46 gallon bow front Dutchy with a rock high tech/high light - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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post #32 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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quick update on water
source water has a gh of 145, kh 105 and a ph of 8.5

aquarium water as of today has ph of 6.5, ammonia .5, nitrite .25 and nitrate 5.o
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post #33 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 04:01 AM Thread Starter
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Bought 20 gallons of RO water for $5.00. It's a culligan industrial machine... It had a title kiosk looking thing,,, but behind the wall connected by hose was a HUGE machine... Sediment, carbon, RO then UV... even if it's from Walmart,, it is sure to be good with a setup like that. I'll let my filter run all night to feed off the ammonia, then change the water prior to introducing the rams.... Ph should be fine for them,, the ammonia can be locked,,, my only issue is hardness.....

I have a question though,,,, how do y'all handle kh... In koi ponding I was taught a pressure canister filter can't function with kh lower than 100... Do y'all follow the same thought in planted aquariums? Also what about adding Epsom salt and calcium chloride for the plants?

Last edited by Loco4Tanks; 07-19-2013 at 06:11 AM. Reason: retardation
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post #34 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 05:03 AM
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There is no need to treat and buffer freshwater. All you are doing is asking for trouble by doing that. I live in SD which has liquid rock from the tap and I have had 0 issues with my fish. Unless you are trying to breed specialty shrimp, the Austin tap is fine. I know because I lived there for 6 years. Rams were the worst choice in fish to introduce to a brand new tank that's not fully cycled though as they can be kinda sensitive depending where they came from.
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post #35 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
There is no need to treat and buffer freshwater. All you are doing is asking for trouble by doing that. I live in SD which has liquid rock from the tap and I have had 0 issues with my fish. Unless you are trying to breed specialty shrimp, the Austin tap is fine. I know because I lived there for 6 years. Rams were the worst choice in fish to introduce to a brand new tank that's not fully cycled though as they can be kinda sensitive depending where they came from.
the filter media in the new filter came out of another filter and is over a year old... that tank holds large goldfish , and we all know how messy they are.. the media is well established.. but I have plenty of amquel, prime and "safe" on hand.. plus a lot of other odds and ends, in case I run into problems

fyi... Im running a fluval fx6 half filled with established cermedia and half filled with new cermedia and also a fluval 206 filled with established cermedia.. that's a sh´t ton of surface area for a 46 gallon tank. I have less surface area in an overstocked 110 gallon mbuna tank,, and never have issues with it

Last edited by Loco4Tanks; 07-19-2013 at 06:19 AM. Reason: retardation
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post #36 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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need to post current pic,, but ordered even more plants
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2 of : Baby Tears (Dwarf) grown on (plantable) MAT (3"x5")

1 of : Cabomba Furcata

3 of : Rotala Magenta (Rotala macrandra v. 'narrow leaf')

Last edited by Loco4Tanks; 07-20-2013 at 08:20 PM. Reason: Retarded
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post #37 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Late night ammonia check... .25, bio definitely doing it's thing.. Zero nitrite... Ph 6.5.. Didn't check anything else.
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post #38 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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post #39 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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by this time next week you won't recognize this tank as it is now,,,, I've been ordering enough plants for five aquariums!!!! I dont even know what all I've ordered..., already thinking I may buy a T5 ballast for the back row,,, these plants are going to be thick... I don't want them shading each other to death...

on a side note,, my new salifert profi ammonia test shows zero ammonia in all my tanks and pond,,, including the new planted

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post #40 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
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ok, , , it was only $50. I bought the odyssea dual pro 36" T5 high output light. 72watts.. comes with two free bulbs, a 10,000k and a "true actinic." The 10000k will help the plants and the actinic will help show off my fish.
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post #41 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
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any chance I can successfully keep a razorback musk turtle in my dutch planted...fyi,Im getting a juvenile, they're slow growers, max out at 5" and don't eat plants.
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post #42 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-25-2013, 04:14 AM Thread Starter
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post #43 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-25-2013, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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The more plants I add the more I know I need to add to get the look I want. I'm new to this,, it's hard to know what to do next. I need more midground and foreground... I have a couple mats of baby tears on the way... Want something that gets no more that 3" tall to sit in a row behind my baby tears to give it definition and organization...something with a very different texture than the baby tears to give it a distinct line of separation. Open for suggestions... Something bushy to give a different texture to the stem plants dominating my scape.
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post #44 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-25-2013, 05:20 AM
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Let your Blyxa grow out more? Or dwarf sag. Both would work as foreground to background transition.

Crypts would be another good choice.

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post #45 of 56 (permalink) Old 07-25-2013, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVT View Post
Let your Blyxa grow out more? Or dwarf sag. Both would work as foreground to background transition.

Crypts would be another good choice.

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What about:
Baby Tears (Dwarf) grown on Lava Rock
Cabomba Furcat(kept trimmed low)
Flame Moss on Mat 2.5"x4.5" and
Taiwan Moss on Mat 2.5"x4.5"
Just ordered these
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