Like everyone else I hope to learn something everyday. (nice when its not painful LOL) Jadelin, your not the only one not trying to be antagonistic sorry if it's reading that way. Just trying to be as clear as possible and convey expensive (to me) information. I thought for years that without outward indication that fish were 'safe' after a couple of weeks too. Until I received those special order "selected best of my F1 stock" DDSV's. I always thought that treating healthy looking fish was foolish. Then I got bit and lost fish I'd had for years and yes I know they are just fish but I was attached. Two that I lost were 2 of the remaining 3 I kept from my first ever in house spawn.
Processing new arrivals into established systems requires some treatments with or without symptoms is where we are not on the same page. The pathogens are not rare and 45 days is 3 days over 2x life cycle not 2.5
(enough of that sorry)
The primary reasoning behind much of what I post regarding treatments is provided here and if I had been armed with this information before those DDSV's arrived my original population would not have been affected.
The following is written in reply by Charles Harrison, Ph.D. replying to a request for more information on treatments.
Flubendazole is indicated for Protozoa, Levamisole is indicated for Nematodes. Although Flubendazole is a broader treatment medication, it takes longer to work and is more messy to work with than Levamisole which is much more soluble.
Levamisole won't touch Protozoa or bacteria making it good for the tank Nitrogen cycle, etc.
5 grams of Levamisole treats 100 gallons and we could have saved all those fish last year with just a few grams of the stuff if I were more visible to people in need. Just how did you find me anyway?
I would like to make it easier for all.
With the volume of water you have and the fact that Nematodes are the most likely to sneak up on you, I would recommend 6 - 5 gram packs of Levamisole and 50 grams of Flubendazole 10%.
I will package 3 packs in one sealed bag and the
2 - 25 gram bottles of Flubendazole separately.
They will keep much longer that way and don't open them until needed.
I have ample supply so if you do run into a problem you can treat and write me back for more of what ever you need. I don't have any stock of Acriflavine at the moment.
2nd follow up received last night regarding hazards using Flubendazole treatments in a tank containing inverts.
Flubendazole will kill snails effectively.
As far as the rest of the life forms it remains unknown but I have not had a problem with a bacteria kill. On the other hand a lot of dead snails presents a problem with a bacteria bloom. Keep the water temperatures in the 70's when using it. Keep the tanks changed near 100% as possible. Yellow water can present a problem.
Prior to today I've post a couple of times with information regarding H2O2 treatments for algae, bacteria and how to protect established filter systems when doing so. All this came to me the hard way and sharing information that helps is what these forums are all about. (imo)
There really isn't much difference between Plop and drop, Plop (float the bag) drop (pour the fish in the tank) and 14 days. Whats listed above in this post along with H2O2 and or salt baths for those species that tolerate them is what will protect against the unwanted additions most of us are concerned with.
While several articles were WAY over my education level this linked one is straight forward.
Eradicating Hydra and Other Pests with Flubendazole
From: Journal of the American Killifish Association September/October 2003
Vol.36, No. 5
By Charles Harrison, Ph.D.