*UPDATE* 2/16 (5th Month) ADA Mini-M Iwagumi/ Dwarf Baby Tears Tank - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 04:32 PM
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Looks amazing!

I will look into the Planted+ (its cheaper) for my ADA 60P. Thanks!
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post #32 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 11:17 PM
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Glad you won the fight with the bga.

Those shrmips looks nice. Pretty as a picture!

Tell me, how long do you have your lights running?
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post #33 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Hi dantrasy! With your tips awhile ago, my baby tears been growing very healthy. I bought a canister filter and just received my glass pipes and inline co2 diffuser. I just decreased my lighting from 8 hours to 6 hours. I'm fighting hair algea atm and they keep growing and growing and I can't seem to get rid of them. I vac my gravel, do 2-3 water changes every week, cut down my dry ferts dosing, and now I just cut the time of my light. Any suggestions?
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post #34 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 08:33 AM
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hiya. the more I read on this forum the more I realize I'm still very new to this hobby. that bba thread that's going atm has my head in a spin.

anyway, one thing I have picked up is that reducing fertz to combat algae isn't a good idea. you're denying the plants the nutrients they need, growth slows and the algae gets to feed and multiplies more. so it's more than likely going to have the opposite effect than you desire.

your other methods (lowering photo time, more wc'es) should help combat the hair algae. manual removal helps too of course. if it's really bad you might consider a 48hr blackout. the times i've had hair algae it went away in a few weeks and didn't come back.

you shouldn't have to vac the gravel, anyway, don't you have aqua soil?

you don't have much plant mass in there, perhaps add some frog bit floaters or just stems floating seems to work. I did this for the first 2 months in my 1ft that has very little plant mass. 1 drop of excel every other day wouldn't hurt either imo (i reckon others might disagree). i put 1 drop of glut into my nano tanks every day or two, i still find the occasional tuf of algae (bba in my case), but it grows grey/white in colour and appears half dead and is pretty easy to pull off with pincettes.
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post #35 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Charlieeex3 View Post
Hi dantrasy! With your tips awhile ago, my baby tears been growing very healthy. I bought a canister filter and just received my glass pipes and inline co2 diffuser. I just decreased my lighting from 8 hours to 6 hours. I'm fighting hair algea atm and they keep growing and growing and I can't seem to get rid of them. I vac my gravel, do 2-3 water changes every week, cut down my dry ferts dosing, and now I just cut the time of my light. Any suggestions?
What is your photoperiod and CO2 cycle? A lot of times in high light + CO2 tanks, the owners aren't managing their CO2 well.

Also, I concur that reducing ferts isn't the best strategy. I will say, however, that it sometimes works (through an indirect fashion).

The *best* way to figure out how to control the hair algae is to understand what parameter is out of balance (e.g. too much light, too much fert, not enough CO2, not enough flow, etc.). Unfortunately, I think that process is mostly trial and error =(

I usually only run into hair algae problems when my CO2 is too low, my CO2 is not in sync with my lights (should turn on before or at same time as lights and turn off when lights turn off), my flow is too low (like waterlogged areas of overgrowth), or my tank is filthy (overfeeding, not cleaning away plant detritis, etc.). Do any of these seem possible or likely to you?

Also, how often are you fertilizing? and with what?

60g planted, DoAqua 90P Nature Style, DoAqua 60P Iwagumi, ADA Mini-L,
ADA 30C Shrimp, DoAqua MiniS Iwagumi/Nature, 40L Breeder, 20g Rimless for Breeding
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post #36 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 06:21 PM
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Very nice man I wish my hc looked like that. I want to do co2 but isn't it bad for shrimp?
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post #37 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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I'm using the pps-pro ferts from greenleafaquariums. I dosed double the amount of ferts that the instructions stated.... Which was a big mistake. Instead of 10 drops of macro and micro, I did 20. After I noticed my mistake, I only dose 10 drops now and a lot of water changes. I also manually hang pick the hair algea off but they grow so fast over night I would have to hand pick them again the next day.

As for co2, the co2 turns on 2 hours before the lights do and turns off 15 mins before the light do. At about 1.5-2 bps. My light is on for only 6 hours now. Is that too low?

Co2 isn't bad for shrimps, too much co2 is. But if you want to breed shrimps, I recommend no co2 in the tank. I started off with 15 crs about 2 months ago and I still have 15 crs lol my tank is also only 5.5 gallons so it's harder to breed shrimps as well. A tank of 20 gallons should do it to keep the water more stable.
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post #38 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 12:07 AM
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I'm not sure about the specs for the pps-pro ferst from greenleafaquariums. From my experience (and this is purely from experience, not from doing tons of reviews on dosing and such) you use less ferts if you have less plantmass. In theory, you want to match your fertilization amount with how much plantmass you have so that you give just enough ferts for the plants to thrive but not too much so that there is excess for algae to thrive. Do you think you might be based on how many plants you have?

Also, after you've done all these changes have you noticed the hair algae slowing down? If so, I think you did something right. Manually remove as much as you can and then slowly start adjusting some of your parameters back to a standard level.

It's good that the CO2 is in line with the lights. Try bring up the light time by an hour every 2wks and monitor how the algae is doing. Keep the CO2 levels in the same pattern, but very seriously monitor your tank at the 6.5hr, 7hr, 7.5hr, etc. marks. You want to make sure that your CO2 levels aren't reaching lethal levels for the shrimp. It seems like at your current BPS, it doesn't cross the lethal threshold at 6hrs, but that doesn't mean it wont cross it at 7 or 8hrs. Get what I'm saying? (This is one of the CO2 corollaries you can get from Tom Barr's notes about CO2).

Amount of light you want put regularly into the tank will also depend on how much plant mass you have. Can you show us a recent pic?

60g planted, DoAqua 90P Nature Style, DoAqua 60P Iwagumi, ADA Mini-L,
ADA 30C Shrimp, DoAqua MiniS Iwagumi/Nature, 40L Breeder, 20g Rimless for Breeding
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post #39 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 12:28 AM
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Tank looks awesome. Love the stones
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post #40 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure if this is considered a lot of plant mass or not. I just have dwarf baby tears covering the gravel. You can see the hair algea on the middle rock and the rock on the right.
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post #41 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 07:56 AM
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I'd probably consider that low biomass. Is any of the hair algae growing on the HC? If not, you're in decent shape. It might be the only place the hair algae is able to grow (which is better sign than out of control growth)

Also, is the light you're using the one below?
Amazon.com: Finnex FugeRay Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights, 12-Inch: Pet Supplies Amazon.com: Finnex FugeRay Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights, 12-Inch: Pet Supplies

Let me know your thoughts to my other questions in my earlier post.

60g planted, DoAqua 90P Nature Style, DoAqua 60P Iwagumi, ADA Mini-L,
ADA 30C Shrimp, DoAqua MiniS Iwagumi/Nature, 40L Breeder, 20g Rimless for Breeding
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post #42 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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I have the 16" finnex plant+. The hair algae is mostly growing on the rocks. It's hard to say if the hair algae growth is decreasing because when I manually remove it, more just keeps growing back the next morning.
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post #43 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 10:10 AM
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At least we know the growth is not stunted. Try cutting out phosphate in your dry fert dosing and raise the CO2 slightly. If you don't want to completely cut it out, cut it down to 1/2 or 1/4 of what you're doing right now.

This sometimes works for me and for some people on the forums, but not always.

60g planted, DoAqua 90P Nature Style, DoAqua 60P Iwagumi, ADA Mini-L,
ADA 30C Shrimp, DoAqua MiniS Iwagumi/Nature, 40L Breeder, 20g Rimless for Breeding
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post #44 of 53 (permalink) Old 01-16-2014, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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This would be the 4th month update!
Changes since last month:
1. Got rid of HOB filter and replaced it with canister filter (eheim 2213). For those who are on the fence of getting a canister filter or not, get it! I never knew my water could be so crystal clear!
2. Replaced the ugly eheim pipes with VIV glass pipes.
3. Bought an inline CO2 diffuser.
4. Started using dry ferts! I noticed the HC look more neon green.
Quick question. How come some plants Iv seen on the Internet are dark green and some that look like mine? Is it because of how the light shines on it?
5. Fighting hair algea and little bit of bba. My fault since I dose double the amount of ferts needed. So far the growth of the algea slowed down but haven't got rid of it.
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Last edited by Charlieeex3; 01-16-2014 at 09:24 AM. Reason: Update
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post #45 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-09-2014, 04:24 AM
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