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Is my car going to die

7K views 39 replies 21 participants last post by  kevmo911 
#1 ·
I just thought I would ask, I have a 2003 Subaru Legacy Wagon Special Edition that has a problem.

I just don't want to schedule any trips to areas unfamiliar to my mom, because my mom is so unbelievably directionally challenged and no one will be able to rescue me if the car does die!!


This problem is, that when I drive anything faster than 35 MPH, the front of my car starts making a loud humming/thumping woom woom woom sound AND it gets painfully louder as I drive faster, or accelerate and slight turn at the same time. Hard to describe the sound.... like a somewhat weird sounding helicopter... a propeller type sound I suppose. The sound is the same, but it gets faster and louder the faster I drive.

And yes... unfortunately, I was late on my last maintenance in November and we went to Oil Can Henry's and they said I was driving without Oil. And then they said they would fill up my coolant, but they never did. Then my mom remembered, and we looked ourselves and apparently I also had no Coolant, so we filled the Coolant ourselves.


I'm not sure if this is an engine problem or what, so that way I can send the Appointment Form on the Dealer's site for an Engine problem or something else problem. :help:



Oh yea, this problem started to happen before my lateness to my maintainence, I thought after the oil change and stuff that the noise level went down a notch but it could have been just me. But now the noise seems to have gotten a lot worst, much louder!! Also we got the Tires Rotated sometime in December. I got all four brakes and some belt changed in late 2009 or beginning 2010. My mom said they already changed the tires on this car few years ago. This car hasn't been washed for a year or so. I can't think of anything else.
 
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#4 ·
Sounds to me to be a front end problem. Maybe a warped rotor etc. for the form, I would just state what you stated here, that it makes a whoping sound when increasing speed, that way they check the whole system
 
#6 ·
Okay, I will write that. Now my mom wants me to go shopping for a place that will fix the problem for the cheapest... wow I'm tired can't we just get it fixed at the dealer's jeeeeeeeez. :sleep::angryfire

There should be both an oil pressure gauge and a low engine oil warning light to tell you when you need oil.

If the engine has a crack in the engine block preventing it from holding oil for very long than most people would consider the engine beyond repair. Fixing cracked engine blocks isn't practical.

Driving a car without enough oil in it for very long will kill it.
Ohh okay, well the light never lit up back then. The Oil Can Henry dude said it was below the stick so either I was driving without oil or I have barely any left. So we did an Engine Flush or something like that cuz he said that whatever I have left is probably some hard sticky useless junk.
 
#5 ·
There should be both an oil pressure gauge and a low engine oil warning light to tell you when you need oil.

If the engine has a crack in the engine block preventing it from holding oil for very long than most people would consider the engine beyond repair. Fixing cracked engine blocks isn't practical.

Driving a car without enough oil in it for very long will kill it.
 
#12 ·
Okay I will tomorrow morning. I actually think my problem has to due with my WHEELS. I've always felt that way... ever since I got my brakes change, I felt my Wheels were a little strange, but it took several months after the brake change for the really annoying loud humming sound to start.

I always thought I felt my wheels slid or wobble ever so slightly during certain times, but I thought it was just me. Then also when I drive on the ice and slide (since my car doesn't stop very well on snow/ice) my car doesn't slide to a stop straight even though I have the steering stright, it always stops at an slight angle like this: /
But that could be just because of the ice.

Wow, I hope my engine doesn't blow up any time soon...
 
#10 ·
Subarus use a lot of oil and their sensors are pretty late to light up. If your engine hasn't been destroyed, check your oil at least once a month.

That said, you should tell the mechanic if you notice anything different about how it steers. Whether the noise gets louder when you are accelerating (like getting on the freeway) or slowing down. Does it only happen when the car is moving, or does it happen when the car is in park/neutral and you press the accelerator?

From this part of your description "louder as I drive faster, or accelerate and slight turn at the same time" it sounds like the 'constant velocity' (CV) joint on one or both of the front axles is going out.

Killer first post to a planted tank forum, huh? I expect to learn a lot on here, but cars are something I already know, so I guess I'm paying in advance for the education I expect to get here.

Good luck with your car. And keep an eye on your fluids, there aren't any automatic top off systems in cars yet.
 
#14 ·
Nice 1st post hehe. Welcome!!

Anyways, yes, I guess I shall check my fluids more often. My parents only do it once a year, but I drive more often than they do so it is a good idea.

The sound only happens when I accelerate, the sound returns to a normal level at under 30MPH or at stop. I haven't shifted to Neutral ever.

is the noise coming from the engine something else? if u have sludge build up i would recomend a can of moa44 it will clean alot of sludge built up as long as u follow the directions. if it was your rotors you should probably feel a vibration through the break pedal, if it the noise gets faster with speed i would shut the car off and check to see if the fan is warn out (only when car is off) by grabbing it and seeing if it wiggles if so its bad, i would also check the lugs on the tires ive know of noises like that from the wheel having play from being loose. my gut is saying if it has a helicopter sound it could very well be a loose fan, if it is that and doesnt get fixed it can and will go through the front end ratiator and all and cause extensive damage could also go though the hood ive seen some crazy things happen with cars. but without more info its us just guessing what it probably is. i would not drive it unless it was to the shop or someone that knows there way around a car!!
Wow, I'm not sure at all. But I'll call Subaru tomorrow and try to use some exaggeration to make it seem more like an emergency so they can get me in sooner. I don't want a fan flying around or some crazy thing O_O
 
#11 ·
is the noise coming from the engine something else? if u have sludge build up i would recomend a can of moa44 it will clean alot of sludge built up as long as u follow the directions. if it was your rotors you should probably feel a vibration through the break pedal, if it the noise gets faster with speed i would shut the car off and check to see if the fan is warn out (only when car is off) by grabbing it and seeing if it wiggles if so its bad, i would also check the lugs on the tires ive know of noises like that from the wheel having play from being loose. my gut is saying if it has a helicopter sound it could very well be a loose fan, if it is that and doesnt get fixed it can and will go through the front end ratiator and all and cause extensive damage could also go though the hood ive seen some crazy things happen with cars. but without more info its us just guessing what it probably is. i would not drive it unless it was to the shop or someone that knows there way around a car!!
 
#16 ·
My money is on CV joints or possibly a wheel bearing. Jack the car up, lock the steering, and see if you can wobble the wheel by hand (make sure the whole steering knuckle isn't moving. That's more about the tie rods.). If so, the bearing is shot. If it tends to click when you turn, it's more likely a cv joint. Warped rotors usually are only noticeable when you apply the brake. The fact that it changes frequency as you accelerate, means its most likely near the wheel. If it was engine related, it would change tempo or pitch with every shift of the transmission.

You could also have broken belts in your tire if they're severely worn, which can cause noise and wobbling.
 
#19 ·
My money is on CV joints or possibly a wheel bearing. Jack the car up, lock the steering, and see if you can wobble the wheel by hand (make sure the whole steering knuckle isn't moving. That's more about the tie rods.). If so, the bearing is shot. If it tends to click when you turn, it's more likely a cv joint. Warped rotors usually are only noticeable when you apply the brake. The fact that it changes frequency as you accelerate, means its most likely near the wheel. If it was engine related, it would change tempo or pitch with every shift of the transmission.

You could also have broken belts in your tire if they're severly worn, which can cause noise and wobbling.

Ohh okay, well I'm not familiar with all that stuff. I only know how to change the tires (though it has been years since I've last done it) and pump the tires up with air, change headlights and fill the coolant and windshield wash, that's it. I'm not even sure my jack can lift up the car that high, does it need to be high? o_O
 
#17 ·
Yeah, it's been going on for at least 4 months now, hopefully isn't gonna blow up anytime soon.

Well now I told this all to my mom and she doesn't want me to drive the car, cuz she is afraid the tires might fly out and kill someone just like what happened to someone on the news. I filled out the form to see the service techs at the Dealer's, but my mom is gonna call them tomorrow and try to get me in ASAP.
 
#21 ·
Yeah, it's been going on for at least 4 months now, hopefully isn't gonna blow up anytime soon.

Well now I told this all to my mom and she doesn't want me to drive the car, cuz she is afraid the tires might fly out and kill someone just like what happened to someone on the news. I filled out the form to see the service techs at the Dealer's, but my mom is gonna call them tomorrow and try to get me in ASAP.
If that other guy is right about the CV boot than maybe your mom's fears are well grounded. A leaking CV boot can cause one tire to slowly stop turning causing the car to veer to that side. But checking CV boots is easy and I think its part of a standard oil change. Or at least its checked during a tune up. When you get your oil change don't skimp by going to places that just change the oil, make sure you get the standard list of checks done.
 
#18 ·
if your car is pulling when u stop it should be your brake system warn pad, warped rotor or calaper piston is sticking. if you open your hood and just grab the base of the fan u can pull on it up or down and it shouldnt move up or down should only spin, now after u say it pulls when u stop i belive its going to be your brakes its more of a wear part than your fan. if the car pulls to the side while ur driving to i would check the alignment and tire pressure.
if your tires arent balanced or the weight came off it can and will give u a tire wobble while u drive, it can be unnoticeable at lower speeds. its hard to say without listening to it or driving it but u now have some ideas on what it probably is(brakes) a dealership will charge alot more than a shop though just some food for thought norm there like 85+hr shop rate thats why i always go to a garage shop. hope it helps
 
#20 ·
Subarus have strong car clubs. This one is in Colorado: http://subieco.webs.com/ This one is national, but someone on there live in your area: www.nasioc.com

If you don't check your oil, I'm guessing you aren't going to jack up your car and check for bearing wear or a loose fan, but one of the people in the club might be able to tell you where to best get your car worked on and might even be willing to take a look at it for you. Looks like their next meeting is on the 4th, if you show up with your car, you could get better advise than any of us can give you.
 
#23 ·
Subarus have strong car clubs. This one is in Colorado: http://subieco.webs.com/ This one is national, but someone on there live in your area: www.nasioc.com

If you don't check your oil, I'm guessing you aren't going to jack up your car and check for bearing wear or a loose fan, but one of the people in the club might be able to tell you where to best get your car worked on and might even be willing to take a look at it for you. Looks like their next meeting is on the 4th, if you show up with your car, you could get better advise than any of us can give you.
Okay well, my mom scheduled to have me bring it to the Subaru Dealer on the 4th so I'm kinda outta luck. I'll keep those in mind next time when this car has a problem, which will probably be in a few month after this gets fixed. Thanks!!

If that other guy is right about the CV boot than maybe your mom's fears are well grounded. A leaking CV boot can cause one tire to slowly stop turning causing the car to veer to that side. But checking CV boots is easy and I think its part of a standard oil change. Or at least its checked during a tune up. When you get your oil change don't skimp by going to places that just change the oil, make sure you get the standard list of checks done.
Yea, sometime ago the new reported on an fatal accident regarding someone was driving on the highway, their wheel flew out and killed someone driving on the opposite side of the traffic. :(

I know for sure Oil Can Henry doesn't just change the oil when they do the change. They are always doing something UNDER the car, what exactly I don't know... o_O
http://www.oilcanhenrys.com/services/famous_20point_fullservice_oil_change

+1 for the cv boot, but it may be something very simple like the inside of the wheel well is rubbing on the tire. there is a piece of plastic that kind of snaps into the wheel well, make sure that is secure and not flopping around. i have had that before...
or if it sounds more like a rattleing noise it may be something like a heat shield is loose, both of these issues are very easy to fix, so it may not be as bad as you think it is.
No not a rattling, definitely a humming weird helicopter-like sound, wom wom wom wom.
 
#22 ·
+1 for the cv boot, but it may be something very simple like the inside of the wheel well is rubbing on the tire. there is a piece of plastic that kind of snaps into the wheel well, make sure that is secure and not flopping around. i have had that before...
or if it sounds more like a rattleing noise it may be something like a heat shield is loose, both of these issues are very easy to fix, so it may not be as bad as you think it is.
 
#24 ·
Constant velocity joint is my guess as well. I suggest taking it to two different garages, have them test drive it with you in the vehicle with them. If it is a cv boot, they'll both tell you that right away. A good mechanic has an ear so to speak for these things.
 
#29 ·
Okay I will ask if they would like me to drive them around so they can hear the noise for themselves!

Maybe gear broken in the gear box, explains the sound when you go over 35mph, second, check your belts! maybe your ac pump or alternator came loose...?

Oil was low in car, no red light came on?... for a 2003 car almost impossible,(or if the red light does not work, but you should have seen this when you put the key in the contact!) same for low in cooling fluid, your temp gauge should have told u that the car was overheating!!

If you would have a more ticking sound, its possible that your valves are bent from overheating when you were low in oil and cooling Fluid.

bring ur car in for maintainance asap!! go to a cheap one , they will know!

Also ask for alignment of your wheels, the one they put the sensors on the car, comp will tell how much the wheels are off of the scale (cost between $20 and $100)
The lights do come up very short when you turn on the car, so yes the lights do work but I guess it wasn't low enough for the light to alert me.

Yea people in Colorado are crazy for Subaru's. When we move here, an incredibly amount of people insisted that we get a Subaru and were crazy for considering anything else. It started to get weird and cultish - people were to emotionally connected to their cars.

We bought a 2002 AWD Volvo station wagon for 7k and it's a trooper.

Eden, most auto repair shops will give a free estimate unless there are some extraordinary circumstances. Dealers really can be expensive so a local or alternative shop is probably a good idea.
Okay I will try to find someone other than the dealer as well. Last time I had to have my Air Conditioner repaired the 3rd party cost $150 more than getting it done at the Dealer's...

Coming from a subaru owner, I'd first check tires (tread, balance, alignment), then go to brakes (rotors, pads). Then check the wheel bearing. The mechanic only has to remove the hub and axle (very easily done...took mine off in about 15 minutes). The CV joints can be checked at that point as well.

You said your parent replaced the tires and rotated them at some point. Did they get all 4? These cars require buying all 4 at the same time. I know for my subaru I have to have less than 3/32" difference in tread from tire to tire otherwise it wears down on the 3 (yes three) differentials.

Also keep in mind that these cars are naturally louder.

And, as Kwangtzu said, there are a lot of forums out there strictly for your car. Look up "www.nasioc.com". That is a very common one that has a lot of good information on it.
I know they got all four rotated, but not sure about buying 4 NEW wheels... knowing them they could have just bought one or two new tires.

I had all four brakes plus some sort of belt changed late 2009 or early 2010 due to the BRAKE light lighting up when I was driving one very snowy day. But ever since they changed it, I always thought my wheels/brakes were a little..... off, to me at least. :icon_redf

Call Car Talk. They are great help lol
Umm lol o.o strange website
 
#25 ·
Maybe gear broken in the gear box, explains the sound when you go over 35mph, second, check your belts! maybe your ac pump or alternator came loose...?

Oil was low in car, no red light came on?... for a 2003 car almost impossible,(or if the red light does not work, but you should have seen this when you put the key in the contact!) same for low in cooling fluid, your temp gauge should have told u that the car was overheating!!

If you would have a more ticking sound, its possible that your valves are bent from overheating when you were low in oil and cooling Fluid.

bring ur car in for maintainance asap!! go to a cheap one , they will know!

Also ask for alignment of your wheels, the one they put the sensors on the car, comp will tell how much the wheels are off of the scale (cost between $20 and $100)
 
#27 ·
Coming from a subaru owner, I'd first check tires (tread, balance, alignment), then go to brakes (rotors, pads). Then check the wheel bearing. The mechanic only has to remove the hub and axle (very easily done...took mine off in about 15 minutes). The CV joints can be checked at that point as well.

You said your parent replaced the tires and rotated them at some point. Did they get all 4? These cars require buying all 4 at the same time. I know for my subaru I have to have less than 3/32" difference in tread from tire to tire otherwise it wears down on the 3 (yes three) differentials.

Also keep in mind that these cars are naturally louder.

And, as Kwangtzu said, there are a lot of forums out there strictly for your car. Look up "www.nasioc.com". That is a very common one that has a lot of good information on it.
 
#30 ·
As I have learned the hard way when a car is not functioning properly every mile you drive it turns into more cash for the repair. Something that might cost you $250 to fix could and will turn into a $500+ repair. My recommendation is to stop driving the car now.
 
#32 ·
IME worn out CV joints usually make a clicking sound. If it's wom,wom,wom, that sounds less like a CV joint to me. Have the mechanic check it anyway though. The boots rip very often, then you loose grease, or get dirt in the grease and the joint wears quickly then starts slipping and binding, making the clicking or popping noise.

To check a wheel bearing, the jack just has to get the tire to clear the ground. The sound you're describing now sounds more like tire wear/deformity, alignment, or bearing issue. Hard to say since I can't actually hear it, or feel the car shake. Pulling to one side when you stop is usually a hung caliper from my experience, but you usually can't hear or feel that unless you apply the brake. Like the previous poster said, a low tire can make the car pull to one side.

Call Car Talk, maybe we'll get to hear you on the radio.
 
#34 ·
Subaru are notorious for headgasket problem. In your case this isn't it but I would advise taking it to a Subaru specialize shop that isn't a Subaru dealership. This is to bring down the cost if any repair are made.

Or drive it to me and I"ll test drive and have it lifted up in the air and I'll check all the problems and let you know.

It's difficult to diagnose when it's not seen in person.

5 days ago, I've just did a headgasket on a Subaru.. wasn't a Legacy.. but it sucks to do repairs on one.


Star the car up, leave it in park, open your hood and if the noise is coming from the engine.. you have a rod knock.

If it's idles fine, and the noise is present when the car is moving only.. it has to do your transmission, brakes systems and AWD drivegears/shalf.
 
#35 ·
Yea I have stop driving it this week :D




Okay driving to California... I could like visit my relatives that live in CA!!! hmm... I hope it doesn't blow up on my way there lol O_O hahahaha

If I start the car up and do that, the problem is.... this problem only happens when I speed up to and over 35MPH.
 
#37 ·
Okay well I had Subaru check it out and it took them maybe 45 minutes to figure out it was the Front Right Wheel Bearing. I knew it had to do with the Front Right, just not sure what. He said if I had driven on it for a couple more miles it would have broken apart. Well anyways, it cost $410!! Wouch. At first my dad didn't want them to do it since he thought it was overpriced, so he sent me to some other places, but it would've cost over $550-600 at the other places.

But now it is nice and quiet!! :)
 
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