Ruxl's 65 gallon hi-tech - The Planted Tank Forum

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Ruxl's 65 gallon hi-tech

We're in the final stages of my family's 65 gallon community tank, and wanted to share our progress with everyone.

Hardware
65g aquarium (36x18x24)
Custom stand
20 long sump/refugium
Finnex 36" Ray2
Pressurized CO2
Eco-Complete substrate (~80lbs)

Fauna
Neon Tetra (coming from existing 29g)
Bloodfin Tetra (coming from existing 29g)
Red Eye Tetra (coming from existing 29g)
Tiger Barbs (most likely, still not 100% certain)
Still need to resolve shrimp/snail/algae eater solution

Flora
Hemianthus Callitrichoides (Planted DSM 12/8)
Cryptocoryne Parva (Planted DSM 12/8)
Bacopa Monnieri (ordered 1/29)
Rotala Indica (ordered 1/29)
Ludwigia Repens (ordered 1/29)
Ludwigia Ovalis (ordered 1/29)
Hydrotriche (need to source yet)
Rotala thin "green" (need to source yet)

Fertilizing with EI: 1/2tsp KNO3, 1/8 trace, K2SO4 and KH2PO4 bi-daily with 50% WC weekly.

Pictures as we progressed:
Stand framed up and ready for final steps. Stand is poplar, with 3/4" birch ply for sides/bottom and 1/4" birch ply for back and door skins.


Here it is assembled, middle brace has yet to be stained/painted. We used a driftwood product to gray the wood, and then dry-brushed it white, followed by liming wax once all was dry.


Adding baffles to the 20L:


12/8, HC planted:




Regulator build:
Picked up a VTS450A for ~$50 after shipping from the bay. Fabco NV55, Burkert 6011, generic bubble counter/etc. The low side gauge wasn't reading 0, but upon pressurizing it appears fine. Checked with a few local welding shops, if it turns out its no good a rebuild is ~$50, so for at most $100 it seems like its still a solid deal.


Assembly complete, ready for flooding:


After flooding I noticed the overflow couldn't drain fast enough to keep up with the mag 9.5 pump. So a quick last minute run to Home Depot & Lowes was in order. Ended up T'ing off the return line to recirculate excess water back into the drain section of the pump.

Had a *ton* of bubbles with the CO2 feeding directly into the pump, so spent the next day building a ~24" rex griggs reactor. It has helped, but still a good bit of bubbles. Not sure on what exactly to do further; this was a large as I could fit through the cabinet doors.

I'm getting a 1.2 drop in PH with the CO2 running, but it is running well beyond a rate I could count. My guess is somewhere around 20bps. I sealed the sump with cling wrap and noticed no difference after a day, so pulled most of it off. With the sump unwrapped the PH before the CO2 reactor is as close as I can tell to the PH after. Further, my cheapo Fluval drop checker sits at a constant teal, but I'm assuming that is an issue with the drop checker and not CO2.

Last edited by Ruxl; 01-30-2014 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Correcting typos.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
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8 days after flooding, and the HC is still growing strong. Not seeing any melt and there is quite a bit of continued growth.

Crypts are also doing well, for the first time we're seeing some additional growth on them as well.

A lot of diatoms (i'm assuming from the rock?)

I did notice some green algae growing on the rock and a small amount on the HC close to the rock.

Am I getting enough light, or too much fertilization for the limited plants currently?

Pictures:
Green algae




Growth over the last week:
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 03:02 PM
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Good start and nice rocks!!

Sent from my Blackberry Playbook using Tapatalk2

My 40 Gallon Planted Tank - http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...898&highlight=

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 03:04 PM
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Your silicone job on your sump walls is impeccable. I am impressed. By first silicone job looks awful, but it works. I appears you are implementing a refugium in your sump? What design did you use for your overflow? Did you do a beananimal? Durko? etc.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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My crappy pictures are making the silicone job look better than it is... I would certain want better for a tank that is visible, but since its just the sump...

Its a durso standpipe; the tank is a "reef-ready" tank that was pre-drilled. If I had it to do again, I'd want a larger overflow & a bean animal, as it is in our living area and is a bit louder than I would personally prefer.

Refugium is a roughly 3gal section before the return. We figure we can put excess plants/clippings here, try other types of plants before they go into the display tank, etc. Originally this was going to house fancy goldfish, so I wanted a safe place to have plants without getting grazed by the goldfish.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 03:24 PM
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That stand is gorgeous. Very nice all around.

Some comments:

1. You have a nice area for a refugium but the downside to this design is that you won't have much extra water capability. This means you need to be extra cautious of controlling evaporation or else you'll have to top off the tank quite frequently. I'd also recommend that you leave enough empty space in the sump for backflow. Even if you have check valves they shouldn't be trusted 100%.

2. For CO2 bubbles you may try a Cerges reactor. I think it works better than Rex Griggs for high flow systems.

3. I don't believe sealing a sump is necessary for co2 as long as there isn't excessive splashing. I know some disagree but I experimented and had similar findings to you.

Any pics of
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the kind words!

I've noticed that evaporation is a PITA. I have a glass cover, but it collects condensation pretty quickly. I have to top off with ~2 cups of water daily if I leave the lid off, else I get a lot of bubbles from the weir heading into the return section of the sump. I have also tested (probably 20 times, literally) backflow capabilities, and as it is currently set with no power I have 2"+ of space left in the sump before any overflow worries.

I've been eyeballing using a cerges reactor, but am hesitating at it. While we aren't talking a lot of money, $20 here and there over time has sure added up! I've also noticed many of the casings most people are using are 1/2" input/output, and am uncertain what it will do to the flow. I'd obviously like to keep as high a water turnover as possible.

In the return section I have significant splashing, but I have left that section covered. I'm not sure how well it does for off-gasing, but it keeps everything else in that area much more dry, so it'll stay for now.

I also have a large sheet of black acrylic that I've been toying with cutting to use as a sump lid for the non-refugium portions, but cutting the passthroughs for the plumbing is a bit daunting.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 05:39 PM
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So is the beananimal so popular because it is quiet? I had 1 in. holes drilled in my tank, one for intake and one for output. I simply put a PVC cap on my intake plumbing with three 1/8 inch holes drilled through the top and it is very quiet.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 06:08 PM
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Nice start but...I'm not sure your parva is actually parva....it might be C. x willisi. I thought I had parva too until someone told me otherwise. Still functionally the same plant more or less.

My 75 gallon High Tech Tank:http://tinyurl.com/n7zp47m
My 10 gallon High Tech Tank:http://tinyurl.com/qyf7s5o
My 5.5 gallon nano College Dorm Tank:http://tinyurl.com/p54uupj
Mom's Spec V:http://tinyurl.com/qjt3rw2
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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To me, the ability for it to be silent (not quiet, but full-siphon silent), handle significant flow, and have reduntant safety is why I would prefer beananimal.

Currently there is a lot of gurgling, plus the portion of my sump that the overflow drains into has a ton of turbulance/bubbles, which also adds noise.

This tank is drilled 1.5" for drain, 3/4" for return.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridHerp View Post
Nice start but...I'm not sure your parva is actually parva....it might be C. x willisi. I thought I had parva too until someone told me otherwise. Still functionally the same plant more or less.
I'm not sure either, truth be told... my wife picked it up on a whim, and it was labeled "various crypt."
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 06:10 PM
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True parva is hard to come by so if assume x willisi, especially due to that height

My 75 gallon High Tech Tank:http://tinyurl.com/n7zp47m
My 10 gallon High Tech Tank:http://tinyurl.com/qyf7s5o
My 5.5 gallon nano College Dorm Tank:http://tinyurl.com/p54uupj
Mom's Spec V:http://tinyurl.com/qjt3rw2
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 06:15 PM
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can we see your overflow area? do you only have 2 holes drilled?
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scapegoat View Post
can we see your overflow area? do you only have 2 holes drilled?
I'll take one tonight and post it -- 2 holes, 1 @ 1.5" and 1@ .75". The tank came pre-drilled ("reef ready") and is tempered.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Overflow:


Sump/Reactor/etc.:




With no lid, I came home to notice pearling for the first time!


Really need to get a decent camera, phone just isn't cutting it.

I also noticed after a little bit more than a week the bubble counter is already just about out of water. I'm thinking due to the high flow rate its getting pushed up the line. I used teflon tape on the threading of the bubble counter, so I'm doubtful its leaking out, nor do I see any signs of it leaking.
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