Doc7's Low Tech 40 Breeder - The Planted Tank Forum
 5Likes
  • 4 Post By Doc7
  • 1 Post By Doc7
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Central VA
Posts: 544
Doc7's Low Tech 40 Breeder

I had a tank on here several years ago that was a high tech 40B. This time around it will be low tech because now I am married and have a child and made some time commitment promises regarding the new tank.

Lighting is two Finnex Stingrays. I have them set up for a 7 hour concurrent photo period now, but I may try other plans such as maybe having each one on for 4 hours with only a one hour overlap or something like that, because I need to light the whole tank but not necessarily full strength the whole time. Time will tell!

I am using Tapatalk, so hopefully photos work properly. I have plants from at least two For Sale ads in this forum coming this week including 100 stems of Hygrophilia Corymbosa, two species of crypts, and Stauro Porto Velho. I am hoping this will sufficiently pack the tank initially.

I finished my DIY stand earlier this week, put the tank on it Thursday evening and filled it Friday.

It has 40 Lbs of Saf T Sorb substrate, and a stand I built myself. Well water comes out of the tap at 0 KH 0 GH and I am dosing baking soda and equilibrium to get about 5/5. The STS will strip KH for a few weeks presumably so I will monitor every day or so and add a half tsp as needed.

I will be dosing ferts per the Tom Barr low tech non CO2 method; weekly additions of KNO3, KH2PO4, and Equilibrium.

My driftwood has not yet shipped and no idea on ETA (manzanita-driftwood.com) so when I do my initial planting later this week I will leave plenty of room for driftwood.

I will be stocking, I think :
6 Amano
6 Otos
18 Rummynose Tetra (maybe cardinal tetra instead)
1 or 2 Bolivian Ram
1 Pearl Gourami, if and only if I can establish floating plants that work with my filtration and I find the floating plants manageable and attractive.

Filtration is an Eheim 2217 with an inline heater, fluval-style skinner intake, and spray painted black all in-tank equipment.

Temps at 79F.


40 Breeder Journal
Eheim Pimp Club - Member 468 (2217)
Doc7 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 06:46 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Seattle_Aquarist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 4,187
Hi Doc7,

Nice start!

I have a couple of comments,

"Well water comes out of the tap at 0 KH 0 GH" is your home on a water softener? I don't believe I know of any wells where the water comes out that soft. If it is really that soft you will need to add Equilibrium / GH Booster to get the dGH up to about 5.0 and the STS will drop the dGH substantially for several weeks due to the high CEC value of the substrate. If you have a water softener, check out some of the posts here on the forum about possible issues.

" I will be dosing ferts per the Tom Barr low tech non CO2 method; weekly additions of KNO3, KH2PO4, and Equilibrium." - with two LED fixtures (depending upon PAR) the output may exceed what qualifies as 'low light / low tech' - watch for nutrient deficiencies and algae issues.

Subscribed.

Roy
75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1XFluval F&P 2.0 48"/59W, 2X Marineland 350 Magnum filters; 45 Gallon Tall, 96Watt AH Supply CF 6700K, 1X Marineland 350 Magnum filter; 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0 36"/46W, Marineland C-220 filter; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED kit, Marineland C-160 filter; all with Press. CO2 and (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
Greater Seattle Aquarium Society (GSAS)

Seattle_Aquarist is offline  
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Central VA
Posts: 544
Doc7's Low Tech 40 Breeder

Thanks. I have no water softener. Yes as I stated in the original I am using baking soda and equilibrium to get to 5 KH 5 GH and will test frequently (24-48 hours) until the STS stops stripping KH.



I think the Stingray is on the very low PAR end of lights and talked a bit with a poster named Michael (on the other big planted tank forum) who uses two of these fixtures on his 40B with no ferts and it looks great. However, his is a Walstad setup so a ton more nutrients in the substrate. He uses a 5/3/5 siesta schedule in his tank. I will definitely keep an eye out for algae and may incorporate a siesta or, more likely, splitting my light timers up. If I had each light on for 4 hours or 5/6 with only an overlap of a short period in the middle, it would give each half (front half, back half - 40B is 18" front to back) lighting for the plants but probably cut down on algae.



What do you think about having each light on for 5 hours with 2 hours of overlap (so it is 3 hours back only, 2 hours all, 3 hours front only)? Or should I start with the straight 7 and work from there?

40 Breeder Journal
Eheim Pimp Club - Member 468 (2217)
Doc7 is online now  
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:38 AM
Planted Member
 
Cmeister's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maple Town
Posts: 294
Try your 5/2/5 lighting approach and let us know - until then, more photos :-)
Cmeister is offline  
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:42 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Seattle_Aquarist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 4,187
Hi Doc7,

If I am looking at the correct Finnex model then each unit should provide about PAR@33 at a 15" depth; two fixtures will provide about PAR@66 - probably well into the "medium light" range. Depending upon your plant species (after all they determine the amount of light needed) and how densely you plant the tank the 3-2-3 photoperiod may work but I would certainly not start with that long a period. I have found that when I start a new tank, and the nitrogen cycle is just beginning, that I can experience a lot of algae with a long photoperiod. Algae seems to thrive especially during the ammonia and nitrite part of the nitrogen cycle. I would recommend starting with an abbreviated photoperiod - maybe 2-1-2 (five hourrs total) or even less. Gradually, over several weeks as the ammonia and nitrite levels drop to "0" and the nitrate level stabilizes, you can increase the photoperiod - I usually increase the photoperiod by 1/2 hour per week until algae becomes an issue then I back down.

Hope this helps!

Roy
75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1XFluval F&P 2.0 48"/59W, 2X Marineland 350 Magnum filters; 45 Gallon Tall, 96Watt AH Supply CF 6700K, 1X Marineland 350 Magnum filter; 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0 36"/46W, Marineland C-220 filter; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED kit, Marineland C-160 filter; all with Press. CO2 and (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
Greater Seattle Aquarium Society (GSAS)

Seattle_Aquarist is offline  
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Central VA
Posts: 544
I have a PAR meter on loan being sent to me this week so I will post some data that will help others and myself in this situation in the future.

For now, based in visual evidence alone, I will be going with my lights at one fixture 6" from front glass and one 6" from rear glass. This keeps it from being totally dark when only one or the other is on like they did at 4.5". My initial photoperiod will be 6 hours with a 1 hour overlap for "burst" - Rear light is on 4-730P, Front light from 630-10P.

I have no fish, no ammonia, and will buy fish after I see some initial growth from all my incoming stem plants. Not really sure how I will dose as the fish won't be there to produce waste from food so I may just dose the N P and K every 3rd day for right now.

Here is my stand's guts when I was gluing up one of the 3/4" ply sidewalls:



Here is what it looked like on my first fill after rinsing the STS 15 times for each quart of it (total approx 5 gallons).


BettaBettas likes this.

40 Breeder Journal
Eheim Pimp Club - Member 468 (2217)
Doc7 is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome