54g Corner Bow...long overdue update - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum

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post #31 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 08:49 PM
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^ That reminds me... I did see a saltwater tank recently that I liked, and the reason for it was that it was actually created to have some kind of "scape" involved, rather than what most people do, which is just dump a bunch of live rock into a tank and see where it lands. I wish I could remember where I saw it... I want to say I saw it here, actually. It was like a saltwater tank that was "aquascaped" using macroalgae, and it looked like a lagoon of some kind. It was way cool! I think if I ever did sw again, THAT is what I would do.

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post #32 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Update...
After soaking the peat moss in water for about 24 hours, I tested tested for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate...
Unfortunately ammonia was present at about 1 ppm after a 24 hour soak.
There were no nitrItes or nitrAtes...
so...
I was thinking about either getting peat that would work...or...
mixing laterite with the Schultz Aquatic Soil and then covering them with a layer of pool filter sand.
Any thoughts...?
Thanks Drew
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post #33 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 03:41 PM
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1ppm isn't that high, really, as long as the peat was in less than a gallon of water. A little ammonia is to be expected. If you go really lightly with the peat, and also mix in some tank mulm (if possible) you should probably be OK.

Just remember than any time you mix substrates they will end up mixed together over time, so be sure you like that look, and also that the larger pieces will always work their way to the surface (so the laterite will probably end up on top evntually, and the pool sand on the bottom).

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post #34 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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thanks Laura, (tired of typing the whole thing...LOL)
I have no exp. with the peat so...I didn't realize the peat would leech a little ammonia. I'd say I had a handful soaking in less than a half gallon.
I am still stuck on which light fixture to get...
You recommended the t5ho from Big Als but at 18 watts a light I would need at least 5 fixtures to to get to that "just under" 2 watts per gallon mark that I am shooting for...I do realize that the WPG rule is not always great to go by but it is the only real measure I have...

I would like to get some lower light ground cover like this
http://www.aquabotanicstore.com/product_p/pp03.htm
that way when the substrates mix...I wont have to worry about it.
thoughts...
Thanks again Drew
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post #35 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 04:36 PM
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I think those bulbs are 18watts each, 2x per fixture- so that works out a bit better than 5 fixtures... what I was originally thinking was perhaps using 2 fixtures for your tank; but I don't think the dimensions would work out quite right. Did you look at that MH fixture I linked? Pretty good price on that, and I think the light distribution would work well with a corner tank. Don't think you'll get much better than that unless you do a custom canopy with retrofit T5HOs...

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post #36 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Laura,
the more I think about it the MH fixture you linked or the one from fostersmith
seem to be the best and I love the idea...I'm actually gonna sell some of my aquarium equipment and save about 100 a month to get a CO2 system in the next 3 months... I do have a possible heat issue though...How hot do MH fixtures get?

I also think a custom canopy with retrofit t5ho's would cost as much as just getting the MH fixture.
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post #37 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 05:31 PM
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LOL the custom canopy would probably be more... for some reason retrofit kits are usually more expensive than fixtures. I've no clue why since you've got to do all the assembly labor yourself...

One of the good things about a MH pendant is that most of that heat won't transfer directly into the tank but dissipate into the room. You can play around with the height of the light over the water till you find the right balance.

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post #38 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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The heat in the room is what I'm actually worried about...it is an office tank and patients will be sweating in one room and freezing in the other...LOL
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post #39 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 07:00 PM
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150w is really not all that much heat. Plus, because you'd be suspending the lamp, you could feasibly use it simultaneously as room lighting, and turn off some lights that you might normally have on. I'm going to agree with Laura here, though, and say that a pendant is the most efficient lighting for the footprint of a corner tank.
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post #40 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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FINE!!!!!...I'm gonna get the MH pendant, either one of these...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...4&pcatid=17624

or

http://www.fishneedit.com/150w-metal...ndant-lig.html

I actually like the 2nd light that Laura linked to. I comes with the 6700k bulb.
Correct me if I'm wrong but getting a MH fixture is going to force me to get a CO2 system? Which I guess is not a bad thing, it just means that I'm gonna have to wait that much longer to set it up.

I have a question about the peat...since it leaches ammonia into the aquarium...will it always do that, or will it stop at some point?
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post #41 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 08:50 PM
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if you can get a 100 watt bulb you'll be fine with out co2, but if you go with the 150 that you linked to, then you will have to get some sort of co2.
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post #42 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Bored,
I've seen 70 watt bulbs and 150's but no 100's got any links?
Thanks
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post #43 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 11:02 PM
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I don't think the wattage will make the difference you think it will; you can always just raise or lower the light above the fixture as well as play with your photoperiod if you have algae issues. I think you should be able to get away without CO2 as long as you stuff your tank from the getgo with fast-growing nutrient-hog stems.

Floating plants can be your friend and help with light control, as well.

Once your tank cycles you shouldn't have ammonia issues. The peat actually should help your tank cycle, since you need an ammonia source in the beginning before you add fish. Not to mention in such a larger volume of water you'll end up with significantly less than 1ppm.

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post #44 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-19-2008, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Here is my situation...
If I bought the MH fixture now I'd also want to purchase a good quality CO2 system as well and the money is just not in the budget...yet. If I could get a low light setup going and keep it growing and healthy. I would be looking to add both a MH and a CO2 system around Christmas.
I really feel as though jumping to that level could lead to disaster, esp. with my track record with live plants...so, back to square one...I'm gonna pick either a CF or T5HO fixture and try to keep anubias, narrow leaf chain swords, java ferns, crypts etc. this would allow me to start the tank in the next few weeks...
I'm going to continue to look for lights...more than likely a total of 4 bulbs totaling around or just under 100watts to keep the light on the lower end of things...
From what I've seen and read here it seems as though I should be looking for a 6700k bulb...unless I want to swap bulbs.
I appreciate you folks taking time to comment and help me...
Drew
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post #45 of 254 (permalink) Old 07-19-2008, 03:28 PM
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if you want to get co2 eventually.. then get the high watt bulb and add some sort of cheap diy co2 until you find the budget to get the pressurized system.
and you can also do what laura said until you get the right balance of things.
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