125/50 - update Jan 2015 (pics & video) - Page 10 - The Planted Tank Forum

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post #136 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 10:13 PM
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Using a wood block with a hole drilled the same size as your bulk head hold works wonders for a jig. I bought one of those cheap suction cup chinese "hole guides" and the block of wood with a hole in it works way better. Starting the hole off at an angle will keep your drill from bouncing around, but that is pretty much negated when you use the block guide idea.
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post #137 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-29-2013, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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But then I couldn't do this...









Final result




That's right, party people, we are DONE drilling the tank! My buddy and his wife were over this weekend, I showed him the progress so far. He was far too curious about the whole 'tank/glass drilling' thing, so volunteered/helped solve the drilling issue.

Glad I had his help - cast iron is heavy!

Anyways...now I get Spa-Flex, wait for adhesive to arrive, and in the mean time finish up sumpy.

Sump to-do:
  1. Build drip tray
  2. Drill lids
  3. Cut PVC for pump to bulkheads
  4. Get more pot scrubbies
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post #138 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-29-2013, 04:10 AM
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post #139 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-29-2013, 01:56 PM
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How many points for hitting the bucket?
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post #140 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-29-2013, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hahaha, the bucket was intended as a failsafe for the duct tape, but ended up being a nice place to drain the coolant. The wet paper towels made a nice 'TUMP' noise when tossed into the bucket from six feet up.

Surprisingly, as ghetto and 'Darwin award-winning' as this looks to be...since the drill press has very little mechanical vibration while running it was reasonably stable.

Not so stable that'd I'd leave it up there longer than necessary...haha, but did the job.
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post #141 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-29-2013, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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One item I'm not certain about is the return plumbing. My initial plan was to have the return plumbing run up the opposite side from the drains...but after building the stand, that'll be difficult/awkward to do.

I think this is how I'll run it instead:
  1. Pumps
  2. Solid 3/4" PVC (not glued)
  3. Bulkhead in glass lid
  4. 90-degree elbow
  5. Flex line or solid
  6. This runs back out near the drains, up past the overflow, then allll the way down to the other end of the tank.

Probably going to do solid PVC to keep costs down, reliability up.
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post #142 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-29-2013, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, and brainwave about the 20G shrimparium...I already have a Rena XP1 - will just use that instead of plumbing the 20G into the sump. No costs incurred this way! Plus, this tank can act as a QT! Win-win.

Also, definately doing solid 3/4" returns...50% the cost per-foot compared to vinyl.
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post #143 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Checked the sump last night, panels are SOLID. So there you go...even if you have 3/16" gap on either side of the panel, enough silicone will still get the job done!

Sanded down the edges of the tank holes.


And drilled for the siphon activator



I need to pick up the return plumbing bits this week (3x 10', connectors), and get a threaded adapter for the emergency bulkhead. If they have clear primer...will probably splurge on that, too. Save me painting stuff black.
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post #144 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Dang, check this sump out:

It is a reef tank, but still...awesome plumbing job.
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post #145 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 12:16 PM
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Oh my, that sump is gorgeous....

I've never regretted over engineering a system, but often regretted under engineering one.

Aquatic Gardeners Association
Current 60g build
300g Dutch (torn down)
60g Dutch (torn down)
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post #146 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 12:57 PM
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^ One of my builds is very closes to that with some tweaks, only in glass. Works great
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post #147 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 01:05 PM
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Nice job this weekend!
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post #148 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Tx, AHP. Very exciting...depending on how this week goes, could have plumbing tests this weekend!

I've seen the design before, but almost all sump designs seem to revolve around using filter socks. Not a huge deal, but I found they required much more attention due to clogs. I get the water polishing thing, just found it to require a lot more effort.
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post #149 of 416 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Why is it that every time I've been to Lowe's for PVC, they are out of 3/4" 90-degree elbows? Haha, it's kinda funny. Picked up the return stuff...I have had an idea...

That being, send ONE return line instead of two. I had to get a tee, so the more powerful pump will go straight through, the less powerful pump will have to deal with a 90-degree tee. I know, a y-adapter is best, but we take what we can get. This part of the plumbing will be in-sump and not glued, so easy enough to change in future.

When it enters the tank, the flow will be distributed via a spraybar or something.

Reason for the change...I've been considering moving to one pump (one better pump) in future, and I would like to limit how much plumbing I have to run across the top of the tank.

Anyways...going to try and finish the sump tonight.
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post #150 of 416 (permalink) Old 10-01-2013, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Hoh boy. Sump is 95% done!


What's left?
  • Cut/fit the center drip tray stand (pvc)
  • Drill sump lid for bulkhead
  • Cut/fit lid for drains
  • Buy more pot scrubbies

Do those plexi stand bits/drip trays look familiar? Recycled from old sumpy!



Egg crate recycled from bottom of old display tank
This will keep the pot scrubbies in their place, since they be floaters. 10.5" tall. I'll probably do something like...tie a bunch of them into 'pillars' with fishing line. Those will sit along the edge of this screen, hopefully preventing any floaters from getting by.




This is what we'll do to keep to a single return pipe
Whoa, HDR freaked out with the lighting.

You get the idea about using the tee. I know it's not great for flow, but it'll do for now. None of the joints inside the sump will get glue - for this simple reason: No way to easily (cheaply) change over to a proper Y-adapter and sump access would become a nightmare.

Note about flow: These two pumps will pretty much be maxing out the flow of 3/4" pvc. With all the bends and runs, the two should get max flow and not much more anyways.

In future we'd upgrade the pump and all return plumbing to 1".



And out the stand, up over the tank
Bottom three pieces get us outside the stand and going vertical, top two pieces get us past the external overflow box and onto the long horizontal run to tank entry point.



An idea of what I'm mumbling about



Use a bulkhead at tank entry point?


Or just cut a hole to fit this?
(3/4 to 1" bushing -> 1" street elbow -> 1" 90-degree elbow)


Pew pew pew!



Sump pumps!



Overflow plumbing almost there
That's the theory, anyways. I'll be teflon-taping the threaded joints to ensure no siphon issues, but no glue otherwise (well, the full water test will tell the tale). Depending on how overflow water levels do, I may be able to do away with the emergency pipe extension (i.e. the threaded adapter will do the trick).




Other notes
  • The adhesive shipped, should be here tomorrow. This means tomorrow night is overflow box assembly!
  • Will wait until everything is together before I buy the Spa-Flex.
  • Still have to create an entry point into the stand for plumbing. That'll wait.

Edit: Just realized something...so far, the sump has cost me ZERO dollars!! All recycled/leftover bits! Cool! Oh wait...a glass cutter. $6.
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