Hacking the Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 LED light - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 04:17 AM
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This is very interesting information! Thank you for sharing.

I have two 24" fresh and plant LED lights with the wifi controller. I have been having an issue where the lights will suddenly turn blue. The lights will turn off, then briefly flash white, then turn blue. To fix this I need to log back into the wifi controller. As soon as I log back in the lights will return to normal.

I have noticed that the power adapters for my lights get very hot! Almost too hot to touch. I know this is not good. I have orders two 24V 3A switching power adapters to replace the original fluval branded 24V 1A adapters.

My theory is that the power adapters are unable to supply enough power to the lights and controller. The power adapters will then temporary switch off, then back on. The lights only seem to misbehave when they are running on full power.

Has anyone else experienced an issue with the power adapters heating up or lights randomly turning blue with the wifi controller?
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post #32 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeiklesAndDimes View Post
This is very interesting information! Thank you for sharing.

I have two 24" fresh and plant LED lights with the wifi controller. I have been having an issue where the lights will suddenly turn blue. The lights will turn off, then briefly flash white, then turn blue. To fix this I need to log back into the wifi controller. As soon as I log back in the lights will return to normal.

I have noticed that the power adapters for my lights get very hot! Almost too hot to touch. I know this is not good. I have orders two 24V 3A switching power adapters to replace the original fluval branded 24V 1A adapters.

My theory is that the power adapters are unable to supply enough power to the lights and controller. The power adapters will then temporary switch off, then back on. The lights only seem to misbehave when they are running on full power.

Has anyone else experienced an issue with the power adapters heating up or lights randomly turning blue with the wifi controller?
Yes. I have one 36" Planted 2.0 and occasionally the schedule misbehaves. Logging in to the WiFi module corrects this. I'd love to be able to ditch their controller and use my Apex instead.
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post #33 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 05:57 AM
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@MeiklesAndDimes: I did a review in the Lighting forum on the wireless controller under the Fluval Plant LED 2.0 thread. I suspect that misbehaving wireless controller is due to WiFi or other electronic interference.
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post #34 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 09:21 PM
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Could you supply me with the website where you purchased this 24V 3A power supply?
Mine ended up getting so hot it melted a spot in the casing.
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post #35 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 12:25 PM
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Dont know if anybody did make this work.. i know i did :-)

Found out that the PWM signal just have to be a GND pwm !! used a TIP122 to do this and then it works like a charm.

The wiring is :

yellow = GND
White = 24v
Red = All whites and red leds
Black = Blue.

So just feed gnd/gnd pwm to red and black and you can control it.

https://youtu.be/kPqia2FrTJo
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Last edited by Martin Nyborg Sørensen; 02-15-2017 at 02:02 PM. Reason: video
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post #36 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 02:23 PM
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TC-420 should work

Quote:
Five CMOS drain -open output Connecting Mode: Common anode Max load current: 4A each color

Last edited by jeffkrol; 02-16-2017 at 08:13 PM. Reason: edit
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post #37 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 07:40 PM
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Tc420

Dont know about the TC420.. im building my own controller with 4 channels for light on a Arduino.
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post #38 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin Nyborg Sørensen View Post
Dont know about the TC420.. im building my own controller with 4 channels for light on a Arduino.
What current is the outputs rated for?
Strip lighting (like the above) PWM-lates the full current draw..
Aduino PWM is like 3-5.5 and capable of little in current draw..

You will need to pwm power MOSFETs if you are planning constant voltage strips..like the Fluval/Beamswork/Sat./finnex..if you are going to control things like a Meanwell LDD
that is a differnt story..

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post #39 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:03 AM
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Aha. I was waiting for someone to verify the pins and PWM method in the light. Quick question, when you say ground pwm are you saying that we are controlling the cathode side of the LEDs? (EG if I put the red wire straight to ground i get a lit light?)
Either way a power MOSFET would be necessary, far too much current to pull out of an arduino. Although I wonder if you could just use a motor shield with a high enough current rating...
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post #40 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 03:49 PM
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"I" can't say for sure w/ the Fluval. I do know that when a Finnex planted plus was "split"into 3 channels (RWB) it was found that they used "negative" as common but the TC-420 was positive ground.. so, since the tc-420 had built in MOSFETS but of the wrong config, they had to be reversed..thus the external ones.. Just throwing this in for reference sake..

not an issue if building from scratch..

PNP Mosfet or NPN mosfet will depend on the Fluval common ground polarity..

TC-420 is really a "pre-programmed Aduino in a box with MOSFET output"....

http://www.tc420.net/connecting-high...-the-TC420.php

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 02-17-2017 at 04:09 PM. Reason: edit
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post #41 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 12:50 PM
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Great project thank you for sharing

Brian Rodgers
Aquarium Size: 50 gallon, Aquarium Type: Glass, Fluval 306 canister filter. Beamswork LED 48 inch.
Fish: Dwarf Gourami, Black Skirt Tetras, Otos, lonely Silver Dollar, Plants Jungle Vallisneria, Ludwigia Repens, LUFFY Philippines Java Fern. Ludwigia Peruensis and Cryptocoryne Wendtii added 1-10-2017
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post #42 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 01:17 PM
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this project makes a sophomore feel like this
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post #43 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
"I" can't say for sure w/ the Fluval. I do know that when a Finnex planted plus was "split"into 3 channels (RWB) it was found that they used "negative" as common but the TC-420 was positive ground.. so, since the tc-420 had built in MOSFETS but of the wrong config, they had to be reversed..thus the external ones.. Just throwing this in for reference sake..

not an issue if building from scratch..

PNP Mosfet or NPN mosfet will depend on the Fluval common ground polarity..

TC-420 is really a "pre-programmed Aduino in a box with MOSFET output"....

Connecting high power LEDs to the TC420
Maybe I missed this in analog, but how could we tell the common ground polarity of an LED without physically looking at it?
Is it as simple as probing the light between the +24 and the individual channels?

Bump:
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Originally Posted by BettaBettas View Post
this project makes a sophomore feel like this
I am a Junior (Computer engineering) and while I understand it it's not all fully clear.
You will know all about MOSFETS soon enough...
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post #44 of 55 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 11:39 PM
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Is that a Bluetooth LE module on your Arduino? If it is I wrote an android app that interfaces with mine, just got it all together yesterday. Works pretty decent. Day/Night progress bars indicate current lamp levels.
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post #45 of 55 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 03:07 PM
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Has anyone else experienced an issue with the power adapters heating up or lights randomly turning blue with the wifi controller?
Hi @Sennithgrey,

I started the comparison thread on the Fluval F&P 2.0 and I had that issue when I purchased my second fixture to use on my 75 gallon in conjunction with 2X55W AH Supply power compact fixtures. The new Fluval F&P 2.0 would rapidly cycle between off/all/blue only over and over.

I found the problem, the electronic ballasts for the power compact fixtures which were mounted inside the fixtures were putting out electromagnetic interference (EMI) that was causing the issue - not running the power compact fixtures resolved the problem. I am in the process of re-wiring my power compact fixtures to relocate the ballasts for the power compact fixtures away from the Fluval F&P 2.0 and eliminate the EMI issues.

Roy
75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1XFluval F&P 2.0 48"/59W, 2X Marineland 350 Magnum filters; 45 Gallon Tall, 96Watt AH Supply CF 6700K, 1X Marineland 350 Magnum filter; 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0 36"/46W, Marineland C-220 filter; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED kit, Marineland C-160 filter; all with Press. CO2 and (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
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