Building a 72L Aquarium stand - Completed - New pics (9/22) - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-26-2010, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattycakesclark View Post
Make a jig. I have always thought of dowels / biscuits / etc as a way to secure wood until the glue drys. I am sure it provides some support, but not nearly as much as wood glue.

Make a jig out of a piece of bent metal. Drill where you want your pilots for your dowels, and use that to guide your drilling. Or buy a biscuit cutter (not the kind you bake with :P). I use it a lot, and it helps you jig it up nice and straight.
I know what biscuits you are talking about The bent metal jig is a good idea!
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post #32 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-27-2010, 02:01 AM
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If you use 4 x 4 parts the corner braces will be for appearance only, since the legs won't extend far enough to actually tie the parts together. Something like 8 inch long legs would be needed, maybe 6 inches.

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post #33 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-27-2010, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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You are right Hoppy and that clicked in my head while I was shopping for the braces today. So I got 6" braces instead.
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post #34 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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How sound would it be to connect the frame using pocket hole screws with something like this?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_168410-39450...ntifier=$Va=22

Is this kind of joint sound enough for the kind of weight the frame needs to carry (approx 1500 lbs)?

Should I use the pocket hole self tapping screws like these (below) or consider using construction grade deck wood screws instead...say 2" longs?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_205308-39450...ntifier=$Va=22
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post #35 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-29-2010, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, some change in plans. My wife is not too excited about the exposed metal industrial look. Knowing the risks of keeping a big tank in living room she has generously agreed and encouraged my idea so I have to agree to her choices as well.

So, as of now, the exposed braces idea is out as is the pocket hole idea since the screws (2.5" max) that come with pocket holes are not for heavy load.

After consulting my new found friend at the local Menards who happen to have a 300G tank on a DIY stand, I got a chance to visit his house and get a sneak peak at his setup. It is recent (about 6 months old) but looks sturdy and nicely built.

He's in the lumber department and seemed to have a wealth of information so I as a novice am heavily influenced by his suggestions. Taking his recommendation I am going with 6" lag screws used for decks to hold the frame.

4 screws will hold the 6' horizontal beams to the 22" vertical support beam. They will go on 4 corners of the face of 4X4. Another 2 will (middle of the edges will hold the 6' to the 10" cross beams.

Shortly, I'll post the picture of the material I have got so far. Stay tuned.
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post #36 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-01-2010, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures of my construction material.

1. All the lumber (cut to size and sanded) and some hardware and tools in my work area.


2. Close up of the wood. I love the grains!


3. I tried 2 stains. The one on the right is cordovan brown stain + waterproof sealer. The center one is bombay mahogony stain over clear sealant. The left one is bombay mahogony over bare wood. All were applied 24 hrs back on unsanded wood. I am inclined towards the center piece, but chirp in what you think of the 3.



4. Finally, my 6" lag screws
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post #37 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-01-2010, 08:13 PM
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The middle stain is definitely the best. Quality 4x4s you got there. Time to put this thing together!

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post #38 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-01-2010, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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I started with putting the frame together and initially it looked like I would have it done in 1/2 a day. The first 2 counter sinks and screws were done in no time. Like butter .

But then my wish to go cheaper with a 14V black and decker paid its price. Driving the screws is just not happening even with the max torque this tool can deliver. I am replacing this with a Bosch 18V this evening before I start again.

What I am not sure of is how the stain will work on the wood filler. I used winmax stain which has some fillers matching specific stains they make. I have to check if they have something for the mahogony or closer.
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post #39 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-02-2010, 06:58 PM
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If you use yellow wood glue in addition to the screws the stand will be much stronger and infinitely more likely to never have the joints loosen. About driving those screws - I have always found that I have to drill pilot holes for screws that long, even with higher voltage drills. It is very possible to shear off the screws when you try driving one that long without a pilot hole, in fact it is almost the normal outcome.

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post #40 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-02-2010, 08:11 PM
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You can also rub the screws on bar soap which helps significantly.

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post #41 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-02-2010, 08:18 PM
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You can also rub the screws on bar soap which helps significantly.
A little trick passed down from my grand father.
I agree about the middle stain. It looks really good. with the grain in the wood.
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post #42 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-02-2010, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
If you use yellow wood glue in addition to the screws the stand will be much stronger and infinitely more likely to never have the joints loosen. About driving those screws - I have always found that I have to drill pilot holes for screws that long, even with higher voltage drills. It is very possible to shear off the screws when you try driving one that long without a pilot hole, in fact it is almost the normal outcome.
+1. I always pre-drill. Since you are planning on getting a new drill, look into the makita 18v hammer drill. For the price, that thing is a beast. With that drill, or pretty much any hammer drill, you don't really need to pre-drill. But, pre-drilling will make the screw go in a lot easier, especially one that long. Oh yeah, my vote goes for the middle stain.
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post #43 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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I am drilling pilot holes, but even with that the previous drill was having power issues in driving the screws just after doing 1 or 2. I can surely see the difference with the new one. I got one with Lithium ion cell so hopefully the charging frequency will be less.

Hoppy - Yes I am using wood glue as well to hold the pieces together in place before I drill.

The bar soap idea is a good information. Thanks CL. But can it cause in kind of reaction with the wood that can decay the wood over time?

spunjin - Thanks for the vote for the stain. That's the way to go.

I'll have some photo updates on the frame build later tonight.
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post #44 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 06:28 PM
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I don't think that the soap will decay the wood. I think I learnead the tip on this old house.

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post #45 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Alright. Good to know. So far it is working out quite well with the new drill though. Got half of the frame assembled so far. The bosch is working like a charm
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