Beginners Guide to Aquarium Photography - Page 4 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #46 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 10:47 PM
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Good read. How do the pros do it is my question? The camera settings are always talked about but what about the tank setup? Should the tank be back lit? Most pro shots are done without any equipment of course but how do they make he ripple effect? With a fan? Should the room be dark, maybe curtains behind you to deflect any and all external light to avoid reflections? I could never find anything on the net or youtube for some reason. Comments, suggestions.... I would love to learn and I think that would be a great addition to this sticky.

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post #47 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 10:43 AM
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Is the SLT better version than DSLR?

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post #48 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 12:27 PM
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Good. Informative. Would definetly share it with my friends who are interested in photography. It can provide them with really useful tips.

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post #49 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 09:37 PM
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Thank you for writing your post. I've only read 2 pages, but it's very exciiting! I've never known what to do with all the buttons and menus except the most necessary ones, like 'Aquarium Mode' I have a several years old Canon PowerShot 1000. The manual is online PDF. If anyone has the inclination, I would really appreciate any comments on the manual.

The link to the PDF manual is:

Thank you!

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post #50 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 02:50 AM
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A DSLR/SLT/mirroless camera should easily be able to take a good image of an aquarium.
Recent images that I have posted were taken using Program mode ... my camera used ISO 500, 1/60s @ f/2.8 ... 16mm (APS-C). Now I will say my camera has stabilization on sensor ... many current lenses have optical stabilization, so hand holding should not be a problem.
Other than camera shake, post processing would improve the overall image ... like adjusting white balance and highlights. Most cameras tend to come with some imaging application.

Using a point and shoot or phone may pose some problems with low shutter speed ... you could probably keep it steady on something, but moving objects would get blurred. More advanced point and shoots come with some semi or full manual control over shutter speed ... but may be defeated with low ISO (and lens aperture) to get enough light ... though most of the people on this forum have higher PAR lighting than what I have.


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