Finnex RAY II & FugeRAY PAR Data - Page 4 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #46 of 60 (permalink) Old 11-19-2013, 10:51 PM
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so one plant + or ray2 is stronger than 2 fugerays ?
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post #47 of 60 (permalink) Old 11-19-2013, 11:04 PM
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im sorry if these are dumb question just the guys at the lfs told me that 2 fugerays would be better than one ray2
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post #48 of 60 (permalink) Old 11-24-2013, 03:46 PM
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planted + is a fuge ray

In my opinion one Ray 2 is brighter than 2 planted+
I agree with your LFS- you might try it in combo with a T5HO

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post #49 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-07-2013, 02:41 AM
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What's the point of par values in free air?
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post #50 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 07:00 PM
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Can someone tell me what optics are used on each of the Ray II fixtures? Or where I can find the information myself? Thanks
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post #51 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlantedTankRookie View Post
Based on the PAR charts, I don't think there will be any dark areas.
The 48" version has two 24" LED strips yet the PAR on the 48" is significantly above the PAR on the 24." Since they use the same LEDs, the only way this is possible is if there is a decent spread of light off the ends of the fixture.
24" has 192 HO LEDs, 20 watts.
48" has 384 HO LEDs, 39 watts.
I've seen both of these fixtures, the 48" has two 22.5" LED strips and the 24" has one 22.5" LED strip.
If the charts are correct then there is significant light off the ends. There isn't any other way to explain the PAR difference between the two fixtures.

Ditto on the 18" (144 LED, 15w) and 36" (384 LED, 29w). 36" contains 2 of the LED strips that come in the 18" version yet the PAR under center is higher for the 36."

FWIW, I use two 30" and one 24" on my 72" wide 125 gallon. They sit nicely on the glass canopy and they are only about 3" in depth so they are easy to stagger. The unlit 3" at each end of the 30" is a perfect spot to attach moon light LEDs.
Finnex recommends that you do not place the fixture flush on the glass canopy (put the mounting clamps on and then rest the fixture on the canopy).
Can someone explain this better? How does the 48" long fixture have more PAR than the 24" long fixture? I'm almost convinced that this was in error by the person testing for PAR, which makes me not believe any of their PAR numbers. If the 48" is just two 24" side by side then the par would be exactly the same. Especially since I was told these fixtures don't use optics like some of the other brands.
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post #52 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 02:06 PM
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Can someone explain this better? How does the 48" long fixture have more PAR than the 24" long fixture? I'm almost convinced that this was in error by the person testing for PAR, which makes me not believe any of their PAR numbers. If the 48" is just two 24" side by side then the par would be exactly the same. Especially since I was told these fixtures don't use optics like some of the other brands.
look at it this way, each fixture is made up of lots of small lights, and as you said they don't have narrow focus optics - more like a flood light than a spotlight.

If you put one old fashioned incandescent floodlight, say 25 watts, in a dark room and point it at the ceiling it will light up the room dimly. Add a second and the room will be brighter - even if it is pointed at a different part of the ceiling (because they are wide angle floods). Add 30 of these lights and you now have overlapping coverage all over the ceiling - and 800 watts total.

Say the room is very long and you started at the right end. Even as you add more light to the left side of the line of lights the overspill is going to increase the light hitting the right side too, and (jumping back to an aquarium) give more PAR to the right end as well as the left.

In lights that have narrow optics this effect would be much less (more like a line of narrow focused spotlights)
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post #53 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 06:55 PM
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look at it this way, each fixture is made up of lots of small lights, and as you said they don't have narrow focus optics - more like a flood light than a spotlight.

If you put one old fashioned incandescent floodlight, say 25 watts, in a dark room and point it at the ceiling it will light up the room dimly. Add a second and the room will be brighter - even if it is pointed at a different part of the ceiling (because they are wide angle floods). Add 30 of these lights and you now have overlapping coverage all over the ceiling - and 800 watts total.

Say the room is very long and you started at the right end. Even as you add more light to the left side of the line of lights the overspill is going to increase the light hitting the right side too, and (jumping back to an aquarium) give more PAR to the right end as well as the left.

In lights that have narrow optics this effect would be much less (more like a line of narrow focused spotlights)
So going by your math, the PAR of all fixtures would be greater at the middle than on the ends? Sounds reasonable. If that's the case, where are Finnex's numbers being measured, on the ends or in the middle? It also means that in order for the LED's on one end of a 4ft fixture to affect the PAR on the complete opposite side, one single LED has to have a spread of 4ft (at 18" from measuring point). Is that true? That seems like a huge waste on any fixture that is smaller than 4ft, which is every single one of their fixtures, minus the 4ft one.

Edit - I realize nothing you said claims that the LED's on the far right of a 4ft fixture are affecting the PAR on the far left side of the fixture, just that the spread of the LED's is greater than 2ft, thus creating more par on a 4ft fixture than the 2ft fixture.

I guess what i'm really looking to find is the angle of spread on each LED. Aren't most LED's 120?

Last edited by Shark_; 03-26-2014 at 07:05 PM. Reason: Additions
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post #54 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 07:11 PM
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Also, rather than showing PAR via an end view like all the charts on page 1, does anyone have PAR shown from a front view?
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post #55 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-07-2014, 04:45 AM
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I have a 40G breeder tank I'm currently in the process of setting up (slowly). I already have a 36 inch ray II, and I know I need one more light fixture on it to not have the back and front be very dim. What I don't know is if I should get a second ray II, or a fugeray or planted +. I'll be dosing ferts and pumping in CO2, so my goal for PAR is minimum 60, max of about 90. The dimensions of the tank are 36X18X17. Thanks
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post #56 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-07-2014, 03:45 PM
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might as well go for the Ray2 if your aim is high PAR. A Planted+ added on to the Ray2 looks really nice though.

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post #57 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 02:28 AM
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What does distance (0, 3, 6, 9 in.) along the X-axis mean?
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post #58 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 08:28 PM
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What does distance (0, 3, 6, 9 in.) along the X-axis mean?
Distance from the center of the light, ie. 3 inches out from under the light etc.
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post #59 of 60 (permalink) Old 07-10-2014, 09:40 PM
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Sorry if this is a dumb question. I realize that different plants require different amounts of light, but is there an "ideal PAR range" that i should be aiming towards?
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post #60 of 60 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 02:38 AM
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is there a chart like this for current
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