120 Gallon ADA "like", ditched, Dutch style new pics 137 - Page 119 - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1771 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-07-2013, 04:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ThatGuyWithTheFish View Post
No no no, I didn't just get it I just trimmed it. They're growing very well except for the bottoms, which have done nothing so far (except maybe throw out a couple of aerial roots).
I think it does best with a little current and ample light from the side(eg a wide spread of lights above).

Regards,
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post #1772 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-12-2013, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Some sections are progressing well, still waiting for some plants for that front section.
The Mic umbrosum monte carlo is growing even if I had one tiny sprig to start. A single sprig of E hydropiper also made it.

Mini pellia is growing in on a few pieces of the wood nicely. I'll tie some more on today.
I much prefer the look of this compared to Fissidens which can get a bit weedy and frags everywhere.

I'm okay with the Rotala macrandra now where it's at, I resisted placing it there for a long long time.
It's relatively manageable in this location also.

UG is always happiest in this far corner.

I'm not entirely happy with the color development of the L acruata, but it's shaded by the main wood and the other Myrio behind it.
I might remove it and then allow the mini butter fly to arc around the back side of the wood over to that location. People by that plant, they do not buy L arcuata really.

I topped 90% of the L senegalensis this time instead of uprooting. Then replanted the tops. Does not give quite as nice look while those tops grow back and the bottoms resprout.
But I'll have a pretty dense even growth after wards. When I topped and replanted only fresh tops, the plants grew much faster also. But I did not get a lot of production for sale....and it's more work.

I'll uproot and replant the Downoi in a week or so, this will clean that spot up some and make it more even/uniform.










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post #1773 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-13-2013, 08:13 PM
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Very nicely done here.

Thanks for sharing the journey and your insights.
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post #1774 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-13-2013, 08:28 PM
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Hey Tom, sorry if you've answered this question before but how do you deal with the aquasoil sediment, especially if you're uprooting plants quite often? do you siphon as you uproot?
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post #1775 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-13-2013, 11:26 PM
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hey tom! amazing tank as usual!

i noticed that you don't have a co2 indicator in the photos. how are you measuring your co2 levels?

also i came across your old post and loved what you said but have a question about it.

11/29/11
"I've changed Nothing really, just that SOB overflow screwed my CO2 to Hades. Ferts/light/sediment, all the same, but a massive difference in the end result. The CPR prefilter was 10X better choice for the tank.
Just a minor issue with CO2 makes all the difference.

I nag all the time about this, but when you can carefully measure the light and adjust it to within 1-2 umol and the ferts/sediment are the same, tap water and care all, the same, you really end up with only one variable.

And if you target that before you add fish/shrimp etc and use the plants as a good indicator....then you have the turkey cooked good.
"

so how does one begin to even target the right balance of light? and then co2?
can i ask how many hours your lights are on daily?

thank you!
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post #1776 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-13-2013, 11:42 PM
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Wow UG is looking sexy. may I know how often you trim the UG? Plus can the trimming be replanted on an emerged setup? I'm not sure because the trimming is only leafs.
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post #1777 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by IWANNAGOFAST View Post
Hey Tom, sorry if you've answered this question before but how do you deal with the aquasoil sediment, especially if you're uprooting plants quite often? do you siphon as you uproot?
I do a water change after the trim/uprooting.

Regards,
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post #1778 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 04:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gnod View Post
hey tom! amazing tank as usual!

i noticed that you don't have a co2 indicator in the photos. how are you measuring your co2 levels?

also i came across your old post and loved what you said but have a question about it.

11/29/11
"I've changed Nothing really, just that SOB overflow screwed my CO2 to Hades. Ferts/light/sediment, all the same, but a massive difference in the end result. The CPR prefilter was 10X better choice for the tank.
Just a minor issue with CO2 makes all the difference.

I nag all the time about this, but when you can carefully measure the light and adjust it to within 1-2 umol and the ferts/sediment are the same, tap water and care all, the same, you really end up with only one variable.

And if you target that before you add fish/shrimp etc and use the plants as a good indicator....then you have the turkey cooked good.
"

so how does one begin to even target the right balance of light? and then co2?
can i ask how many hours your lights are on daily?

thank you!
You mean a drop checker? I do not use them, hate them.
I've got a few different methods to measure CO2, mostly pH and KH and then some other test to see if there's any non carbonate KH in the tap water.
Then apply the pH/KH chart. Then I've made some known CO2 solutions in a sealed flask. This way I can check to confirm my methods.

No one else seems to bother doing that step. A couple have suggested it using paint ball 12 gram CO2 cartridges, but can you see someone trying to add all that gas into solution into a flask that's sealed without loss?
Know weight of gas etc, but really really hard to dose and dissolve into the water without loss. I think they said it just to BS me, I tried it and it was PITA and would break the glass flask etc.

I use the carts for re inflating bike tires, so I have plenty.

I used dry Ice, frozen CO2 gas.
I'm quick between sealing it into a known solution(KH reference DI water mix) and the tank water (KH measured). Since we have a known volume of water and known weight and one case a known KH made entirely from carbonates and DI water, we have the mg/l or ppms.

If the pH/KH match up, then we know the KH is all carbonate and we can use the chart.

If not, we can make adjustments to account for the pH difference.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #1779 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gnod View Post
h
I nag all the time about this, but when you can carefully measure the light and adjust it to within 1-2 umol and the ferts/sediment are the same, tap water and care all, the same, you really end up with only one variable.

And if you target that before you add fish/shrimp etc and use the plants as a good indicator....then you have the turkey cooked good.
"

so how does one begin to even target the right balance of light? and then co2?
can i ask how many hours your lights are on daily?

thank you!
I use a light meter, Hoppy has an estimative index of light based on distance and lighting types, plenty of data to come pretty close for a lot of lighting types/set ups with a light meter. This will give you a good range and compare to other folk's light values.

Then you just work on CO2, CO2 is not as simple as it seems, it'll burn every and anyone. By far the most dangerous and hardest thing to master.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #1780 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 02:15 PM
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I use a light meter, Hoppy has an estimative index of light based on distance and lighting types, plenty of data to come pretty close for a lot of lighting types/set ups with a light meter. This will give you a good range and compare to other folk's light values.

Then you just work on CO2, CO2 is not as simple as it seems, it'll burn every and anyone. By far the most dangerous and hardest thing to master.
yep, i read hoppy's thread here and estimate that my light is med-high considering it's height and bulb position.

so knowing that, i guess my only other variable is to control the length of my light's timing and co2 levels?

how many hours did you leave your lights on to start off with? i'm assuming you adjusted it as you went on to balance your co2 levels along with plant growth, yes?

you don't have to go into it but your co2 drop checker explanation went completely over my head.. haha -_-
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post #1781 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Bottom line, CO2 drop checkers suck eggs.

People rely and make way too many assumptions about them and their CO2 ppm's. Way way way too much.

Did I say way too much?

Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #1782 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 06:20 PM
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Bottom line, CO2 drop checkers suck eggs.

People rely and make way too many assumptions about them and their CO2 ppm's. Way way way too much.

Did I say way too much?

Hmmmm ..........
CO2 measurements using an in situ CO2 meter

any updates on how that meter worked for you and it's accuracy ? I would love to have a digital Co2 meter on my over the top set-up.
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post #1783 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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It works fairly well, but no better than the other methods I've suggested. If you can account for any KH differences between a reference and the tank, then you should be good to go with the pH meter and a good KH test method/meter and then use the chart.

For 2000-3000$, I'll stick with the method I have.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #1784 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 07:45 PM
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For 2000-3000$, I'll stick with the method I have.
..... never mind.

I plan on running reconstituted RO/DI water anyway, so I will know exactly what my KH is.
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post #1785 of 2268 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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..... never mind.

I plan on running reconstituted RO/DI water anyway, so I will know exactly what my KH is.
If it's 100% recon, then use the pH meter and measure the KH as best you can, eg Lamotte alk or a KH reference and meter, eg a Hanna etc.

Then apply the chart. That should give you 99%. Allow the pH to stabilize for 30-60 seconds.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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