on this?
I'm shooting for around $20 not including the PAR sensor, project box, and battery.

1. Custom PCB - $2-$4
2. ATMEL 328 Micro-controller $5
3 16x2 LCD - $5
4. 16Mhz crystal - $1
5. 5 volt regulator - $1
6. dc power jack, resistors,capacitors, ect..$4
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post #162 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, that's pretty good. Cheaper than the actual arduino uno.

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post #163 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 11:02 PM
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This should work. I modified the wiring diagram and the code for the LCD a bit, and included a 1ok pot for the screen contrast adjustment. The Par sensor will connect to the bottom side of the PCB, through a 2.1mm DC barrel jack. Power will be provided through a remote mounted switch, by a 9V battery. The PCB measures 83mm x 40mm and will mount directly to the underside of a 16 X 2 LCD.
I'm going to re-flash one of my led controllers as a test, just to make sure the circuit will work before ordering some boards. Please let me know if you Guys see anything that I may have missed, as I cranked this one out in a hurry.
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post #164 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Looks pretty darn cool.

You know better than I but pin 5 on the LCD-header isn't used?

Oh, I found a barrel jack male on sparkfun.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10287

I think it's cleaner than a phone jack.

I should grab a USB to FDTI cable while I'm at it.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718

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post #165 of 733 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
This should work. I modified the wiring diagram and the code for the LCD a bit, and included a 1ok pot for the screen contrast adjustment. The Par sensor will connect to the bottom side of the PCB, through a 2.1mm DC barrel jack. Power will be provided through a remote mounted switch, by a 9V battery. The PCB measures 83mm x 40mm and will mount directly to the underside of a 16 X 2 LCD.
I'm going to re-flash one of my led controllers as a test, just to make sure the circuit will work before ordering some boards. Please let me know if you Guys see anything that I may have missed, as I cranked this one out in a hurry.
Hmmm.. Looks like it's missing a TI-83 input, and your Exhaust-Gas Solenoid port doesn't link up to the blugger valve...
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