Hopefully adding all this up I get it here where it still makes sense to somebody.
Hardcore Quarantine FYI
With established long term quarantine I have added 25 panda's and 25 otto's in a single purchase. (Again this tank is pre-set and always fully cycled.) Using smaller tanks like 10g tanks I would suggest a sponge filter and bare bottom so you can keep them clean and use partial to 50% changes from your main tank daily or new water daily. 10g tanks can have the water quality go south very quickly.
Entry quarantine for me is about 45 days. Separate EVERYTHING for the QT.
Nets hoses etc. need to be treated/cleaned before touching your other tanks.
Have any sea salt? Rock salt for a water conditioner?
Tall Tupperware or extra bucket? Add salt to the water until the water column reaches saturation and no more salt will dissolve. Some salt lying on the bottom of the container that won't do anything but sit there in crystal form tells you you're at saturation. Drop tools into this bucket to soak a few minutes and very few things can survive rinse the tool and on to the next tank. I like H2O2 but the reaction can be in question with the organics breaking it down so fast. Salt doesn't evaporate only the water so this 'kill bucket' is good until you get tired of looking at it or it gets smelly. (pet store trick)
I use H2O2 for cleaning hoses by mixing 1qt H2O2 with 1g of RO water placing both ends of my siphon hose in the bucket with a power head shoved in one end. I cycle the peroxide solution through it overnight once a week on my longer main tank drain hose and use a separate shorter hose for the QT tank. Bleach is used by many but I stop at peroxide. HP is a strong enough oxidizer (imo).
Worked hard establishing my systems and like the fish I have.
I would not expose them to other acquired fish without a full quarantine including parasite and deworming treatments. Sick fish are very hard for a hobbyist to treat so I avoid the potential being very careful.
Some of my personal experiences posted to the web and my thoughts handling fish. (learning the hard way)
The treatment most miss all together is to WORM YOUR FISH! We treat our dogs, cats, pigs, horses, cows,,, the list is endless. But not our fish. Not anymore for this fish keeper.
I now start internally with all new fish and go from there.
1st flubendazole, 2nd levaisole hcl and metronidazole, most everything's covered for parasites.
Flubendazole and Levaisole hcl are water column dosed and help even when fish hunger strikes.
Flubendazole is a plant safe parasite treatment but has to be ordered online (to my knowledge). It covers a broad range of bugs too. (not all but a bunch) *** it also kills snails but is safe for shrimp by user reports including folks here on TPT.
Velvet and Ick are also covered by a flu treatment Doc sells as little or as much as you want.
Other sources are out there in the UK and maybe others via the web but I’ve ordered from ‘the Doc’.
Bare tank treatments during quarantine if trouble is discovered.
External treatments include H2O2 and salt. (salt use is really rare for me)
Initial bacterial treatment (bare tank scaled fish only) if indicated is a 3% HP bath.
Standard over the counter 3% hydrogen peroxide mixed to 10mL per gallon.
Maximum Dosage Information Provided!!!!
1 U.S. Teaspoon = 4.92892159 milliliters
2 teaspoons of H2O2 per gallon is perfect!
2-3 hour soak then 50% WC, 24hrs. later another 25% WC and the treatment is complete.
This treatment is the dose used to kill algae and practically all bacteria and parasites, protozoan’s, etc.
3% topical hydrogen peroxide treatment in an established quarantine tank.
Treatment of 10mL per gallon is still the dose used. Established treatment at this dosage is to isolate the filter (shut it down) allow for circulation with a power head or air stone. 3-5 hour stand time (longer due to tank bacteria, gravel etc,) on the treatment then do a 50% water change followed by a 25% water change after 24 hours. The filter can be restarted after the 50% water change. Delicate plants can melt.
This is the highest dosing of HP recommended by fish breeders on my other favorite website. I've used this dosing level twice to good result and followed the water changing recommendation. Not a chemist or Vet this stuff is personal experience.
HP has strong oxidizing properties. The oxidizing capacity of hydrogen peroxide is so strong that it is considered a highly reactive oxygen. (Wikipedia)
H2O2 effects the slime coat and really weakened fish don't handle it well. Scaleless fish are burned bad enough not to survive. Cory, Loach and pleco’s have reacted badly to high level HP baths.
Back in 2009 I treated my Angels with H2O2 and antibiotic's both gram negative and positive. Thought it helped. Knocked back the external signs but left latent parasites internal to the fish that destroyed them from the inside out over time.
I asked JP for his recipe as I don't use it much.
This bath is in a separate container with a close eye on the fish.
Many different methods, Ted just uses his brine shrimp solution (if that’s like mine it’s 1/2cup per gallon).
I prefer to start with 2Tsp per gallon and increase at 10-minute intervals until I get to 6Tsp per gallon total. That way they’ve been in the salt longer and my logic tells me that the parasite, etc. has been exposed longer. With Ted’s method, I would think fish would roll in a few minutes. With my method, they will generally roll within a few minutes @ 6Tsp per gallon – some roll at 4tsp/gal.
Pre-dissolve the salt and add slowly from side containers.
Set up your gallon container (bucket or whatever) with the first 2 tsp dissolved in it and have cups holding the remaining salt in solution.
Watch the fish the whole time.
When the fish heels over (rolls belly up, on its side in distress) net it and put it back in the tank.
*** This is angelfish treatment information. Scaleless fish such as loaches, Cory do not tolerate salt well at all and salt baths generally kill them.
Hopefully some of this will be useful to you or tucked away until it is.