Cerges' Reactor - DIY Inline CO2 Reactor - Page 42 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #616 of 869 (permalink) Old 10-11-2013, 01:37 AM
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For what you want, place a gate valve on the bypass line. If you want to be sure, but a gate valve on both sides. The idea of having a BV before and after the cerges is nice for cleaning but not needed. That said, I highly doubt you need to restrict the system with a simple cannister. What are you running? Back in the day I had one on a 2028 and it was not enough flow.
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post #617 of 869 (permalink) Old 10-11-2013, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishyboy View Post
For what you want, place a gate valve on the bypass line. If you want to be sure, but a gate valve on both sides. The idea of having a BV before and after the cerges is nice for cleaning but not needed. That said, I highly doubt you need to restrict the system with a simple cannister. What are you running? Back in the day I had one on a 2028 and it was not enough flow.
I have a 75G with 2217 and ISTA MAX MIX (LARGE) at the moment and i see the micro bubble all over the place. I don't like the performance of ISTA as well as i need to crank up the CO2 BPS higher (uncountable from BC). So looking for more efficient way to dissolve co2 into the water.

At the moment, the flow for 2217 seems not enough to give proper circulation that i need ( I use a koralia to help this out ). But this does not mean that cerges will not produce micro bubble. Reducing the 2217 output flow is not an option in my case.
To add another stronger canister filter or a second canister filter as suggested by m00se may be an option, but i try to defer it as a last option (still need to channel the money to other tanks).

I really hope that i can use this bypass method for now. I am planning to use a 10" canister due to tight space i have.
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post #618 of 869 (permalink) Old 10-11-2013, 06:02 PM
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You could always grab one of these bad boys for $55 shipped:

http://goo.gl/M0pR4a

They move a lot of water and you can modify the sponges in them to your heart's content. There are threads here and elsewhere to do it and since it's not your primary filter you could even get creative with the canister contents. Just a thought.
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post #619 of 869 (permalink) Old 10-11-2013, 11:49 PM
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I really doubt you'll need a bypass line with only a 2217.
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post #620 of 869 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 05:39 PM
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I just receive my canister for 10" ... unfortunately it come with 1/2" port ... will this work ?
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post #621 of 869 (permalink) Old 11-08-2013, 10:18 PM
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Thumbs up Cerges 20" with 2217

JUST TO UPDATE:
I receive the 20" canister last weekend and has been using it for couple of days. The added air release button is a requirement for 20" as i will not be able to turn it upside down inside the stand.

I add the bypass line with valve, and leave the one to the cerges line without valve as limited on space to manouver the tubing.

with 2217, I don't seem a need to open the valve on bypass line (or use the bypass line at all) as i really see less/unnoticeable micro bubble return into the tank. Perhaps later if i use bigger filter flow (or if the bubble noticeable after filter maintenance), i might use the bypass line valve. So i decide to leave the valve as it is.

Name:  Cerges-with-bypass.JPG
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Performance wise compared to ISTA max mix large, is much better.
I can push more CO2 faster (my fish showed a little stress with the cerges in place, so i backed out on BPS) and giving a rest to the solenoid to operate less time (monitored through PH controller).
The DC (4dKH+Bromo) showing YELLOW at 6.1/6.2 mark on PH controller within an hour or less (using ISTA, i have to turned on 2 hour prior light on -- and not even got the YELLOW).

I will monitor for a while using the cerges setup to see if i need further improvement to dissolve CO2.

Thanks Guys for the advice ... !!!
This thread is really helpful ...

Last edited by geesantoz; 11-08-2013 at 10:27 PM. Reason: add picture
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post #622 of 869 (permalink) Old 12-19-2013, 04:28 PM
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so um I'm a visual learner and want to make this reactor. is there a place where the original pictures have been stashed?
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post #623 of 869 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 12:11 AM
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if anyone is interested, I have three 90 deg nylon elbows (3/4" x 5/8" barb) left from a cerges build.

meisterluv: if you google images for cerges reactor you can get an idea of how it is put together.
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post #624 of 869 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 04:30 PM
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What is the needle piece called?

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post #625 of 869 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 04:43 PM
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A hose barb
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post #626 of 869 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 03:06 PM
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I am getting ready to set up my first high tech tank and bought a 20" filter as recommended here on the thread:
http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...lear-pr20.html
It will be powered by a fluval 406 on a 40B. My question is, what is the consensus on how to deliver the co2? Should I drill the top or use a tee? If a tee then barb up or down? I guess I am planning on putting a ball valve before and after the reactor as well. Thanks
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post #627 of 869 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highlander View Post
I am getting ready to set up my first high tech tank and bought a 20" filter as recommended here on the thread:
http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...lear-pr20.html
It will be powered by a fluval 406 on a 40B. My question is, what is the consensus on how to deliver the co2? Should I drill the top or use a tee? If a tee then barb up or down? I guess I am planning on putting a ball valve before and after the reactor as well. Thanks
I just got 2 of these WHFs 1 big an 1 small an both are drilled at the top where I guess either a relief valve of some sort was, an CO2 hose was inserted so the CO2 is delivered into the chamber an mixes with the water an as the water exits goes to the tank already mixed with CO2. I haven't put the system together yet but this is what I get from the info I read on this build.
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post #628 of 869 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 04:13 PM
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That's where the bleed off valve used to be and I don't recommend you remove it on a new one. Yes you can interference fit vinyl hose through the hole and yes it will work that way without trouble. You *really* want that valve to be able to purge air out of the unit though. My setup has a separate pump/spray bar and I put the CO2 on the output of the pump with a T to a nipple to CO2 then to the WHF. You could do that too with the output of the canister. That's what I recommend.
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post #629 of 869 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 05:40 PM
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Thanks, I was hoping you would reply Moose. I intend to keep the relief valve because I want the the ability to purge the air without having to turn the whole thing upside down. Honestly I would like to try and avoid using a separate pump and spray bar. I would like as little as possible in the tank. I will try and just use the Fluval 406 to see if that works, if not then I would probably get a separate pump. So in me leaving the relief valve, could I drill a hole into the head unit and the co2 line in there or is using a tee better?
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post #630 of 869 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 05:57 PM
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Also, if I were to run a separate pump for the reactor, what would you recommend for a 40B? I was looking at a mag 2. I would also like the option to put a uv sterilizer inline with the mag pump if needed in the future along with the reactor. The fluval 406 already has a high turnover rate for a 40 gallon. Do you mind posting or sending me a pic of the set up (inside the tank, not the stand). I just want to see if I think it is too cluttered for my preferences. Lol. Now that I start thinking about it, I think a separate pump is the way to go.
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