haha o2 will set you up
i'm looking at getting his setup for my build i'm planning.
Storm controller and add on 5V PWM to 10V PWM
board is $65.43 + $23
This build is only using one large driver with one control channel, and it's 0 - 10v analog to boot. This is 2009 tech, not 2016. I'd recommend that you reconsider the use of this type of driver, unless it can be used in constant voltage mode. If it can.....Pair it with enough LDD-H to get the job done & any modern 5v PWM controller to achieve something a little closer to "the ultimate led build".
It's interesting you say that. To me the Ultimate LED would be all about the bells an whistles.
Id' like to see a Wifi or Bluetooth connection to software that you could easily use to program every aspect of the lighting. Being able to control the intensity, color, ramp ups, ramp downs, etc. would be very useful to me.
Right now I use a convoluted mix of T5H0, LED's, variable power supplies, and a bunch of timers to provide a similar effect. It's actually kind of ridiculous. If I could replace it all with a system that provided a more elegant solution, to me that would be the "Ultimate".
That being said, still looking forward to following your build, and seeing what the heck you come up with. I also read your other LED thread, but I have to admit I was getting a bit dizzy trying to comprehend it all.
That would be a bluefish or similar controller. Very nice
Originally Posted by Maryland Guppy
The driver has a fixed minimum of 152VDC, too much for LDD1000 drivers. 56 volts max I think.
Don't think could work to supply a network of drivers.
7 LDD1000 drivers would be needed to drive your LED's and an 8 up board to mount them on.
Modern controller could be Storm, StormX, HurricaneX, BlueSomething Mini, etc...
They include PWM(Pulse Width Modulation) 5v dimming.
PWM runs on duty cycle, % of on time vs. analog of just lowering the milliamps.
I would recommend only 12bit dimming(4096 steps) then lighting transitions are not noticeable or seem stepped.
10 bit seems to jump between transitions.
During PWM dimming no loss of spectrum occurs since it runs @ rated amps.
Seems we visited all of this in the beginning?
What it means in simple terms is that you are doing resistive dimming. You are turning a POT to increase resistance for dimming. It is very inefficient in today's terms.
The better way to do it is to use a controller that can do Pulse Width Modulation(PWM).
With PWM the light is turned on and off very fast, the longer it stays on per cycle, the brighter the LED.
I appreciate all the input from people who have done this before and have a lot more knowledge than I do building LED lights, I am sure there are more elegant solutions that are different from the way I'm doing it.
This is the first time I have ever made a light like this, The die has been cast for this fixture, for now. In the future I can update it with more bells and whistles.
For now, feedback on whether or not the way I am planning on doing it will work would be much appreciated. It might not be the best way, or the most elegant way, or the most flashy way, or even the safest way.... But, will it work?
Once I get it done maybe I will find that more features are desirable and I can upgrade it to have the different colors on different channels so I can adjust the color temperature of the light, and have a built in timer and this and that. That's for later tho.
Will it work the way I'm doing it?