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20 gallon long low tech low light *insert clever name here*

5K views 36 replies 8 participants last post by  iadubber 
#1 · (Edited)
Well after starting up a 10g a few weeks ago I just don't like it. I've learned a lot here the last month about starting right and scaping. I'm going to take my time getting this one going and eventually transfer all my plants from my 10 to this.

Tank-standard 20 gallon long back black painted
Lighting-2 13 watt cfls in clamp lights on PVC rack.
Substrate-Rinsed mgopm with clay balls capped with black diamond blasting sand
Filter-One ac20, One ac30 eventually upgrade to an Eheim 2215.

I'm putting this tank on an old bar in our basement I removed the sink from and put a new top on.

Val
Dhg
Crypts

Stock: unknown

FTS: 2012/11/14

IMG_7033 by iadubber, on Flickr
 
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#3 ·
Not sure I agree on that, the tank is only 12" deep, add substrate and we are 10". I did change my mind and might go to 3 13w 6500k cfls in clamp housings.


Here's where it's home will be in my basement. I have to finish out the counter this weekend. I'll probably hang a curtain or something over the hole where the fridge was. I'm going to keep the battery backup, power strips, and timers in there.



I picked up some pvc to make a light stand, clamp lights, blasting sand, and some other goodies.

The MGOPM is on it's second soak today. I'm going to go look for some rocks this weekend.

Now I'm thinking about getting an Eheim canister.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Painted the counter black. I'm looking for some black fabric to wrap the whole cabinet in.

I still need to paint the PVC light rig black.

Found a few rocks at my local landscape company. Not as unique as I was wanting, but I think it'll work. They were boiled and passed the vinegar test.

Trying to convince the wife into a 2215 canister instead of dual AC20s. It's not going well, so I might just have to stick with the AC20s for now.

Here's the layout I want for the hardscape.

IMG_7026 by iadubber, on Flickr

I'm really surprised at how much dirt was lost in the rinsing process of a full bag of MGOPM. I hope I have enough to accomplish what I want for substrate shaping. I want to go higher in the back corners and slope them down. Maybe have Crypt Wendtii in the front right and DHG in the front left.

I decided against ferns and anubias in this tank. I just don't like them in my 10. I'd rather have all rooting plants for a cleaner look.
 
#6 ·
I have a question on soil depth. It's hard for me to explain how I want the substrate to look. I want it higher in the back corners coming down to a slope in the middle.

Am I going to be ok having maybe a 1.50-2" dirt in the back corners coming down into maybe .5" in the middle? Then topped with sand. Will this cause any problems inside the deeper parts of the soil?
 
#7 ·
Soil depth want higher in the back corners coming down to a slope in the middle. Maybe a 1.50-2" dirt in the back corners coming down into maybe .5" in the middle? Then topped with sand. Will this cause any problems inside the deeper parts of the soil?
Should have no problems for the el natural way the substrate is about 3in high.

I found putting reptile coconut bark under my dirt kept it from getting compressed by the sand, which would have lead to anaerobic condition.
 
#11 ·
Why did you rinse the mgops ? Dry sifting to remove the wood chunks should have sufficed. You probably washed all the nutrients away...
I was trying to avoid brown water which I got in my 10 gallon when I set it up. Going on two months on that tank and I still am having tannin issues. I doubt most nutrients were washed away. I put the dirt in a tub filled with water, skimmed off all the floaters, filled up again skimmed off, and now it's drying.
 
#17 ·
I didn't rinse my sand or dirt last time.

I picked up some crypt wendtii and microsword from PetSmart today in thoughts I'd start my dry start tonight. Now I keep reading on how many problems people have had with dry starts in controlling humidity etc. I had plans to move my DHG, crypt wendtii foreground, and do the microsword midground all dry started.

Is dry starting as easy as getting my substrate in which is already damp, cap it, plant my plants, and get some more water in the substrate? Put some saran wrap over most of the top to keep as much humidity in. Then spray the plants as it starts to dry up?? I've read that some sword dies after flooding. All confused, and now I have $16 in plants to figure out what's going on. thanks!
 
#18 · (Edited)
I didn't rinse my sand or dirt last time.

I had plans to move my DHG, crypt wendtii foreground, and do the microsword midground all dry started. All confused, and now I have $16 in plants to figure out what's going on. thanks!
Rinse the sand at least 1x

I don't have the patience to do a dry start. I just know that those plants need to go in dirt as soon as possible. I would get a moisture meter to check the moisture. They are cheap. If you can't find 1 at a hardware store try Ebay.
 
#19 ·
I may just do a normal start and move my AC20 from my 10gallon to this tank. I picked up an AC30 to add to this tank as well. I'm just short one heater and I planned to retire the 10gallon anyways so i'll probably take the heater from that for now.
 
#20 ·
I don't bother with heaters anymore. For I found with my 29g the water stays near the temp of the room. Haven't checked my 20G. The plecos, only inhabitants, seem to be doing okay without a heater. My 10g needed a heater for there was great fluctuation in the temp of the water.
 
#22 ·
Filled the tank tonight. I got the crypt wendtii from my other tank in the front right, microsword in the middle, trying to revive my DHG on the front left. Back corners are jungle val. The java fern and anubias aren't going to stay in the tank, if the fern recovers I'll probably ROAK it and the anubias. They just don't fit what I want to do with this tank.


Still cloudy. I'll probably run some carbon in a few days to help clear the water.


IMG_7032 by iadubber, on Flickr
 
#28 ·
I added turquoise rainbows, they are going already, I just don't like them in this size tank. I didn't mind them when I had some in a 55 last year. My LFS is trading me for them as well as the cory cats I just got. They are digging up my DHG and my substrate altogether and making my water cloudy.
 
#29 ·
If you want rainbow fish I would stick to any of the blue-eye rainbow fish species. They stay small (3-5cm) while still having some color. Pseudomugil gertrudae are mostly white but they have yellow top on their pectoral fins so they look like air traffic controllers. Other location varieties like P. gertrudae "ARU II" are much more colorful, with more oranges and yellows. Otherwise the smallest of the similar shaped rainbow fish would be a Melanotaenia praecox (Dwarf Neon Rainbow) which grows to be 6cm long.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Similar shaped rainbow fish would be a Melanotaenia praecox (Dwarf Neon Rainbow)
I had the Dwarf Neon in my 29G. It was just barely enough room for them, for they are fast swimmers.

I think threadfin rainbow would work in the 20G. For minimum size tank for them is a 10G.

So you had those rainbow in a 55G last year. Did you downgrade to a 20G long? Why did you go from 55G to 20G?
 
#34 ·
Came home with two more female guppies so now a total of three females and one male. Also 3 more neon tetras. I like the look of the tank alot better now that the cories and rainbows are out of it.

Also hooked up my 2213 tonight. It's working like a charm so far.
 
#35 ·
Not much to update.

I have some runners of Jungle val. My needle leaf ludwigia melted in just a few days. No noticeable growth of the crypt, DHG, or microsword.

FTS: 11/28/2012 (Still have my ACs on there. I'll probably take them out this weekend. I already put the bio from the ACs into the Eheim 2213. I also plan to move the heater to one of the ends and not on the back wall.


IMG_7187 by iadubber, on Flickr

Couple more shots: I need to invest in a macro lens, I hate using generic extension tubes.


IMG_7194 by iadubber, on Flickr


IMG_7233 by iadubber, on Flickr
 
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