Cerges' Reactor - DIY Inline CO2 Reactor - Page 47 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #691 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by andyl9063 View Post


The pump is rated for 900gph with no feet lost. There's no feet rise. It's going from reactor down to sump.
The problem is that you don't have any pressure in the chamber which increases the rate of dissolution. In order to create pressure, you'll need to restrict the outflow by using a ball valve or something else. Another way to increase pressure is to place the chamber a few feet below the tank so that the weight of the water on the return increases the pressure. But I'd stick with the ball valve.
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post #692 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 11:36 AM
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How is it hooked up? Is the input going into the reactor then out through the PVC standpipe or in through the PVC standpipe and out the top of the reactor. If you purge the reactor by pushing the red button does the air pocket come back?
input is going into reactor then out through pvc standpipe, like the directional flow on reactor. If I purge it, yes it does, but will go back down eventually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solcielo lawrencia View Post
The problem is that you don't have any pressure in the chamber which increases the rate of dissolution. In order to create pressure, you'll need to restrict the outflow by using a ball valve or something else. Another way to increase pressure is to place the chamber a few feet below the tank so that the weight of the water on the return increases the pressure. But I'd stick with the ball valve.
I do have a ball valve on there, you don't see it?
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post #693 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 12:42 AM
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For everyone using the tee fitting going into the input on the reactor. Is there no diffuser? Just the CO2 like going into a barb on the fitting and merging into the water going into the inlet?

Just gathering parts to build my reactor and doing some thinking. What if I were to run the CO2 tube through the tee and into the inlet so the tubing came down into the down pipe. Then at the end have a diffuser. Would this help at all?

I know overall pressure in the reactor would help as well. Just throwing it out there. I plan on using my reactor on a 29g tank thats using a 220gph canister filter.

I attached a pic of what I was think for routing the tube. Obviously it doesnt have a downpipe or show the tee.
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post #694 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 03:49 AM
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This is how im gonna set mine up, any ideas anyone can think of?
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post #695 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-26-2014, 02:37 AM
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Are you guys doing anything special for diffusing the CO2 going into the Tee fitting? Also, i ran my setup so the output of the canister went into the output of the reactor. This means the water coming in goes down the tube in the middle of the reactor. Problem I'm having is the bubbles I'm getting are large and don't break up in the tube. They just go right thru the tube and out into the reactor as large bubbles right into the tank.

I'm think I have it backwards and need to have the water going into the reactor go into the large canister portion and the middle tube is then getting water from the bottom if the reactor and pushing it to the tank.

Here's my setup. Tried adding a gauge at the top of the canister since I was reading a lot about internal pressure helping disperse CO2. Running with ball valve wide open on the marineland C220 it shows no pressure. If I cut the output back some I can get a flicker and if I cut back nearly all the flow I get maybe 1-2psi.

The valve on top is so I can bleed the air from inside the canister.
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post #696 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-26-2014, 02:54 AM
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Don't expect to get high pressure in the reactor; even a little bit increases dissolution rate. The biggest problem is that the canister filter doesn't have a significant output to begin with so reducing flow will reduce the efficiency of the canister's biological filter as well as reduced flow in the tank which can lead to other problems.
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post #697 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-26-2014, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by NickRummy View Post
Are you guys doing anything special for diffusing the CO2 going into the Tee fitting? Also, i ran my setup so the output of the canister went into the output of the reactor. This means the water coming in goes down the tube in the middle of the reactor. Problem I'm having is the bubbles I'm getting are large and don't break up in the tube. They just go right thru the tube and out into the reactor as large bubbles right into the tank.

I'm think I have it backwards and need to have the water going into the reactor go into the large canister portion and the middle tube is then getting water from the bottom if the reactor and pushing it to the tank.

Here's my setup. Tried adding a gauge at the top of the canister since I was reading a lot about internal pressure helping disperse CO2. Running with ball valve wide open on the marineland C220 it shows no pressure. If I cut the output back some I can get a flicker and if I cut back nearly all the flow I get maybe 1-2psi.

The valve on top is so I can bleed the air from inside the canister.

Just wondering how u made this conection is there a little piece of pipe in there or a type of fitting?
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post #698 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-26-2014, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by newbieplanter View Post
Just wondering how u made this conection is there a little piece of pipe in there or a type of fitting?
Yes, small piece of PVC between the two, primed and glued together.

I read more about using the pipe in the middle of a reactor as the inlet or output and it seems people use it either way. I guess I just need to figure out why the bubbles are so large and not mixing in that center tube.
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post #699 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 11:03 PM
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Here's my issue. CO2 is running right around 2bps. CO2 is coming through the center pipe. CO2 isn't disolving and is just going right through the pipe and into the canister.

Should I reverse input/ouput (like the canister labels suggest) so the water coming in goes into the large canister and out through the standpipe? Will the CO2 just gather in the top of the reactor? It seems like my bubbles are hige compared to others.

Here's a video

http://youtu.be/wUvZ6SEvNU0
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post #700 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by NickRummy View Post
Here's my issue. CO2 is running right around 2bps. CO2 is coming through the center pipe. CO2 isn't disolving and is just going right through the pipe and into the canister.

Should I reverse input/ouput (like the canister labels suggest) so the water coming in goes into the large canister and out through the standpipe? Will the CO2 just gather in the top of the reactor? It seems like my bubbles are hige compared to others.

Here's a video

http://youtu.be/wUvZ6SEvNU0
Yes you should .

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post #701 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 11:31 PM
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yes switch the in and out. I also cut a course filter sponge to fit inside the canister and it's towards the bottom of the tube and it catches the small co2 bubbles and prevents them from exiting the reactor
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post #702 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 11:39 PM
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Ok I was thinking all the bubbles would stay inside the standpipe with it being the inlet but I guess the flow is too strong and just pushed the bubbles right through before breaking them up. I'll get it switched around.
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post #703 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-28-2014, 03:05 AM
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Here's my setup. Tried adding a gauge at the top of the canister since I was reading a lot about internal pressure helping disperse CO2. Running with ball valve wide open on the marineland C220 it shows no pressure. If I cut the output back some I can get a flicker and if I cut back nearly all the flow I get maybe 1-2psi.

The valve on top is so I can bleed the air from inside the canister.
Nickrummy- this is consistent with physics of gas absorption. For example to double CO2 absorption rate by increasing pressure you have to double the pressure (which means 2X atmospheric or 14.7 PSI). There is no way to get even close to a few PSI with conventional aquarium equipment.

To double CO2 absorption better payback is in increasing gas-liquid surface area (ie double the area). Add bioballs or other media with large surface area-not the sintered, ceramic kind with tiny internal pores. Like this - designed for gas exchange:


Just my 2 cents.....
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post #704 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-28-2014, 12:38 PM
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To double CO2 absorption better payback is in increasing gas-liquid surface area (ie double the area). Add bioballs or other media with large surface area-not the sintered, ceramic kind with tiny internal pores. Like this - designed for gas exchange:
I read a lot on this and it seems 50/50 on everyone's opinion. That's the only reason I haven't done anything. I don't see why it would hurt doing this though. Maybe for cleaning it could get messy? It is filtered water....
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post #705 of 869 (permalink) Old 02-28-2014, 03:07 PM
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I think the issue isn't necessarily increased absorption, it's flow. Adding the bio balls and similar may help absorption, some, but it will lower your flow.
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