Getting Dirty with a 10 Gallon - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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GSA and... Planaria?

So, in addition to the GSA that's starting to pop-up I've notice these tiny white-translucent worms on the glass... they're really tiny, less than half a centimeter.

After doing some research, everytime "tiny worms" are mentioned, the response is planaria; this is followed by feed less. Well, I have only a single oto so I don't put any fish food in the tank.

So, anyone have some advice or insight on these might be... I can try to get a pic but they're so small and I only have a cell phone cam so it'll be a challenge.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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Well the worms are too small to be picked up by my cell phone with full zoom and holding the camera against the glass. but they're like 2 mm in length tops.

I could really use some feedback from folks with more experience than I have.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 05:42 AM
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Hi all, so the oto and apples snails made quick work of the diatoms but now I see some GSA popping up.

I'm pretty sure that its just because the tank hasn't balanced yet
What are your nitrates? KNO3, potassium nitrate would help if low. Liquid form is Seachem nitrogen. Powdered KNO3 can be bought here.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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I'm fairly sure my nitrates are low, next to zero. I have a single oto and some snails so the bioload is real low.

I still need to calibrate my test kit. But I can't do that until I buy some KNO3 and since I need to buy that to calibrate my kit, I might as well utilize it for my tanks, lol.

I have started dosing fleet's to raise the phosphates as GSA is a common symptom of low phosphates. I've dosed twice so far using a 3x/week routine.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, been a while since I updated this and I wish I could say things were going swimmingly (hehe).

My current lighting is 2 23W 6500K CFL's 19 in above substrate; 8 hrs with 4 hour siesta.
0 ammonia
0 nitrite
5 ppm nitrate

The tank has mostly fishless until a few days ago. I now have a couple SAE's, 5 cherry barbs and 6 black neons so I expect the nitrate to be going up over fairly soon.

I dose 1 mL excel strength glut daily and for the past week I've been dosing trace elements according PPSpro dosages. My Hydrocoytle has been showing signs of Fe deficiency.

Most importantly is I'm battling major BBA again. Today I cut off nearly all my anubias leaves and quite a few crypt leaves and Pygmy chain sword leaves.

I have to get this under control... my 5 gallon and 1 gal are doing awesome but this 10 gallon has been a real challenge.

The nearest thing I can figure is my CO2 to lighting is off balance, which then exacerbated my lower nitrate issue.

According to Hoppy's latest article at Aqua Botonic my lighting is higher than the recommended PAR range of 20-30 with a PAR of ~38



So, I have a couple choices... I can replace the bulbs with 20W bulbs which would put me just above the high end of the range or I can use 15W bulbs which would put me closer to mid-range ~24 PAR.

I can't raise my lights more than a couple inches without replacing the conduit raisers but I can lower it (which better supports the lower wattage).

Additionally I'm on day two of double dosing excel.

So, what do you all think?
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 05:27 AM
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Most importantly is I'm battling major BBA again.

The nearest thing I can figure is my CO2 to lighting is off balance, which then exacerbated my lower nitrate issue.
How about trying lights on 4hrs/ off 2hrs/ on 4hrs with 15 watt bulbs?

Is there anyway you can improve the circulation?
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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How about trying lights on 4hrs/ off 2hrs/ on 4hrs with 15 watt bulbs?

Is there anyway you can improve the circulation?


I really think switching out to the 15W bulbs should help significantly.

Is there a rationale in using a 2 hr. siesta over 4?

As far as circulation goes I already have HoB and 100gph submersible pump, so I don't think circulation is a problem.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-03-2011, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Update: Added the fish 7 days ago and my nitrates are going down and more green algae (along with the existing BBA is going up.)

NH3/4 and NO2 are both 0. NO3 less than 5 ppm.

Is it common that ferts are necessary in a soil-based low light tank?
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-03-2011, 12:59 AM
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My nitrates are going down and more green algae (along with the existing BBA is going up.)

NH3/4 and NO2 are both 0. NO3 less than 5 ppm.
I had a similar problem. Account to city water with very little minerals. NO3 low and had BBA. After I accidentally over fed my fish the nitrates went up. Then they went above 20. The BBA disappeared but started having string algae. That I got under control with water changes and decreasing feedings.

Nitrates best 10 - 20 ppm

Last edited by Hilde; 01-10-2012 at 03:56 PM.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-04-2011, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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My stems are rotting...

so I'm starting to increase water changes to control the organics and I'm now noticing that the L. Repens stems are rotting just above the substrate.

Any ideas what might be causing this?
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 03:54 PM
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I'm now noticing that the L. Repens stems are rotting just above the substrate.
I just remembered that I had a similar problem. I put organic charcoal chips under them and they started growing. An alternative to this would be API root tabs.

Are they still living?
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