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My new 60P (work in progress)

6K views 37 replies 12 participants last post by  houseofcards 
#1 · (Edited)
Okay guys few weeks ago I bought a new tank gonna try to make this one as classy as possible. Starting out with an ADA 60P plan to have it carpeted with HC and have large to medium seiryu stones.


ADA 60P
ADA Aquasoil
ADA Aquasoil Powder Type
ADA Aquarium Mat
Amish "Microwave Cabinet"
Current Satellite Plus Pro
Hydor 200W Inline Heater
Cobalt EXT Canister Filter
Cal Aqua 17mm Lily Pipes INFLOW
Cal Aqua Pearl Drop Checker
GLA GRO-1 CO2 Regulator
2.5LB Co2 Tank x2
GLA Atomic Inline co2 Diffuser
Cal Aqua 17mm Lily Pipes OUTFLOW
 
#5 ·
Thanks bud! Not sure yet. I have a vast amount of RCS in another tank probably a chunk of them maybe some amano's also fish wise I was thinking Cardinal Tetras but still up in the air with that. Trying to find a pretty schooling fish that gets along with shrimp haha


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#12 ·
Not sure I get what you're saying to be honest haha but I'm glad you're saying something I've been trying to get everyone I know to give me their opinion on the rock layout. Maybe take it out completely?


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#17 ·
PROBLEMS okay guys been a few days since flood and BOOM ALGAE OUTBREAK. Okay so I have her set for 1bubble every two seconds. And light is on for 10hours a day. Sat plus pro is set for daylight setting at 100 for everything. HELP not exactly sure which thing I should tinker with first.










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#22 ·
Good looks. And if you want to squeeze the most out of your co2, try turning it on an hour before the lights come on and off an hour before they turn off. That seems to be the standard on the forums. Btw, the hc is looking great! Super thick now.
 
#23 ·
FYI, that algae is cyanobacteria, and increasing CO2 won't really affect it much - the only way I've ever had total success treating it is with erythromycin. Look for it on the label of aquarium antibiotics at your local fish store - not sure what names it's sold under. Just follow the instructions for dosing and it'll get taken care of after a couple days.

Some people have had success using topical application of H2O2, but that was never really a solution for my cases. YMMV.
 
#24 ·
STILL have problems only gotten worse I believe. I haven't dosed anything yet. I don't like the idea of using chemicals when the cycle hasn't even finished yet. Any more ideas? Or is this something that'll eventually work itself out when cycle is complete?



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#26 ·
Very tough to go from a dry start to 10 hours or so of good light. You really need to be on top of everything to pull that off. The plants kinda stall after the flood so you greatly reduce uptake, plus you have AS leaching.

I would have started with around 4 hours of light, use carbon, purigen and kept up with water changes to bridge the gap unto the plants really started going again. Iwagumi's have limited plant mass so you really have to keep the water column clean.
 
#27 ·
Tough break, man. If this is indeed cyanobacteria you want to try to remove as much of it by hand and then proceed to do a blackout for 3 days. You will need to cover the tank with a dark cloth during this for it to work as you want no light to get inside the tank. The other option is to dose the tank with Maracyn as it has the proper antibiotic to kill cyanobacteria, but I know you said you wanted to avoid chemicals. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
#28 ·
Yeah I know really sucks haha it's okay I'm sure it'll eventually come around guys. Maybe I should just go ahead a dose her up. Could someone give me a name brand of this product people use for Maracyn?! Thanks!


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