180P build - Page 29 - The Planted Tank Forum

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post #421 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 11:06 AM
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you could always go to the hardware store and get adapters to go from the large hose to smaller hose and back up again.
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post #422 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 01:31 PM
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just finished reading the whole thread and I must say, awesome job on everything pugbrain.

Now if only I could grow plants like you do.....
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post #423 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by swoof View Post
you could always go to the hardware store and get adapters to go from the large hose to smaller hose and back up again.
Once you restrict the hose size you really reduce the overall flow. I put a heater inside the tank for now.
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just finished reading the whole thread and I must say, awesome job on everything pugbrain.

Now if only I could grow plants like you do.....
"Pugbrain"?? That's a combination of of Plantbrain and Pugman. Funny
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post #424 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 04:14 PM
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hahaha..my bad....pugman....
have high regards for the both of you guys...
having the resources and the guts to go all out
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post #425 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Like I said earlier I had to ditch the Hydor inline heaters. Ehiems 300 watt heaters claim to heat up to 260 gallons so I could get away with one of them. I really didn't want to see it in the aquarium so I made this.
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post #426 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugman View Post
Like I said earlier I had to ditch the Hydor inline heaters. Ehiems 300 watt heaters claim to heat up to 260 gallons so I could get away with one of them. I really didn't want to see it in the aquarium so I made this.
Seems a larger 500-800 Watt Titanium heater would handle the seals better without breakage and provide ample wattage for heating.
The issue is not bad during spring/summer/Fall, but during winter and AFTER water changes if the temps are a different(lower), this will place alot of current and demand on the heater for a few hours after the water change, this easily can fry heaters.

You can also T off this set up and add a 2nd heater.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #427 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Seems a larger 500-800 Watt Titanium heater would handle the seals better without breakage and provide ample wattage for heating.
The issue is not bad during spring/summer/Fall, but during winter and AFTER water changes if the temps are a different(lower), this will place alot of current and demand on the heater for a few hours after the water change, this easily can fry heaters.

You can also T off this set up and add a 2nd heater.
The tank is 170 gallons and he heater is rated far beyond that. I have never seen a heater over 300 watts that has lasted very long. I personally have gone through a dozen high wattage heaters and everyone crapped out regardless of the brand. Also titanium heaters are not very efficient compared to glass. I always make the water temp a little warmer upon returning into the tank. If I start burning out heaters il just run two of these like you said.

Last edited by Pugman; 04-24-2013 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Spelling
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post #428 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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I had some cyanoacrylate glue in my refrigerator left over from my reef tank and thought of " fragging" some moss. I have noticed that when I break up the mini pella it does grow a little faster. The pieces I have currently are growing into little mound shapes and I'd like to see it grow more uniformly flat. So I pulled out some pieces that were on the floor and growing in odd place and went for an experiment. I'll post the progress as it folds out.
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post #429 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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This is what I got from just that little bit. I could of thinned it out quit a bit more but there was already an amazing amount form what I had.
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post #430 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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And finally this is what it looks like place. I should of took a before pic of that area but you get the idea.
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post #431 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugman View Post
Like I said earlier I had to ditch the Hydor inline heaters. Ehiems 300 watt heaters claim to heat up to 260 gallons so I could get away with one of them. I really didn't want to see it in the aquarium so I made this.
Do you run this on a controller?

Mr. Aqua 30cm cube journal
20L high tech journal
Fluval EDGE slightly modded, low tech
3+ gallon (40 x 16 x 20.5 cm) aquatic soil, low-tech
Fluval spec V (sitting in a box)
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post #432 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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No I don't. I was thinking of drilling a hole in it to view the indicator light.
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post #433 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 03:27 PM
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Eheim claims that, but it's not been my experience, also, you need more heater if you use a wet/dry and/or an open top, there's more transfer or warmer water out.

They are good heaters, but I'd add another if you are pushing above 82F.
This is a non issue right now and till maybe Nov.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #434 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbrain View Post
Eheim claims that, but it's not been my experience, also, you need more heater if you use a wet/dry and/or an open top, there's more transfer or warmer water out.

They are good heaters, but I'd add another if you are pushing above 82F.
This is a non issue right now and till maybe Nov.
Ehiem rates their 300 Watt heater at 159-300 gallons. What would your experience rate it at?
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post #435 of 441 (permalink) Old 04-26-2013, 03:26 AM
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Ehiem rates their 300 Watt heater at 159-300 gallons. What would your experience rate it at?
Toasted one on my 180.

I use 2 - 300 watters these days, one frys, I have a back up till the new one shows up. They are titaniums, but I had Ehiem's in there, they have long been my preferred heater.

If you need to raise the temp say 15 F, vs say 4 F, BIG difference, so ambient temps make a large difference in how you rate things, same issue and even more so with chillers and pull down temp requirements.

It's 68F in the winter at our place and the temp is 84F in the 180 due to the cards......open top, wet/dry filter......

This is the Largest electrical cost for most aquarist also, (heating all that water). Sometimes if you have a few tanks, heating one room is cheaper.

So I rate them depending on the pull up temperature. 300 Gallons? Sure, if the temp is only a few degrees different. 100 Gallon in a cold room? Likely okay.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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