You are right, a little pricey. I was actually thinking of the buildmyled.com fixture with a dimmer for a 40b/ high tech/ CO2 tank I want to setup.
Have you used the Finnex Ray2 on any of your 20Ls yet? I know you commented at one point about it being a repackaged 24" fixture.
I have empty 20L tanks and 30" Finnex Ray2 fixtures. If you only have a concern about light spread I could probably toss one on and take a look at it. I obviously wouldn't be able to vouch for the growth rates (though with such a short tank the Ray2 should be tossing in significant amount of light).
Somewhatshocked: I think that a short tank like a 20L is probably the only situation where the Aqueon modular LED would provide truly sufficient lighting.
I have a 30" fixture with three daylight strips over a 29G low tech tank but it hasn't been running long enough to learn much. I mostly have floating plants in it anyways so I wouldn't be able to vouch for the amount of growth at the substrate.
madness: I think you're right. Since the fixture will only be about ten inches or so from the substrate, I'm thinking a Colormax and two Daylights will suffice, maybe? Since it's just going to be Anubias nana (which are already so big they'll take up half the tank) and some moss.
It's probably the route I'm going to go so I don't have to spend a bunch of cash on this tank. Need to introduce some new Taiwan Bee blood to my existing lines and the extra dollars saved will go a long way toward that goal.
Bought a clip-on LED desk lap at Lowes earlier to go over the breeder box. It's actually about 5000K in color temperature, which is surprising. 24 1.4w diodes, cheapy brushed stainless steel. A ton of light.
Unfortunately, my MacBook Pro has gone to Appleland for a week or repair and I'm limited to my iPad. Will only be posting updated photos if I get the wild hair to use an FTP client on the iPad. Suffice it to say: the breeder box now looks really cool!
All of those fixtures were on separate tanks. There's more than one tank here in the thread. There are currently Coralife fixtures on my tanks. The new one included. Will likely used an Aqueon Modular fixture I've got on-hand, though.
I wouldn't use an AC20 on a 20 gallon tank. AC50 at a minimum but ideally AC70 (which is what I'm using on the new tank) or AC110.
Fugeray = algae farm without raising it or using CO2. You'll definitely want to check things out in the lighting forum.
You can use any kind of filtration you desire as long as it's able to process the amount of water your tank holds and can handle the population of livestock you've got in the tank. Sponges, HOBs, canisters. It's up to you, your wallet and what works best in a particular situation.
Ha! Thanks. The tank is hidden away in my tank room, so I try to keep all sides and part of the front covered in algae when possible. It's become a tank where I chuck in whatever plant that needs to be cleaned up by the Amanos in there and whatever extra moss I've got - which inevitably gets eaten by the healthy (evil) scud population.
I've got a Canon T3i. Just so much more convenient to pull the old iPhone out of my pocket to snap a few photos. In fact, I don't think I've even taken my newest macro lens out of the original packaging... That's some real laziness, I admit. Shameful, in fact.
These T5NO fixtures raise the tank temperature about four degrees. When it's hotter than you-know-what outside and sticky humid, it gets tough to cool things down unless I remove the tops/add fans. Or crank up the AC. As I've transitioned away from T5s the electricity bill has dropped about $30. Was running a lot of them and have a few more fixtures to leave in the dust. In total, switching to more efficient tank equipment has allowed me to drop electric costs by about $50 on a monthly basis.
Just about any LED fixture I've used has had little to no impact on tank temperature, which is a plus for shrimp and cool water species. Huge cut in electrical costs. The less power I use, the more quickly I can fully convert to solar. Almost there.