DIY LED Pendants brainstorming. Multichip? Vero18? help me! - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
Those arrays are really nice. They're made by a guy called "Theatrus" ( he posts on RC and is a sponsor on the NBR forum). If money's no object, I'd go with a few of the AcroStar Half-Mega Daylight arrays. They'd provide more color temp tunability than two different colored Vero's. Plus those arrays are designed to work with reflectors right out of the box. Makes your build that much easier.
ok cool nice to hear its good stuff. price differene if I was running the Veros a 1000mah there not that much off watt for watt once you factor in sourcing reflectors and such for them.

any opinion on there driver setups? if I went with 3 there mini driver seems like a nice compact setup. would still need to do the dimming control. any recomendations? should I stick with the bluefish mini like I was talking to you about? Did you have any altrante driver ideas that might have some Pros over the options thru them?
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post #17 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
Those arrays are really nice. They're made by a guy called "Theatrus" ( he posts on RC and is a sponsor on the NBR forum). If money's no object, I'd go with a few of the AcroStar Half-Mega Daylight arrays. They'd provide more color temp tunability than two different colored Vero's. Plus those arrays are designed to work with reflectors right out of the box. Makes your build that much easier.
Need to talk to him about putting a blue on a ww channel...
No deep red, no cyan..
r9 deficient and cyan dip not addressed. Not any different than the Samsung..
Except for the lead time Samsung would still be a personal favorite..
Odd for me to say that.. favoring color supplementing..

to o/p
Bump: Controller is based on need/want w/ heavy on the want more than anything.
your base design needs only 2 channels..
modified TC-420 (or any modified strip dimmer/programmer)
Typhon
Hurricane
Storm
Storm-x
bluefish
Bluefish mini
robotank
ect..


do you want "remote" capability.. To be honest, most of the time one "set and forget"..so a lot is "want" not need..
That said none would be a bad choice..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."

Last edited by jeffkrol; 12-15-2016 at 01:27 PM. Reason: edit
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post #18 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
Those arrays are really nice. They're made by a guy called "Theatrus" ( he posts on RC and is a sponsor on the NBR forum). If money's no object, I'd go with a few of the AcroStar Half-Mega Daylight arrays. They'd provide more color temp tunability than two different colored Vero's. Plus those arrays are designed to work with reflectors right out of the box. Makes your build that much easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Need to talk to him about putting a blue on a ww channel...
No deep red, no cyan..
r9 deficient and cyan dip not addressed. Not any different than the Samsung..
Except for the lead time Samsung would still be a personal favorite..
Odd for me to say that.. favoring color supplementing..

to o/p
Bump: Controller is based on need/want w/ heavy on the want more than anything.
your base design needs only 2 channels..
modified TC-420 (or any modified strip dimmer/programmer)
Typhon
Hurricane
Storm
Storm-x
bluefish
Bluefish mini
robotank
ect..


do you want "remote" capability.. To be honest, most of the time one "set and forget"..so a lot is "want" not need..
That said none would be a bad choice..
I kinda agree on the channel distrobution of the acros. the planted tank strip actually seems a bit better for our uses but no optics on those. that said one of those would make a sweet nano tank light if one rigged one up neatly. I really wish that array with Cree LEDs i'm lookin at on ebay was 5 channel. that would be the ticket would essentially be a kessel at that point completly tuneable color

set and forget is fine. although the ability to be able to override and turn lights on when out to do some work in the tank at ungodly hours would be nice, then have it time out and go back on schedule, I work nights so I do a lot of fish tank stuff on the weekends when everyone is asleep, I I prolly 50% of the time forget to turn the light back on timers when i'm done...won't notice till my plecos aren't keeping up with algea that I never turned the timer back on.

I see the typhoon mentioned often as a popular method in older threads, is anyone still making a complete setup for one? saw mentioned in your TC420 thread that they are only marginally more expensive than a tc420? is that if your were DIYing one or is someon selling a more or less complete deal like the storms that is just wire up and good to go?
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post #19 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 02:09 PM
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Typhon is 4ch, no box, push buttons. TC-420 5ch, box,. USB computer programmable, needs work.
Main differences.
Both are 8 bit dimming. Typhon can be reprogrammed though. Just an Andrino.
Steve's hurricane is still 4ch, w box, 12 bit dimming.
Basically a reprogrammed, boxed Typhon.

I currently have 4 dimmer types and each has its plus and minuses.. That said, awaiting a Bluefish mini to make it 5..

Last edited by jeffkrol; 12-15-2016 at 03:00 PM. Reason: edit
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post #20 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Need to talk to him about putting a blue on a ww channel...
No deep red, no cyan..
r9 deficient and cyan dip not addressed. Not any different than the Samsung..
Except for the lead time Samsung would still be a personal favorite..
Odd for me to say that.. favoring color supplementing..

to o/p
Bump: Controller is based on need/want w/ heavy on the want more than anything.
your base design needs only 2 channels..
modified TC-420 (or any modified strip dimmer/programmer)
Typhon
Hurricane
Storm
Storm-x
bluefish
Bluefish mini
robotank
ect..


do you want "remote" capability.. To be honest, most of the time one "set and forget"..so a lot is "want" not need..
That said none would be a bad choice..

Ok Jeff.... If you could pick the perfect mix of Luxeon C leds for an array with a similar design to what Blue Acro provides for a Fresh water planted tank, what would it be? Give me an idea and I'll design and manufacture it. I've got the tools and equipment to get it done. Jon's tank won't be ready for a few months and I'm in need of a new challenge.

to the OP.... do a search on Fleabay for TDK/Lambda 48V power supplies. They're far better quality than the MeanWell or similar Chinese knock-off offerings. I managed to snag a used but very clean 21amp model for $100. That's more power than I'll ever need, but might be something for you to consider, since you want to power lighting on additional tanks in the future.

225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ dual Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Makers 72" heat sink w/ 12 NanoBox V3 led arrays, custom built CC drivers. All controlled by a BlueFish "mini" Led Controller. iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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post #21 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 06:59 PM
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Ch1 3@ 5000k 1@ bluest cyan bin available.
Ch2 3 @ 2700 2 660nm red

opps corrected errors..

Quote:
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel PLUS (5000K) [120°] x3
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel PLUS (2700K) [120°] x3
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Cyan (490-510nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel DeepRed (650-670nm) [120°] x1
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 1,189 lm
Radiant flux : 4,343 mW
PPF : 20.4 umol/s
TCP : 4050 K
CRI : 85
λp : 659 nm
Color : #FFC47A
----------------------------------------

* PERFORMANCE @ 30cm
----------------------------------------
Irradiance : 5.1 W/mē/s
Illuminance : 1,402 lx
PPFD : 24.1 umol/mē/s
----------------------------------------

by SPECTRA 1.0β @ 1.023world
http://spectra.1023world.net/
minor correction use one 4000k in place of one 5000k

Ch1 2@ 5000k 1@4000k, 1@ bluest cyan bin available.

Problem comes in on "look" 4000k effective vs 7000k..
You penalize CRI @D6500

Let me know if you can get cooler color temps than 5000k for the Luxeons.will adjust

Decided to try for ideal.. Some odd reason Luxeon III
Royal blue is superior to Rebel Royal blue
Ch1 3x2700k, 1x deep red
ch2 2x rebel cool white 1x luxeon III royal blue 1x cyan

Quote:
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Cyan (490-510nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel DeepRed (650-670nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel CoolWhite (4500-10000K) [120°] x2
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel 2700K (2580-2870K) [120°] x3
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-III RoyalBlue (440-460nm) [120°] x1
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 933 lm
Radiant flux : 4,123 mW
PPF : 18.9 umol/s
TCP : 6130 K
CRI : 95
λp : 659 nm
Color : #FFC8CE
----------------------------------------

* PERFORMANCE @ 30cm
----------------------------------------
Irradiance : 4.9 W/mē/s
Illuminance : 1,100 lx
PPFD : 22.3 umol/mē/s
----------------------------------------

by SPECTRA 1.0β @ 1.023world
http://spectra.1023world.net/
Makes no sense..
Quote:
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel RoyalBlue (440-460nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Cyan (490-510nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel DeepRed (650-670nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel CoolWhite (4500-10000K) [120°] x2
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel 2700K (2580-2870K) [120°] x3
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 953 lm
Radiant flux : 4,693 mW
PPF : 21.1 umol/s
TCP : 14490 K
CRI : 65
λp : 659 nm
Color : #D19DFF
----------------------------------------

* PERFORMANCE @ 30cm
----------------------------------------
Irradiance : 5.5 W/mē/s
Illuminance : 1,123 lx
PPFD : 24.9 umol/mē/s
----------------------------------------

by SPECTRA 1.0β @ 1.023world
http://spectra.1023world.net/

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."

Last edited by jeffkrol; 12-15-2016 at 09:03 PM. Reason: edit
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post #22 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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as far as heatsinks did a bit more poking arround. I see a lot of the reefguys who do these types of setup use CPU heatsinks, stock intel heatsinks being a popular choice. I kinda like the form factor of them as well. the top frame the way its built would be a perfect spot to apoxy some sort of hook or mount to hang it like a pendant.



not sure if he bottom contact circle is large enough will need to look at the exact dimensions of both the array and the heatsink, looks like it will have solid contact under the led bits though fine so should be good right?



also in responce to the "perfect acro" talk. I think Jeff is on the right track I did notice when I was looking at the strips I asked the question unknowingly a few months ago of them when I saw one of there ads come accross my facebook stream. and there fresh water strip was described as "2x warm white + 3x 90CRI white + single 720nm red sound? Gives a nice red and blue peaks, with 720nm as well (not visually bright at all)" sounds like jeff is going for the same layout in the acro mold with 1 more red on the warm channel and a blue on the cool channel and I like that idea.
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post #23 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 09:58 PM
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I just finished designing a solder footprint for the Luxeon C. That thing is tiny, but I'm confident that I can solder it LOL. I'm gonna design a layout that mimics BlueAcro's Mega Z array. I'm thinking that we need a minimum of 4 control channels to make this array worthwhile.

Jeff- The C's are available in a variety of colors including the new "Mint", as well as "Warm" & "Cool" White. Got an idea of the number of leds, colors, how they should be mixed across 4 channels? Keep in mind that I'd like to design the arrays in such a way that 2 could be wired in series per driver channel & driven by a 48V - 60V power supply.

Here's the new "C" footprint. It measures 2mm x 2mm.


225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ dual Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Makers 72" heat sink w/ 12 NanoBox V3 led arrays, custom built CC drivers. All controlled by a BlueFish "mini" Led Controller. iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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post #24 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 11:13 PM
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I like to approach this in the "simplistic" way.
First what would be "ideal"?
7 channels
R,G,B,WW,CW, UV,IR..
Next what could be combined or eliminated..
IR (>700nm) probably only important for crop plants and in our use not terribly important to be 1)controlled separately, just lump it in red or 2)inc. at all..
UV (<400nm) .. never is really needed. Possibly can influence red pigment production but.....just lump it in "blue" (which includes >400nm) or skip..

So that leaves 5..

Wrapping blue in w/ cool white is one most logical choice. cool white already ha a high component of blue and is usually best w/ added low K or red diodes..

so you have CWB,WW,R,G

Your worst case parameters limit each channel per chip to 6 to 8 diodes.
Assume you are shooting for 16 per board

so how about ch1 5CW,1B
ch2 5ww
ch3 2 deep red, 1 red
ch4 1 lime, 1 cyan

A bit of interpolation.. green for lime

Quote:
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Blue (460-480nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Cyan (490-510nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Green (520-540nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Red (620-645nm) [120°] x1
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel DeepRed (650-670nm) [120°] x2
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel CoolWhite (4500-10000K) [120°] x5
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel 2700K (2580-2870K) [120°] x5
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 2,143 lm
Radiant flux : 9,905 mW
PPF : 45.7 umol/s
TCP : 7810 K
CRI : 88
λp : 659 nm
Color : #FFA9D7
----------------------------------------

* PERFORMANCE @ 30cm
----------------------------------------
Irradiance : 11.7 W/mē/s
Illuminance : 2,527 lx
PPFD : 53.9 umol/mē/s
----------------------------------------

by SPECTRA 1.0β @ 1.023world
http://spectra.1023world.net/

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
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post #25 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
I just finished designing a solder footprint for the Luxeon C. That thing is tiny, but I'm confident that I can solder it LOL. I'm gonna design a layout that mimics BlueAcro's Mega Z array. I'm thinking that we need a minimum of 4 control channels to make this array worthwhile.

Jeff- The C's are available in a variety of colors including the new "Mint", as well as "Warm" & "Cool" White. Got an idea of the number of leds, colors, how they should be mixed across 4 channels? Keep in mind that I'd like to design the arrays in such a way that 2 could be wired in series per driver channel & driven by a 48V - 60V power supply.

Here's the new "C" footprint. It measures 2mm x 2mm.

Interested in seeing how these turn out. Would be interested in trying some on my 90 gallon paludarium. Is 4 channels the max per board? I've got a bluefish mini so have 6 to play with
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post #26 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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I like that layout Jeff. Only downside I see is putting the blue on Cool White Channel is you lose the ability to use blue heavy light for night/ moon lighting, not sure if I would do that personally. But there are some who like to have that option. Not sure how one would avoid that though without going to 5 channels.

I think I'm going to build a lower power practice fixture with a cheaper 50/50 reef chip for a cube mbuna tank I'm not completely happy with lately to get my feet wet while I wait till next month to really dig into this setup and while I now wait and see what comes of this new array. Really appreciate the help of you guys. I think I'm finally getting my head around the basics of LED lighting
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post #27 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 12:42 AM
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That was a personal choice.. prefer cyan or white for moonlight..



Not sure if the lime/cyan/white would do it, but hey..worth a shot.. This is "experimental"..



Addendum: Est w/ ch3 and 4 off..


"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."

Last edited by jeffkrol; 12-16-2016 at 01:53 AM. Reason: edit
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post #28 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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is that pic with cyan moon lighting? and if so I can see what your saying and I kinda like it, so can see where your going with it.
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post #29 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 04:33 AM
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Yea but consider it more of a "simulation" since it is not my tank and I believe it was a RGB strip w/ b/g fired up for it..
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post #30 of 145 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 04:55 AM
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Making some progress.... 4 channels with 6 leds per channel. Don't mind the wiring traces.... I haven't pick out a connector yet. I designed the overall layout to match the Vero 29 Mechanical footprint. The array is laid out to fit inside and work well with a Ledil Angelina reflector. More to come......


225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ dual Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Makers 72" heat sink w/ 12 NanoBox V3 led arrays, custom built CC drivers. All controlled by a BlueFish "mini" Led Controller. iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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