Decided to make some adjustments to the tank this week. I got rid of the glass diffuser and built my own external inline co2 reactor, and I have to say- I'm very glad that I did. The project was a complete success and cost not even $20. I also got rid of my bubble counter because it is now made obsolete with this new reactor design.
The hardest part about building this reactor was finding the right place to get the parts for it in New York City. Home Depot was not the store to go to. I went back to Chinatown and the plastic store on Canal and picked up some 1.5" acrylic tube for $3 and then went to 200 Supply Corporation on Elizabeth street to pick up the fitting for the tube. The acrylic tube I purchased does not match up to a standard PVC pipe so outside the box thinking needed to be done. I ended up with two 1.5" x .5" bushing that I fit onto a threaded coupling reducer which I modified with a knife and sheer will power and silicone glue to fit the acrylic tube. I wanted a clear reactor and was determined to make it work. I did. I was going to use brass fitting and a tap for the tube but decided otherwise because of possible copper leaching into the aquarium. Better safe than sorry. I ended up using two .5'' x .5" nylon barbs for the inflow and outflow connection for the reactor. It took a little tweaking for the tubes to fit from the eheim 2211. That filter has an outflow of 3/8 and an inflow tubing of 1/2". Luckily I had a nylon reducer to connect the different size tubings to accommodate the reactor's inflow connection. I just had to reconfigure the lengths of my inflow and outflow hose for my lily pipe connections. I tapped the co2 directly into the reactor using the just the airline tube and some silicone to be on the safe side. But enough rambling, here are some pics:
CUT THE 12" ACRYLIC TUBING TO 10"
SILICONED THE FITTINGS (AFTER GLUING THEM TOGETHER WITH PVC CEMENT) TO THE ACRYLIC TUBE, HAD A BEER AND WAITED 24HRS FOR THE SILICONE TO FULLY CURE. *also be sure to use teflon tape when connecting the barbs to the bushings.
THE NEXT DAY, TOOK OUT THE TOOLS AND GOT TO WORK CONNECTING IT.
LOOPED THE AIRLINE TUBING AND INSTALLED TWO CHECK VALVES JUST TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE
THIS CHECK VALVE WAS FROM MY DIY BUBBLE COUNTER THAT I HAD GLUED WITH SOLAREZ TO A SYRINGE. THE LAST LINE OF DEFENSE TO THE REGULATOR AND POSSIBLE FLOODING
SECURED IT TO MY WALL USING SCREWS AND A HEAVY GAUGE METAL WIRE TO HOLD IT IN PLACE ON TOP AND TWO SCREWS ON THE BOTTOM TO KEEP IT PERPENDICULAR TO THE FLOOR
PUT THE BOARD GAMES BACK ON THE SHELF TO MASK THE FILTER, AND FIT EVERYTHING SNUGGLY IN THE CORNER AND OUT OF SIGHT
MOVED THE DROP CHECKER TO THE OPENING ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE TANK WHERE THE DIFFUSER AND AIRLINE TUBING USED TO BE. LOVE THIS DROP CHECKER THAT I MADE BY THE WAY. WORKS SO GOOD, VERY CLEAN AND DOES NOT OBSTRUCT YOUR VIEW WHEN LOOKING INTO THE AQUARIUM
TANK SHOT WITH THE EXTERNAL DROP CHECKER.
IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED, I CAN MAKE YOU A DROP CHECKER FOR YOUR TANK. JUST SEND ME A PM
AND THE PARTING SHOT OF MY DIY ACRYLIC PIPES THAT I MADE WORKING BETTER THAN THE GLASS ONES I PURCHASED. VORTEX IN ACTION
I have to say that this project was a success. No leaks, no noise, no bubbles, excellent co2 diffusion and happy fish and plants and hobbyist. Making your own stuff is so much more rewarding than anything else in this hobby. I highly recommend you make one of your own for those that are interested. I'm currently running mine at 1 bubble every 2 seconds but may increase it slowly seeing how the fauna adapt. Very efficient and a very satisfying addition.