The Ultimate DIY Aquarium LED Build - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by flyfshrmn98 View Post
That would be a bluefish or similar controller. Very nice
With all due respect, I think you might be missing the point.

I could wire up an arduino, bluefish, or other controller, if I wanted to spend the time, match up the right lights, etc, etc. And maybe that is the best that is available today.

I'm talking about a no fuss, no muss, no DIY, one stop shopping solution. Out of the box, great quality light, all programming options, and I would be in. Tell me if I am wrong, but I don't think it exists today.

Last edited by Greggz; 12-22-2016 at 03:24 AM. Reason: typo
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post #17 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Greggz View Post

I'm talking about a no fuss, no muss, no DIY, one stop shopping solution. Out of the box, great quality light, all programming options, and I would be in. Tell me if I am wrong, but I don't think it exists today.
If you're in the market for a turn key solution, look no further than NanoBox Reef Nano Box Home These lights are built by hand, right here in the good old USA. They mostly sell to the Reefing crowd, but they also have a beautiful to behold freshwater planted led array called the "Flare". This array has four independent channels, featuring cool white, warm white/lime, true violet, and a royal blue/ cyan channel. All four channels are controlled with a fully integrated BlueFish Mini WiFi led controller, that's compatible with Android and iOS devices.

I can attest to the beauty of these led arrays, as I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225.

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland Guppy View Post
The driver has a fixed minimum of 152VDC, too much for LDD1000 drivers. 56 volts max I think.
Don't think could work to supply a network of drivers.


152VDC minimum and an aquarium........ I hope the two never meet by accident. 48VDC max sounds down right tame by comparison.
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225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ dual Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Makers 72" heat sink w/ 12 NanoBox V3 led arrays, custom built CC drivers. All controlled by a BlueFish "mini" Led Controller. iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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post #18 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
If you're in the market for a turn key solution, look no further than NanoBox Reef Nano Box Home These lights are built by hand, right here in the good old USA. They mostly sell to the Reefing crowd, but they also have a beautiful to behold freshwater planted led array called the "Flare". This array has four independent channels, featuring cool white, warm white/lime, true violet, and a royal blue/ cyan channel. All four channels are controlled with a fully integrated BlueFish Mini WiFi led controller, that's compatible with Android and iOS devices.

I can attest to the beauty of these led arrays, as I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225.
This the tank that used to have all the Vero's???
You know "just" WW/cw..
Seems to have taken you a little while to embrace the "rainbow"..

Oddly enough I've kind of gone a bit in the opposite direction..ww/cw puck COB's.. for now. Miss my colors though..

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post #19 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kampo View Post
haha o2 will set you up

i'm looking at getting his setup for my build i'm planning.
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Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Storm controller and add on 5V PWM to 10V PWM
board is $65.43 + $23
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Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
This build is only using one large driver with one control channel, and it's 0 - 10v analog to boot. This is 2009 tech, not 2016. I'd recommend that you reconsider the use of this type of driver, unless it can be used in constant voltage mode. If it can.....Pair it with enough LDD-H to get the job done & any modern 5v PWM controller to achieve something a little closer to "the ultimate led build".
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
It's interesting you say that. To me the Ultimate LED would be all about the bells an whistles.

Id' like to see a Wifi or Bluetooth connection to software that you could easily use to program every aspect of the lighting. Being able to control the intensity, color, ramp ups, ramp downs, etc. would be very useful to me.

Right now I use a convoluted mix of T5H0, LED's, variable power supplies, and a bunch of timers to provide a similar effect. It's actually kind of ridiculous. If I could replace it all with a system that provided a more elegant solution, to me that would be the "Ultimate".

That being said, still looking forward to following your build, and seeing what the heck you come up with. I also read your other LED thread, but I have to admit I was getting a bit dizzy trying to comprehend it all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshrmn98 View Post
That would be a bluefish or similar controller. Very nice
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland Guppy View Post
The driver has a fixed minimum of 152VDC, too much for LDD1000 drivers. 56 volts max I think.
Don't think could work to supply a network of drivers.

7 LDD1000 drivers would be needed to drive your LED's and an 8 up board to mount them on.

Modern controller could be Storm, StormX, HurricaneX, BlueSomething Mini, etc...
They include PWM(Pulse Width Modulation) 5v dimming.
PWM runs on duty cycle, % of on time vs. analog of just lowering the milliamps.
I would recommend only 12bit dimming(4096 steps) then lighting transitions are not noticeable or seem stepped.
10 bit seems to jump between transitions.
During PWM dimming no loss of spectrum occurs since it runs @ rated amps.

Seems we visited all of this in the beginning?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ichy View Post
What it means in simple terms is that you are doing resistive dimming. You are turning a POT to increase resistance for dimming. It is very inefficient in today's terms.

The better way to do it is to use a controller that can do Pulse Width Modulation(PWM).
With PWM the light is turned on and off very fast, the longer it stays on per cycle, the brighter the LED.


I appreciate all the input from people who have done this before and have a lot more knowledge than I do building LED lights, I am sure there are more elegant solutions that are different from the way I'm doing it.

This is the first time I have ever made a light like this, The die has been cast for this fixture, for now. In the future I can update it with more bells and whistles.

For now, feedback on whether or not the way I am planning on doing it will work would be much appreciated. It might not be the best way, or the most elegant way, or the most flashy way, or even the safest way.... But, will it work?

Once I get it done maybe I will find that more features are desirable and I can upgrade it to have the different colors on different channels so I can adjust the color temperature of the light, and have a built in timer and this and that. That's for later tho.

Will it work the way I'm doing it?

-Sean

Last edited by Sean W.; 12-22-2016 at 07:48 AM. Reason: .
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post #20 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
If you're in the market for a turn key solution, look no further than NanoBox Reef Nano Box Home These lights are built by hand, right here in the good old USA. They mostly sell to the Reefing crowd, but they also have a beautiful to behold freshwater planted led array called the "Flare". This array has four independent channels, featuring cool white, warm white/lime, true violet, and a royal blue/ cyan channel. All four channels are controlled with a fully integrated BlueFish Mini WiFi led controller, that's compatible with Android and iOS devices.

I can attest to the beauty of these led arrays, as I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225.
I may stand corrected. At first glance, those look very interesting. Thanks for passing that on.
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post #21 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W. View Post
Will it work the way I'm doing it?
Yes it will work. It will look as good as your heatsink when finished.

Many of us do not feel good about the higher voltages around your tank.
We just hoped that you would reconsider your driver choice I suppose.
Now that you have cleared up the "hope" part, carry on and make us another video!

How many watts is that solder iron/pen you lost an LED with?

Swimming is not that difficult.
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post #22 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W. View Post
This is the first time I have ever made a light like this, The die has been cast for this fixture, for now. For now, feedback on whether or not the way I am planning on doing it will work would be much appreciated. It might not be the best way, or the most elegant way, or the most flashy way, or even the safest way.... But, will it work?-Sean
First builds are always a learning experience. When there is no right or wrong way, there is always better, easier, and less expensive. I'm sure every one who has replied to your thread learned something from their first builds, and then advanced from that starting point.

IMO, your design (and materials of choice) seem to be 'solid' and very workable... a lot of power/intensity that can be controlled by dimming (even if it's not the "latest & greatest" modern technology). By having your diodes mounted with screws into the T-slots of your heatsink, you can easily change out LEDs and tweak your spectrum in the future if not satisfied.

I don't think your plants really care about all the 'bells and whistles' that you could incorporate into the light. Let us know how your project progresses (both short-term and long-term, along with the pros and cons) and ULTIMATELY whether or not your plants respond favorably to the photons they are receiving.

Maryland Guppy has a very good point about high voltage/amperage in regards to safety, especially around water.. food for thought.
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post #23 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland Guppy View Post
Yes it will work. It will look as good as your heatsink when finished.

Many of us do not feel good about the higher voltages around your tank.
We just hoped that you would reconsider your driver choice I suppose.
Now that you have cleared up the "hope" part, carry on and make us another video!

How many watts is that solder iron/pen you lost an LED with?


Quote:
Originally Posted by wastewater View Post
First builds are always a learning experience. When there is no right or wrong way, there is always better, easier, and less expensive. I'm sure every one who has replied to your thread learned something from their first builds, and then advanced from that starting point.

IMO, your design (and materials of choice) seem to be 'solid' and very workable... a lot of power/intensity that can be controlled by dimming (even if it's not the "latest & greatest" modern technology). By having your diodes mounted with screws into the T-slots of your heatsink, you can easily change out LEDs and tweak your spectrum in the future if not satisfied.

I don't think your plants really care about all the 'bells and whistles' that you could incorporate into the light. Let us know how your project progresses (both short-term and long-term, along with the pros and cons) and ULTIMATELY whether or not your plants respond favorably to the photons they are receiving.

Maryland Guppy has a very good point about high voltage/amperage in regards to safety, especially around water.. food for thought.

Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it. You guys were starting to make me question whether or not the way I was doing it would work or not. Its nice to know all this work wont be for not.

Part 3 is partially filmed, probably wont be until after Christmas before ill be able to finish filming and edit the video. I think I might do a test fire in part 3! I started wiring last night.

The soldering Iron I'm using is a 30W iron from harbor freight, I think they are $2.99?

I was using a 250W Soldering gun for the larger gauge wires when soldering the wires on the driver.

EDIT:

Oh! I did have 2 questions

#1 These LEDs are rated for 1 amp, but the driver is capable of 1050mAh, will 1050mAh Kill the diodes?
#2 Will a 1amp inline fuse before the LEDs protect them from receiving more than on amp? I guess im asking is if a 1amp fuse blows at exactly one amp?

Thanks!



Last edited by Sean W.; 12-22-2016 at 07:16 PM. Reason: adding quesitons
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post #24 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W. View Post
Oh! I did have 2 questions

#1 These LEDs are rated for 1 amp, but the driver is capable of 1050mAh, will 1050mAh Kill the diodes?
#2 Will a 1amp inline fuse before the LEDs protect them from receiving more than on amp? I guess im asking is if a 1amp fuse blows at exactly one amp?
Your driver is constant current it will maintain 1050mA at all times by adjusting its output voltage.
You will most likely blow a 1 amp fuse, you can order fractional fuses though.
I absolutely know 1.25 amp is available.

I believe all of your LED's can handle over 1000mA.
Check on their website to be sure of maximum current.

I still cringe a bit over the max voltage though.

Swimming is not that difficult.
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post #25 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 08:04 PM
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That current should be fine for a test. The diodes usually have a pulse capacity that is higher than the continuous current. You could test it at that, but I wouldn't run it there. The 1amp fast blow fuse should protect the diodes if you can run them at less current. They will blow at 1 amp. I use in line fuses when I am running LEDs in parallel in case of a mishap
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post #26 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Maryland Guppy View Post
Your driver is constant current it will maintain 1050mA at all times by adjusting its output voltage.
You will most likely blow a 1 amp fuse, you can order fractional fuses though.
I absolutely know 1.25 amp is available.

I believe all of your LED's can handle over 1000mA.
Check on their website to be sure of maximum current.

I still cringe a bit over the max voltage though.

It's my understanding that my driver is constant voltage and I can vary the amperage with the pot?
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post #27 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 10:09 PM
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Forgot about your dimming feature.
Doubt that you have a pot with a stop on it though.
Still a constant current driver though, based on pot reference.

Digikey has 1.25 amp 313 style glass fuse slow-blo for like 1and change?

Swimming is not that difficult.

Last edited by Maryland Guppy; 12-22-2016 at 10:10 PM. Reason: edit
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post #28 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 10:29 PM
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It's my understanding that my driver is constant voltage and I can vary the amperage with the pot?
Err, no. The driver (constant current type) increases or decreases the voltage till the current set point is reached..

As to dimming the 2 possibilities are
1) yes the "pot" decreases the amp set point
or
2) The driver, when dimmed "pulses" the output at a rate corresponding to the dim %..
So effectively "decreasing Amps over time w/out decreasing amps"..
Example..


Dimming w/ changing current is somewhat "frowned upon" as it changes color output some..

Since the Meanwell uses 2 wires to allow 3 types of dimming.. 0-10v, 10v PWM and "pot" or resistor..odds are internally the "output" is pulsed..
Generally those w/ amp dimming and pwm dimming use 2 circuits..
no guarantee and no way of knowing for sure w/out "scoping" the driver output.. Meters are useless as they generally "average" anyways.

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 12-22-2016 at 10:38 PM. Reason: edit
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post #29 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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The diodes max amperage is 1000mah, so will the driver's constant output of 1050mah blow them?
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post #30 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Sean W. View Post
The diodes max amperage is 1000mah, so will the driver's constant output of 1050mah blow them?
Probably not... and if "dimmed" it, at the worst, becomes a pulsed 1050mA, which is less bother some than a constant 1050mA...
Depending on the thermal transfer properties it may shorten thier lifespan..

just a matter of internal heat..


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