Cycling is almost done. I've lost a lot of the grass (Cypris Helfari).
The Fishless Cycling started last Tuesday and is nearly complete. It works like a charm and much better than having to wait 4 to 6 weeks for traditional cycling. However, I should have removed my Cypris Helferia (grass) from the tank for the cycling. It is a very sensitive plant and really suffered 4 days in process. I had to cut back the plant from 15"+ to 4" and we will see if it comes back. Also have a few leaves from my Anubias suffer, but the rest are fine. The mosses are coming back slowly. All expected for a brand new tank start up.
So here are some of the results:
-First day of cycling...brought Ammonia levels up to about 4-5 ppm (doesn't have to be perfect). N02 and NO3 readings zero. Ph spiked from 7.2 up to 8.8. NOTE: Nitrites require higher PH above 7.2 to convert Ammonia. I don't like it this high, but it will level out.
- Day 2 dosed a little more Ammonia keeping it at level around 5 pmm;
- Day 3 started seeing very slight signs of Nitrite (N02) so stopped ammonia dosing.
- Day 4 NO2 now clearly climbing from .25 to .5 ppm, ammonia leveling out about 2.5-3 pmm
- Day 5 NO2 starting to spike 2 ppm and NO3 Nitrate levels appearing. Ammonia about 1.5 pmm
- Day 6 NO2 over 5+ and NO3 high at 80 pmm and ammonia levels steady at 1+ pmm. Conducted partial water change. Need to see NO2 and ammonia levels start dropping.
I have my Rummy Nose Tetra shipment arriving this week at LFS. They will acclimate them first and provide me 50 of the strongest lot by this weekend. Will place order for two (pair) of Germany Blue Rams.
I've also decided to Test, Dwarf Water Lettuce. We will see. Objective is to have 30 plants across the front of the tank, to provide areas of shading and effect with root system. Supposedly the Dwarf or mini species are easier to manage in aquarium, root systems are still large enough and can handle being under a lid or tight space within closed aquarium. I plan on have one filter breaking water surface for oxygenation. The space I plan on leaving is approximately 1/4" ( not a lot). The filter providing surface agitation and aeration is not the same spray bar delivering defused C02.
Note: I also decided to change the water flow direction. I had spray bars mounted in the back, spraying forward, and both providing surface agitation. I did not like the water circulation balance or the fact my CO2 delivery was possibly loosing out with water agitation. So now I have both spray bars mounted to the sides of the tank. The Left is the stronger of the two (higher GPH) and is pointing straight down. Forcing water down, across bottom and up the opposite side. This should distribute diffused CO2 better and provide less current mid tank where Discus like to hang out. The other spray bar breaks the surface, shoots water off top of tank and creates current across the top of the tank lengthwise. This provides the necessary oxygenation both plants and fish require, however lower GPH does not provide to much current to effect mid or upper levels of aquarium.